What would u do dually or single?
The issues with headbolts from the factory was due to robots not properly torquing the bolts. That's not a design issue, that's a quality control issue. Once that was realized, didn't have those issues.
Once again, how are you going to weed out the legit claims from the non-legit? If we were able to do that and see the "true" numbers of those that had issues, I bet we would be singing a different tune then we are now.
There are copious amounts of things that owners and/or techs can due to these trucks that would cause those issues that you mentioned. How are you going to weed out the ones that did those things and that either lied about it or didn't realize that they did them? Until you can say that, you can't say if a/m parts are necessary or not. All ARPs due is show that some things can withstand stupidity. Although, ARPs are not even totally fullproof. It all depends on how well they were installed and if everything was done during the installation process that that specific truck needed. I can trash the TS with stupidity if I wanted to and that's damn near the best auto tranny in stock form. No matter what, it's hard to handle stupidity.
Notice that I did not mention head bolts other than the fact they are too small? The stock head bolts are fine so long as they are installed properly and the truck does not see high boost levels on a regular basis. Ford should have never programmed the engine to allow those high boost levels. Navistar trucks rarely have this issue since the VT365 does not see the boost level a PSD 6.0 sees. As for the robots not installing them correctly? That is a legitimate complaint on reliability. Navistar is at fault there since they built the engines. The only real way to permanently fix the EGR cooler is to replace it with an aftermarket one or install a coolant filter and hope it lasts. It is a poor design. There are trucks that must idle and if you run cetane boost or find 46-52 cetane fuel you can likely avoid a sooted up egr valve. Most people don't realize that and assume its better to idle a diesel. I also believe the VC7B gold antifreeze is partly to blame too. Ford has a special service message which states that vehicles with over 100k miles should service their coolant at 50k mile intervals from then on. I can beat this dead horse all day long. The facts are we have never seen as many failures on the 7.3s as we have seen on the 6.0. The dealer I work for was the #2 selling Ford truck dealer in the nation for quite a few years. Our truck shop has over 30 bays alone. We have 11 Ford Certified Diesel techs. We work on an extraordinary amount of diesel trucks so I see what is good and bad.
For the record I only support using aftermarket parts to fix something once its a proven fix. I use OEM parts first and foremost.
Glad you 6.0 has treated you well. You are one of the few that has followed the maintenance book and made yours last. If you are running a aftermarket tune you are playing with fire. Good luck.
I am off the soap box.
I do not advocate, nor do I use a coolant filter. I don't believe they are necessary. Given the fact that I have both my EGR cooler and my Oil cooler intact and the stock ones, I can say that with the upmost confidence.
I'm more likely to get rid of my 5.4 then I am my 6.0. By the way, I've owned my 6.0 since it just had 20 miles on the odometer. So far I'm it's only owner. Statistically speaking, if the 6.0 is as bad as you say it is, something would have given on it by now. I have had to only replace the a/c control unit and one FICM after 5 yrs. Both of which were done under warranty.
I'm putting down 508HP and 721FT/LBs of TQ and have been for the last 3 yrs. It hauls ~16k in horseflesh regularly and not a lick of trouble.
I'm more likely to get rid of my 5.4 then I am my 6.0. By the way, I've owned my 6.0 since it just had 20 miles on the odometer. So far I'm it's only owner. Statistically speaking, if the 6.0 is as bad as you say it is, something would have given on it by now. I have had to only replace the a/c control unit and one FICM after 5 yrs. Both of which were done under warranty.
I think you might be playing "catch up" for awhile. Bad batteries, bad fuel filters etc. I'm not surprised that you've had FICM issues and injector issues. Bad batteries would play hell with the FICM and the FICM could play hell with the injectors compound that with bad fuel filters and boom bye bye injectors.
There might be other marginal injectors just waiting to go out on you, I don't know. There may not be, but that's what I would hold out on for awhile anyway.
Either way, I would keep up with treating her right and keep up with all the service and do it when it needs to be done. Use the severe service schedule to, doesn't matter if you truly need it or not, it helps.
The 6.0 is expensive arm candy. Take her out every once and a while, let her get some type of workout and treat her right and you'll be the envy around town. Don't treat her right and she'll let you know right quick.
Edit: BTW the injector issue and bad batt issue happend to months ago and every morning for the past 2 or 3 days shes startin to exhibit cold/rough start again, but fine when warmed up. But not alotta greyish blueish smoke like last inject issue. So im guessin since i had those two bad batts two months ago, that the FICMs startin to go cause of that

Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
And im for sure not gonna rule it out. Since i replaced injectors last month, thats second on my list to look at. But since my tech said i only had one functioning batt when my batt went bad, thatll make me check the FICM first. then inject. But thats when i get time lol since i basically live in the truck during the day
EDIT: When i say cold start, my trucks doin this stuff in 50 degree weather

Might be worth pointing that dually not only is having higher load capacity, but also less problems with trailer fishtailing.
Good points about 6 liter, but I disagree about high prices on 7.3. I've seen one F250 with less than 200k sold for less than 5 grands a month ago.
I dive lot on deserts where nearest service station can be 300 miles away. Reliability for me is #1 and I can live with 7.3 noise for that.
BTW one explanation why 7.3 is not selling too many of OEM parts might be, that not too many owners run them stock and there is huge aftermarket for parts for those engines. I have a feeling I am the only one with stock 7.3 on this forum.
I would say that synthetic should help you out. 50 degrees is starting to get down there. It's not like starting cold in the middle of summer, that would be a different situation.
I would say that synthetic should help you out. 50 degrees is starting to get down there. It's not like starting cold in the middle of summer, that would be a different situation.
Ok thanks. ill let ya know how the cold starts are when i change the oil!
Edit: No it isnt cold starting in the summer. With the bad injectors it was
Barebones, were talking above zero




