Oil Change ???
The oil life indicator is about as accurate as the "miles to empty" meter on the fuel range. Meaning that it is a computed value that has a margin for error, the margin for error is unknown and varies.
I was advised to change it at 5K and every 5K after that. The dealership sales manager wants me to report to him on how many miles the computer lets me go on oil, so there is a little conflict there.
Additionally, I got the warning message to change the oil at about 7400 miles. The diesel tech forgot to reset the oil life thing. So, having new oil at 5K had no effect on the oil life monitor. This tells me that there is really no sensor of any kind analyzing the oil, it's just a mileage ticker and maybe a duty cycle checker.
Probably ok either way but it may depend on how you use your truck.
My wife's '08 CR-V has it, and at first it was VERY hard for me to trust it. I did lots of research, and everything I came up with stated that Honda knew what it was doing when it designed the system and to trust it. This thing goes ~12,000 miles between oil changes! I switched to full synthetic for my peace of mind but I have no problems trusting it now.
Remember that engine oil doesn't degrade at a fixed rate. How long oil is good for depends on dozens of different factors. Without a fancy computer to track it there's no good way to figure it out, so manufacturers figure an average number that will suit most people and include that in their normal service schedule. They then figure the most severe service the vehicle will see and estimate how many miles it will be good for in this application and call it a severe service maintenance schedule.
This system avoids the need for guessing, as the engine can monitor nearly every variable that can affect the engine oil wearing over time. I'm willing to bet the system is conservative, as Ford has 100,000 miles of responsibility of an engine that probably costs more than $10K to replace.
I'd trust it.
The 6.2L gas engines get the mileage ticker!
I am planning to do my first oil change this week, just shy of 2k miles, to get rid of any break-in related particulate. then I'll go 5k on the next one and send a sample out for testing. 7500 on the next, with another test. I won't be comfortable changing at 10k until I have put several gallons through the system and at least 20k on the clock. Even then, I will want an analysis. This method is based off of quite a bit of research, including advice from the more knowledgeable folks on this forum. The computer's reminder is great for letting you know when the "normal scheduled interval" has expired. I don't trust it farther than that.
BTW, I agree that Ford is conservative given their 100k warranty on this expensive engine. I also think that the schedule they list will be just fine for 100k, maybe even 150k. I want my engine to go 400k+
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after so many miles
after so many cold starts, and at what temperatures
after so many hours of idle time
how many times the oil temperature gets to a certain point
how many times the coolant temperature gets to a certain point
how many regens have been performed
how many times engine oil level went to a certain point
calculated fuel that has been burned
calculated driving style (light foot or heavy foot?,)
calculated engine load
Then the ECM is completely capable of calculating an oil change using this information. All this information is already there, or it could be there if the sensors and/or programming was there to do it.
I would say that a "good" oil monitor would be very possible. It is all a matter of how it works. If the ECM was just going off of mileage or engine hours, then the ECM was programmed to do just that, which would tell you that it would come on after so many miles hit on the ECM odometer count.
I know that most oil monitors out there use some of these things. AN most of them are tend to be more conservative, probably just for the reason stated in the previous posts.
If Ford indeed used at least half of these items to calculate an oil change, I think it would be decently correct. 5000 miles isn't a lot oil wear if it is used as a grocery getter. If it's used as a heavy tow vehicle, 5000 is the maximum I would run until oil change.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
There are three main keys to long engine life: proper lubrication, proper cooling, and good fuel. I really do intend to get 20-ish years out of this truck. not all will be as my daily driver, but it will haul my stuff for that long, if I take care of it. After 20k-ish miles, and a few rounds of oil analysis, I might be content with letting the computer tell me when to change it. Until then I intend to hedge my bets
The service guy is gonna tell you Yup every 5,000 miles needs to be changed. What do you want him to say? He wants your MONEY. Plain and simple.
YouTube - Tough, smart and green
Watch to the end.
Enough said!!
RELAX and ENJOY!!
BTW, Your Welcome,
Shane
You ought to have an oil analysis done to find out the true state of the oil. I'm not racking up as many miles as you and can't change the oil fast enough to do as many samples/tests as I'd like. Over time, I'll know how the oil is holding up but you have that opportunity now.
On another note, I received a comment from a senior Ford engineer regarding my little oil change video. In addition to finding it valuable as an "objective" source of info, he had the following comment on my oil change interval of 5,000 miles:
So it's clear he has a lot of confidence in the oil minder system and is telling me to give it a try. This is great as it will decrease the maintenance cost quite a bit over what I was planning. The only way to know for sure though is through oil analysis.
By the way gents, take a look at what he sent me. You know how I complained at the end of my oil change video about the twisted metal band dip stick? He said he was one of the voices advocating for the new cable-type dipsticks and helped implement them into the near-job 2 trucks. Read the tag closely. It's cool...

Add in the fact that he sent you one of the new dipsticks to address your concern... Ford is kicking **** in a major way right now. And it's not just the superduty truck.
If you really value your vehicle and intend to keep it to over 200,000 miles.
Follow this procedure:
Change oil AND FILTER with DINO ONLY at these mileages:
100 miles
250
500
1,000
2,500
5,000
Then once more with dino at 10,000
Then, switch to synthetic.
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I would also change the coolant out at 5,000 miles, or, add a coolant filter if you are doing heavy use.
Transmission:
Change filter at 5,000 miles
Then normal service.
Rear Differential: change after 1st year, then normal service.
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DO a really good break in --- alternating high output with a cooling cycle --- to seat the rings and so on, for the first 5,000 miles.
No 50 cent oil monitor sensor hooked up to a computer simulation software will tell you how much metal / casting sand / crud / and other stuff is sloughed off a brand new motor.
Auto manufactures have a vested interest in none of you doing this, because the impact is so much out --- 100,000 miles plus that it is beyond any warranty period they pay for.
They want your ride to wear out so you buy a new one.
Engine break in:
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Scroll down and look at the pistons in the pic --- difference between good vs. bad break in.
Yes it is a motorcycle.. but same principles.
Engine Break-In Controversy: Should You Ride it Like You Stole it, or Baby It?
Following is the method I used in the past (and am currently using on my new quad) to break in the engines.
Warm the engine up completely. Load the engine by opening and closing the throttle hard in as many gears as possible, alternating between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. Shut it off and let it cool. Check things out, loose nuts, oil etc.
Change your oil after the first hour or two of operation of the engine. That's when most of the burrs (small metal shavings) are taken off, and you dont' want that metal seating itself in the other components of the engine.
Read on
Warming up the engine completely is extremely important, even AFTER the break in period, especially if you're going to ride it hard.









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