Speaking of thread resurrections...

Where are those pics slowmans?! My DieselSite coolant bypass filter's on the way and I'd like to see how yours is mounted. Got my Amsoil oil bypass in today too...woo-hoo! (Says the filtration nerd...)

 

hahaha, I never got around to it...maybe today if I have time.

Does gear head have a website? how do we go about getting some of matts tunes? I sent a message on F.B a week ago and haven't heard anything?

 

After all this discussion this is a bit late, but . . .

It would be less expense, less maintenance, less chances for a coolant leak just to change to the OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant. It needs no filter, no nitrite tests and no change for 600,000 miles, 12,000 hours or 6 years, whichever comes first. OAT coolant is red in color and is likely what's factory in the 6.7.

 

I thought one of the great concerns about switching the coolant was the changing of the chemicals and how it reacts with the metals in the motor.

Changing that makeup would be harmful to the motor.

Thoughts?

 

OAT is formulated for diesel engines and meets all Ford, International, Cat and any other diesel spec you can imagine. In the future it will likely be the only antifreeze supplied for diesel engines.

I see no reason to suspect it will react with any metals in a 6.4.

 

I have an international dealer just down the road. I might just ask them what they are using in the maxxforce models. Will take a fews days since I am in Louisiana though.

 

One of my fellow churchmen, and a good friend, has worked for International as mechanic, shop foreman, salesman, general manager for over 35 years now.

I might see Jim at church tomorrow. . . and remember ask the same question.

OAT has just been in the Archer line-up for two or three years now. I might ask my superiors the same questions, even though I know it's spec'd for our 6.4 engines.

 

Try here: Gearhead Automotive Performance

And hit Matt up direct here: matt@gearheadautomotiveperformance.com

 

Sales pitch for OAT coolant aside, you're still not taking into account the fact that these sand cast motors contaminate the coolant as seen HERE. Less expensive? The system is $130 and filters are $10. My truck stickered at over $60K when I bought it new, so no need to make the penny wise, pound foolish argument. Less chances for a coolant leak? Install is properly and it won't be any more likely to leak than any where else in cooling system. Coolant filters are commonplace in medium duty and OTR trucks so adding them to our light duty trucks is just good preventive maintenance. Using your same argument, but substituting coolant for oil (using AMSOIL for instance) in place of factory Motorcraft wouldn't achieve the same benefits of adding an oil bypass filter, now would it? Now a complete cooling system flush and replacement with OAT coolant combined with the coolant bypass system could be the best of both worlds, but I'd likewise be concerned about any residue coolant and potential chemical reaction/contamination when they interact...

 

Anytime one has more fittings, more lines, more . . . there is an increased chance for a malfunction.

I guess judgment as to which sales pitch is penny wise, pound foolish is in the eye of the beholder.

 

I guess my biggest concern in the switching of the types of coolant would be the cross contaimination factor. I like the article but one would really need to confident of a clean motor to use it in.

 

here's one that answers the cross contamination/chemical reaction concern . . . at least IMHO. Note particularly the last statement in the next to last paragraph.

http://www.aftermarketsuppliers.org/...ish/05-2R1.pdf

 

what you doing in my neck of the woods senix?

 

So the pictures of the coolant bypass filters clogged with sand are (1) faked or (2) not a concern if you switch to OAT coolant? If you're claiming that OAT coolant won't leech the sand of the motor casting and send it through the entire cooling system (please clear up that point first) then the only way OAT would be effectively is if you ran it in your truck at day 1, mile 1, flushed out the entire system and started with OAT coolant from Jump Street. Never mind the fact that fresh/new motors have all sorts of assembly related junk running through both their oil and coolant passages to begin with.

Your "...more fittings, more lines, more..." argument is weak. If you lack the mechanical ability to install something as simple as either a oil or coolant bypass system in your truck then you can easily find someone who can for a nominal fee.

Your indictment of bypass filter systems is amusing, and directly contradicts just about every single piece of empirical evidence that they are extremely effective at what they do. Your caveat that they're failure prone or otherwise compromise the integrity of the system they're applied to is a reflection of the skill (or lack thereof) of the individual that installed it, not the product itself.

How many hundreds (if not thousands) of users of DieselSite coolant and tranny bypass filter systems and AMSOIL oil bypass filter systems (not to exclude FS-2500, OilGuard, etc.) have had other than complete success with them, as evidence by sand-clogged coolant filters or glowing Blackstone OA's? I can recall ONE individual who had a problem with a leaking fitting when installing the DieselSite coolant bypass system. He wasn't crying the sky is falling like Chicken Little and I didn't let that prevent me from buying one. And if you go through the trouble of installing a bypass filtration system of any type and don't bother to check for leaks, then any problem arising from an undetected leak is installation related, and readily visible by looking in the mirror...

Your "dog in this fight" is OAT coolant, which you sell. At NO point have I said that combining OAT coolant with a coolant bypass system is incompatible, so I'm not really sure why you're continuing to dig yourself into a hole, but I'm more than happy to bury you with the facts if you want to keep it up...

 

At Ft. Polk visiting my oldest.