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just adding my .02 on the fram filters. i own an e350 SD 5.4 and an oil change shop on the highway changed my oil during a trip. they used the right oil, but installed the infamous orange fram filter and in washington state early in the cold mornings she'd startup with a clatter that would scare the beejesus out of you. anyway i changed out that filter at a wal-mart on the way back to AZ for about $4.88, or less. i grew up on those orange filters until this site, and owning a modular engine. NEVER AGAIN
George - I'll let you all know if this solves the noise issue. Now that you say that I do notice it being worse after sitting a few days over the weekend.Learned something new about the fram filters, gonna stay oem from now on. Like you said its not worth a major engine overhaul to save a few bucks on a oil filter. BTW I have a 7.3 diesel Ford superduty truck that I installed an aftermarket coolant filter on to catch sand castings & sediment. A lot of guys on the 1999-2003 superduty forum have as well.Thanks again for the good help!! Bill
Not to belabor the point.... but oil filters also do not remove all the crud in the engine when new....
Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
If you are working the engine hard... expect casting sand to shed from the oil galleys.
Totally unrelated: A big Japanese maker tried to cut some corners (of not having to design a new cast block with oil passages cast in) by using an external rubber oil pipe to feed oil from the oil pump to the heads.
The pipes cracked under the pressure, and when it did so, can spill the whole crankcase of oil in a matter of a minute... resulting in a costly recall to install a redesigned pipe that have a very expensive to manufacture metal flex coupling in the middle...
Better yet... the oil pressure warning light only came n AFTER the pipe blew most of the oil out... resulting in severe engine damage.
Hey, I have an 00 E350, 198K mi, and it rattles as well for about 15 seconds on cold startup. I've been using Valvoline high mileage dino/synth blend with a Purolator Pure One Filter. Could this be the same thing? I've done a fair bit of reading on oil filters and have stopped using Fram, but always heard good things about even the cheap Purolator filters.
This noise is the same as when I have just changed the oil, and I fill the filter with fresh oil before spinning it on. I fill is till it will take no more (about 1/2 quart)
Well- I changed the oil & filter the other day (motorcraft filter) & it is better but still has that rattle for a couple seconds on initial start of day. Guess I will try the seafoam. Btw the seafoam wont void man. warranty on engine will it? Thanks, Bill
Well- I changed the oil & filter the other day (motorcraft filter) & it is better but still has that rattle for a couple seconds on initial start of day. Guess I will try the seafoam. Btw the seafoam wont void man. warranty on engine will it? Thanks, Bill
I am personally not a fan of Seafoam but it's your van and engine. Mod motors all have *some* noise at startup but I haven't heard yours. First, I assume you are still using 5W20 oil, right?
If you want to use the Seafoam or any other additive and then decide to take it to the dealer to have something done on the engine under warranty, especially something major, I would make sure that there was no additive in the oil at that time. (Change it again...)
Some dealers have been known to do an oil analysis and I assume Seafoam, which is light oil, naphtha (lighter fluid), and isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) might show up as something.
You are adding something to your engine that the owner's manual and the shop manuals do not mention or approve so yes, in theory it could void your warranty if the work is at all related to the engine oil. It certainly would not affect the warranty on, say, a power window... I have my doubts that it would help, personally, but if it does, let us know. If I thought my engine had a problem with deposits, I might first use a high end synthetic oil like Pennzoil Ultra first, and give it some time in the crankcase.
My 06 E250 has the same problem. Started at about 30,000 miles. That's about when I started doing my own oil changes to save a bit of money (Fram filters from Walmart). I'm at 50,000 now. My last oil change was at the dealer and he problem has NOT gone away. Maybe it's time for the snake oil? What's a Fumoto valve?
My 06 E250 has the same problem. Started at about 30,000 miles. That's about when I started doing my own oil changes to save a bit of money (Fram filters from Walmart). I'm at 50,000 now. My last oil change was at the dealer and he problem has NOT gone away. Maybe it's time for the snake oil? What's a Fumoto valve?
A fumoto valve is like a little stopcock that replaces the drain plug on your oil pan so that when you run over a branch, your oil will drain out Got Google?
What kind of filter did your Ford dealer put on your van? Some dealers use something cheaper than a Motorcraft for their "budget" change (mine used to but I would always pay extra for a Motorcraft filter).
I doubt very much that any snake oil will help you, but it's your engine. Italian tuneups work best for old Fiats with carburetors, I think.
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