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champion is a good plug but in a 2 stroke i also have bad luck (only denso for me) but on my 302 w/ aluminum heads edelbrock's first choice of plugs are champion's. and i dont think you can get just boots for the cop's, maybe get one and move it thru the cylinders to look for the problem if thats where it is.
i dont have much expierience with them other than snowmachines. I think i will keep them in there, but i think i am gonna pull all of them and see if they are good or bad. i also wanna re-check the gaps on them. I think i will also unplug a coil at a time and see if i can locate the missfiering cylinder. I know that i can get the boots because i asked o'reily and they had em but they are like 10 dollars a piece. so i like your idea just to go through all of them with one and see if it gets better. thanks for the ideas!
I am battling the same issue with you as well. Come to find out cleaning that valve did not fix it. I am going to start on the plugs tomorrow and the system for air leaks on the vac.
just changed my plugs back to motorcraft and still am at war against the idle. I am gonna take out the vct sensors and clean them. when i take them out is there any parts i will need to replace? also i was wondering if anybody has anymore ideas or if i should take it to the stealership and have them run some tests?
just changed my plugs back to motorcraft and still am at war against the idle. I am gonna take out the vct sensors and clean them. when i take them out is there any parts i will need to replace? also i was wondering if anybody has anymore ideas or if i should take it to the stealership and have them run some tests?
Do you think changing the spark plug wires out would help any?
well it would probobly help but with mine its coil over plugs so there is no wires. the coils are 50 to 60 a piece. so i am trying to stay away from that. i am gonna take it to ford today and have them give me an answer. if i can figure out what is wrong i can fix it. i jsut dont want this problem to nickle and dime me and never figure it out. I will keep you updated on what they find out.
well just got the call from ford, everything checked out fine as far as ignition and timing. they wanted me to give them another 300$ on top of the 100 I already gave them so they could pull the valve covers and do a cylinder wet down test (which if anybody knows what that is then i would appricieate an explination.) They think it is a bad valve, or a cracked or warped head. either way it will be about 3,000 to repair. I just dont have the money for that s*$@ so i am doing it myself. so if anybody has any good websites or a manual that will tell me how to do all this then I most definetly need all the help i can get. I appricieate all the help from everybody already, this website has saved me alot of money so far. so to everybody out there who appriciates the allmighty blue oval, help me get mine back on the road so we can keep kickin some bowtie a**!
Man I hope this isn't the fix. I just changed the plugs on my 5.4 and have been having the same problem (a rough idle but no codes and it doesn't miss through the RPM range). It's almost seems like the idle timing is off, but I am just starting to research this problem.
Originally Posted by jkarne
well just got the call from ford, everything checked out fine as far as ignition and timing. they wanted me to give them another 300$ on top of the 100 I already gave them so they could pull the valve covers and do a cylinder wet down test (which if anybody knows what that is then i would appricieate an explination.) They think it is a bad valve, or a cracked or warped head. either way it will be about 3,000 to repair. I just dont have the money for that s*$@ so i am doing it myself. so if anybody has any good websites or a manual that will tell me how to do all this then I most definetly need all the help i can get. I appricieate all the help from everybody already, this website has saved me alot of money so far. so to everybody out there who appriciates the allmighty blue oval, help me get mine back on the road so we can keep kickin some bowtie a**!
well just got the call from ford, everything checked out fine as far as ignition and timing. they wanted me to give them another 300$ on top of the 100 I already gave them so they could pull the valve covers and do a cylinder wet down test (which if anybody knows what that is then i would appricieate an explination.) They think it is a bad valve, or a cracked or warped head. either way it will be about 3,000 to repair. I just dont have the money for that s*$@ so i am doing it myself. so if anybody has any good websites or a manual that will tell me how to do all this then I most definetly need all the help i can get. I appricieate all the help from everybody already, this website has saved me alot of money so far. so to everybody out there who appriciates the allmighty blue oval, help me get mine back on the road so we can keep kickin some bowtie a**!
I swear I would take it to an independent shop and get a second opinion. The other day I was at the dealer for an oil change and they tried to tell me my brakes were down to 20% and that my ball joints are shot on one of our Taurus's. They thought I was an idiot. I just put brakes on that car last month and I went to check the ball joints. Tight and totally fine with no play.
Some dealerships are good but some are also looking for money sometimes. I believe in the dealership but gosh they dont have to lie about it to have a big sale.
I read in the other 150 forum on this for the older ones and a guy was having the same issue. He said changing his fuel pump solved his problem. I may just do that. With my 150 pushing 90k miles I am willing to bet ya that its worn out. That seems like a reasonable time for the fuel pump to start giving trouble.
I read in the other 150 forum on here for the older generation f150's where a guy had the same issues. Come to find out it was his fuel pump. With my 150 pushing 90k miles I am willing to bet ya that the fuel pump is starting to wear out and thats what is causing the trouble.
I looked into the fuel system and I have perfect pressure. I also listened to the injectors with a stethoscope and they where clicking away like nobody's business. That doesn’t necessarily mean they are injecting it just means the valve is opening. When i took it to the dealership they said they did an injector test and all of them checked out fine. What I did do though is change out my spark plug boots that i got for 50 bucks at a Napa store, they were the only ones that had them, and the idle went from completely crappy to steady with a intermittent misfire that I can feel about every two to three seconds. So my advice to you Dx2ry is to change the COP boots out because it will make a world of difference. I think that they just wear out and they don't keep a tight seal on the plug so it allows the wire to move freely not allowing it to have a good connection sometimes. I agree about the second opinion. I really think they are trying to scam me for some money. Through all of this i also had the brakes wear out on my 2009 Honda civic at 21,000 miles. That isn’t very many miles and on top of that the dealer wanted 250 bucks to change the two front brakes out. I told them no and brought it home and did it for 50 bucks. the beauty of it thought was that I got the lifetime warranty ones from AutoZone so i will hopefully never have to pay for new pads again. The moral to the story is that these car dealers are getting more and greedier and I think that I will never take my vehicle to a dealership again. Good luck to you guys and keep me updated on what you find out with yours and I will do the same.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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