Noisy on cold startup
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 1
From: St. Louis, Mo.
Noisy on cold startup
Hey all- I'm new here- I have a 2006 E-350 with the 5.4 motor. Runs great but on a cold startup in the morning, it sounds like tappet noise . After it runs for about 5-10 seconds it smooths out. I run 5w-20 per book & change oil every 3k since it was new. Dealer said this was normal for these engines. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Add 2X seafoam recommended in oil -- or more.
basically --- very high RPM, max engine load, high speed running...
Repeated for 10 to 30 miles...
The good old Italian tune-up, an afternoon with - CleanMPG Forums
basically --- very high RPM, max engine load, high speed running...
Repeated for 10 to 30 miles...
The good old Italian tune-up.
There's a time and place for everything. Even full-throttle, pressed back in the seat acceleration.
Thanks 99LeCouch now i know what to call it
I Live in central Missouri and I was opting for "RedNeck Tune-up"
Here is My version
Seriously folks,
If you know you need to change your oil this is a good time to blow the cob webs out of your car.
add a bottle of chevron with techron fuel injector cleaner on a near empty gas tank
then a good shot of *seafoam* carb cleaner to clean fuel injectors
and to loosen all of that old carbon build up in your intake manifold
*Note that the seafoam brand cleaner is invasive and can mess up your map sensors so use with caution BUT this stuff works Great!
clean out your K&n air filter or new air filter if needed
let your car idle until fully warmed up
then a good drive down a backside alley or country road at full throttle and watch the carbon build up --- smoke out the tail pipe
"james bond smoke sceen if yours is really bad"
I do a 5-10 mile run so that the catylitic converter has time to heat up and finish burning off the carbon particals that get sent down thru the exhust
and to make sure that there is no more old granny **** in my system
2 stops on the way home
stop by and fill up the gas tank so that the fuel cleaner you added is diluted back down to normal
stop by car wash and give your baby the cleaning she deserves
when you get home go ahead and finish cleaning your car giving it time to cool down
Now is the time to change your oil because that carbon build up you cleaned out of your intake manifold just made your oil dirty.
Since tune-up parts on my old civic are cheap i go ahead and change my spark plugs, fuel filter and pcv - then reboot my ecu and clean battery terminals
Clean windows, pick up all the trash in back seat that i did not throw out on the highway (thus loosing an extra 5-10 pounds of dead weight)
check all fluid levels and tire pressure
Now out for one more quick run aournd the block to make sure everything works
stop by and pick up a beer for when you get home
or
treat yourself to a cheeseburger and fries and your good to go.
There's a time and place for everything. Even full-throttle, pressed back in the seat acceleration.
Thanks 99LeCouch now i know what to call it
I Live in central Missouri and I was opting for "RedNeck Tune-up"
Here is My version
Seriously folks,
If you know you need to change your oil this is a good time to blow the cob webs out of your car.
add a bottle of chevron with techron fuel injector cleaner on a near empty gas tank
then a good shot of *seafoam* carb cleaner to clean fuel injectors
and to loosen all of that old carbon build up in your intake manifold
*Note that the seafoam brand cleaner is invasive and can mess up your map sensors so use with caution BUT this stuff works Great!
clean out your K&n air filter or new air filter if needed
let your car idle until fully warmed up
then a good drive down a backside alley or country road at full throttle and watch the carbon build up --- smoke out the tail pipe
"james bond smoke sceen if yours is really bad"
I do a 5-10 mile run so that the catylitic converter has time to heat up and finish burning off the carbon particals that get sent down thru the exhust
and to make sure that there is no more old granny **** in my system
2 stops on the way home
stop by and fill up the gas tank so that the fuel cleaner you added is diluted back down to normal
stop by car wash and give your baby the cleaning she deserves
when you get home go ahead and finish cleaning your car giving it time to cool down
Now is the time to change your oil because that carbon build up you cleaned out of your intake manifold just made your oil dirty.
Since tune-up parts on my old civic are cheap i go ahead and change my spark plugs, fuel filter and pcv - then reboot my ecu and clean battery terminals
Clean windows, pick up all the trash in back seat that i did not throw out on the highway (thus loosing an extra 5-10 pounds of dead weight)
check all fluid levels and tire pressure
Now out for one more quick run aournd the block to make sure everything works
stop by and pick up a beer for when you get home
or
treat yourself to a cheeseburger and fries and your good to go.
The good old Italian tune-up, an afternoon with - CleanMPG Forums
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,512
Likes: 18
From: Detroit
Hey all- I'm new here- I have a 2006 E-350 with the 5.4 motor. Runs great but on a cold startup in the morning, it sounds like tappet noise . After it runs for about 5-10 seconds it smooths out. I run 5w-20 per book & change oil every 3k since it was new. Dealer said this was normal for these engines. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill
(I'm also a guitarist...)
George
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Almost all filters on the market that is to spec have the anti-drainback valve.
That include FRAM, Delco, etc.
Unlikely to be the source of the problem.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,512
Likes: 18
From: Detroit
Unlikely that a 25 cent can of light oil, naphtha, and isopropyl alcohol is going to do any good either. To turn your concept around, all motor oils on the market have detergents in them and you don't need to add crap like seafoam
George
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
The most likely culprit once a defective oil filter is eliminated ---
A blocked oil passage way.
Let me see... ways to fix it...
Disassemble engine, find blockage, and repair...
Or...
Snake oil and a snake charmer.
I would opt for the latter first.
