88 250 EFI 302 run problems
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From: St. Johns
88 250 EFI 302 run problems
posted a couple days ago about my truck not wanting to idle and when it does run after about 15 minutes loses throttle response and dies. I used a code puller finding that it was something with the EGR. When I went to replace the EGR noticed one of the vacuum was broken so I replaced the line and the truck idled for 30 minutes no problem. Next day drove it for 25 minutes didnt seem to have any problems. Later that day took it out again drove for about 20 minutes and it lost throttle response and doesnt want to idles for more than 3 minutes. I pulled codes again. Came up with 57o, 67o, and 31c. 57 says it's for cars only and the octane adjust circuit is grounded. 67 says it's the neutral position switch but I have a 5 speed manual thought that only pertained to automatics. 31 says it's the sensor in the EGR which I am figuring is the problem or atleast one of them. Does anyone know why I would throw 57 and 67 since they dont seem to pertain to my truck? Thanks for the help.
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From: Easton,Ks
The 67 just means that the A/C switch was on during the test.
The 57 says that you may have the wrong computer in the truck. Check your door post calibration number and see what computer number it needs to be and then check that number against the number on your computer.
The 31 indicates that the EGR valve was closed further than normal or EVP sensor or circuit has failed with an intermittent low voltage sometime during vehicle operation.
None of the codes above would cause your problem.
You might want to check or test the TPS.
The 57 says that you may have the wrong computer in the truck. Check your door post calibration number and see what computer number it needs to be and then check that number against the number on your computer.
The 31 indicates that the EGR valve was closed further than normal or EVP sensor or circuit has failed with an intermittent low voltage sometime during vehicle operation.
None of the codes above would cause your problem.
You might want to check or test the TPS.
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From: St. Johns
I bought a new TPS put it in and it turned the check engine light on and wouldn't idle at all, would start and die. Benched tested the old one and seemed to be fine. Put the old one back in would idle for 3 minutes and die but the check engine light turned off. Where are you reading your codes from? I'm reading them from the book that came with my OBD-1.
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From: Carbondale, PA
yea just make sure you take the sensor part off the top of the IAC. You dont want that getting wet. it should have 2 screws holding it on the top of the IAC.
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From: St. Johns
No it will still die even if I have my foot on the throttle. When I press the throttle it'll keep it running for maybe another second or two but still die. It'll idle high with a cold start like any other car but it'll drop down to where it normally idles when it warms up a little, idle fine like that then just start to act like it's not getting enough fuel, bog out and die.
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From: St. Johns
put a new MAP in and it idled for about 20 minutes. Shut it off came back 10 minutes later started it up didn't get 800 feet from my house and it died again. Ive checked the TPS it's fine. Vac tested the EGR and tested the sensor in it. The distributor cap rotor and fuel filter are all new. I just pulled the computer out of it to take a look inside. Can anyone give me any advice of whats going on????
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From: St. Johns
the fuel pressure is good I haven't stuck a gauge to it but when it shuts off I opened up the schrader valve on the fuel rail and fuel comes out like ol faithful. I checked all the wires and they were all good. The vac line off the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have any fuel in it or any signs of it so that would mean that was in check too. The coil was replaced about 2 months ago too.