Charging System
Sep 26, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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Mountain Pass
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
Charging System
I have had to replace my
altanater 2 in the last 8 weeks this time I put it on and started the truck the Altanater light is still on I am confused I had the parts store bench test this one before I took it does anyone have any experience with this issue or have a clue what I should look at next?
Sep 26, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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Check your batteries.
Check the alternator pigtail (or just replace it).
IF I were to lay a guess... pigtail.
Sep 26, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Mountain Pass
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
I will check it do you have any Idea of who would be open on sunday that might have a new pigtail to replace it with?
Sep 26, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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IMHO, the pigtail is pretty widely available because many Fords use the identical part.
Ford markets a "kit" that have the pigtail, crimp connectors, shrink tubing, etc. to do a perfect job... but the cost is $$$
I would walk in with a pic (or yours) in your hot little paws and ask for them to match it up for you.
Call NAPA, Autozone, etc. around you to make sure they have it in stock before you go...
Sep 26, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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Mountain Pass
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
Thanks Gear I will check it out now
Sep 26, 2010 | 03:09 PM
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Mountain Pass
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
Hey gear I was reading I am curious are you refering to the 2 wire thin aass wire pig tail or the single heavy wire on the altanater ?
Sep 26, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
soberdude94
Hey gear I was reading I am curious are you refering to the 2 wire thin aass wire pig tail or the single heavy wire on the altanater ?
2 wire pigtail.
My experience is there is a high probability of an internal break (right where the wire goes into the molded part) and it is often:
a) intermittent
b) a pita to isolate
Visualize the engine shaking around, that joint takes a lot of stress.
On the replacement pigtails, there is a stress relief (a tube like structure) that comes out of the molded part.
Testing it at the connector may not reveal the break --- when it intermittently makes contact.
Another suspect is the connector itself and the solder / wire crimp joint inside.
I don't have an X-ray machine... but that is a sure way to reveal an internal fault without replacing it!
Sep 26, 2010 | 03:19 PM
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Mountain Pass
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
hell cheap to replace and a whole lot less time than the other time = money i will replace the pig tail
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Sep 26, 2010 | 03:23 PM
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Post replacing pigtail --- check voltages of sense wire, as well as exciter to ensure it is on spec.
Details in link below.
If you are not getting battery voltage at the sense wire --- you got a problem in that circuit all the way back to the batteries.
Sep 26, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Mountain Pass
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From: Hell with a zip code PHX
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gearloose1
Post replacing pigtail --- check voltages of sense wire, as well as exciter to ensure it is on spec.
Details in link below.
If you are not getting battery voltage at the sense wire --- you got a problem in that circuit all the way back to the batteries.
Wich wire is the sensw wire and what is the exciter? I am here to learn and the only stupid question is the one we dont ask
Sep 26, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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Get the alternator diagram for your vehicle (whatever generation it is) and the color of the wire should be labeled.
Ford Fuel Injection Alternator Files
Note:
Wiring color may not be exactly the same as the diagrams.
Sep 26, 2010 | 03:42 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 108
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From: Canada,Ont.
If it same as mine the one one passenger side OG/LB koeo should be battery voltage and driver side LG/RD 1-3v and around 9v koer
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