A blocked oil passage way.
Let me see... ways to fix it...
Disassemble engine, find blockage, and repair...
Or...
Snake oil and a snake charmer.
I would opt for the latter first.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,512
Likes: 18
From: Detroit
Let's get an answer as to what kind of filter the OP is using first.
George
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
It may be casting sand, part left in engine when assembled, piece of gasket, etc.
Or something as simple as an oil pickup that fell off into the pan (draining oil out) and is only sucking after it runs for a bit.
Or a bad oil pump.
Sure.. do the $2 fix first...
Mileage is not known.. and sludge can form very easily (even with 3,000 mile oil changes) in the right climate conditions.
Like 1 mile runs cold repeatedly.
Or something as simple as an oil pickup that fell off into the pan (draining oil out) and is only sucking after it runs for a bit.
Or a bad oil pump.
Sure.. do the $2 fix first...
Mileage is not known.. and sludge can form very easily (even with 3,000 mile oil changes) in the right climate conditions.
Like 1 mile runs cold repeatedly.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 1
From: St. Louis, Mo.
Guys- Did'nt mean to open up a can o worms here- , but I appreciate any and all knowledge- I currently have right at 34k on truck - Did buy a fram filter (was on special) last oil change. Im gonna try the ford filter first as it is due for an oil change shortly anyway. - If that dont work I can drain a little out and add the seafoam. I have the fumoto valves on all my trucks so its no big deal to drain some out later. Thanks again, Bill
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,512
Likes: 18
From: Detroit
Guys- Did'nt mean to open up a can o worms here- , but I appreciate any and all knowledge- I currently have right at 34k on truck - Did buy a fram filter (was on special) last oil change. Im gonna try the ford filter first as it is due for an oil change shortly anyway. - If that dont work I can drain a little out and add the seafoam. I have the fumoto valves on all my trucks so its no big deal to drain some out later. Thanks again, Bill
Motorcraft filters are $5 or less, so it's not like they are high priced. I have also had good results with Bosch (made by Wix or Purolator) and PureOne filters and in fact have a couple PureOnes in my basement from oil/filter specials. The most important thing is to get a silicone anti drainback valve and quality construction (which Frams do NOT have). If you do some Googling on Fram filters and see how those things are built inside, it'll help you break the habit pretty quick. Especially if you let the van sit for a couple days, the cheapo ADB valves let the filter empty out and cause the clatter. If you search this forum on "Fram filter startup noise" you will find a number of threads where people had this problem and it was fixed after changing the filter to something other than Fram.
I used to use Frams in the old days and their real high end filters are still probably fine, but cost twice as much as a Motorcraft 820S. Let us know if the filter change helps.
Gearloose--have you EVER heard of sand inside a mod motor left over from casting the block? This is not 1955. Or extra parts left inside? You might as well worry about a family of mice building a nest in the oil passages
Take care,
George
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Yup.
In fact, on my particular motor, it is legendary for casting sand improperly cleaned and shedding sand that plugs the coolant (water) passages.
Same with the oil galleys
All motors will shed casting sand as the shot cleaning is never perfect.
On most motors, it is a minor issue, on mine (6.0) it is a huge issue.
So we have a lot of the guys running around with aftermarket coolant filters.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,512
Likes: 18
From: Detroit
Yup.
In fact, on my particular motor, it is legendary for casting sand improperly cleaned and shedding sand that plugs the coolant (water) passages.
Same with the oil galleys
All motors will shed casting sand as the shot cleaning is never perfect.
On most motors, it is a minor issue, on mine (6.0) it is a huge issue.
So we have a lot of the guys running around with aftermarket coolant filters.
In fact, on my particular motor, it is legendary for casting sand improperly cleaned and shedding sand that plugs the coolant (water) passages.
Same with the oil galleys
All motors will shed casting sand as the shot cleaning is never perfect.
On most motors, it is a minor issue, on mine (6.0) it is a huge issue.
So we have a lot of the guys running around with aftermarket coolant filters.
Thanks for the info, seriously--I now have yet another piece of engine trivia to file in my brain.
George
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
George
In fact, in any high performance motor that is stressed hard (high output, compression, etc.), casting sand is an issue.
The issue is covered up because most gassers are so low stressed, and what contaminants are kept in solution (and abrade the cooling system).
One common trick when you buy a brand new vehicle is to change the oil and filter at 50, 100, 250, 500, 1000, 3000, then 5,000 and normal change intervals --- to flush out casting sand, grit, metal shavings, etc.
If you want your gasser to last 200,000 miles... it is worth it.
Just because it is generally not a problem --- doesn't mean that this particular unit doesn't have it.
So.... that is why... sometimes, it is worth trying something drastic.
The whole idea of an Italian tuneup is to highly stress it, loosening crud, and flushing it out.
In fact, in any high performance motor that is stressed hard (high output, compression, etc.), casting sand is an issue.
The issue is covered up because most gassers are so low stressed, and what contaminants are kept in solution (and abrade the cooling system).
One common trick when you buy a brand new vehicle is to change the oil and filter at 50, 100, 250, 500, 1000, 3000, then 5,000 and normal change intervals --- to flush out casting sand, grit, metal shavings, etc.
If you want your gasser to last 200,000 miles... it is worth it.
Just because it is generally not a problem --- doesn't mean that this particular unit doesn't have it.
So.... that is why... sometimes, it is worth trying something drastic.
The whole idea of an Italian tuneup is to highly stress it, loosening crud, and flushing it out.