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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Rant thread and guidance needed

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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 08:22 PM
  #1  
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Rant thread and guidance needed

The truck
96 F350, 460, 5 speed, Banks Torque Tube headers, Vortech Supercharger, BBK throttle body.

The issue.
On my way back from Carlisle truck show, my super charger started to spray oil.
I sent the headunit back to Vortech to get new bearings and seals. When they went to pull the bearing it fell out of the case, so it also got a new case.
I asked around on some other forums and the concensus was that my oil drain into the valve cover was not down hill enough and the oil was backing up. So i need to put the drain line lower to help the oil drain faster. So i figured i would go straight down into the timing cover.

So i pulled the accesories, water pump and timing cover. But where i wanted to put the oil drain there is a coolant passage, almost the whole timing cover is coolant passages.

Ok, I'll drain it to the oil pan. So i unbolt the oil pan and of course i cant get it out. I undo the motor moiunts and jack the engine up as far as it will go(2"). Still not enough. It is hitting the drivers side header. So i go to unbolt it. Well 3 of the 8 bolts i round the heads off. STUPID 12 POINT BOLTS. I cant believe Banks sells you a header with a 5/8 header flange but gives you the ****tiest bolt known to man. The headers have been on the truck 8 years and 25k(and fully antiseezed). The truck NEVER goes out in the rain, snow or salt but the bolts are rusted to hell.
Well tonight i finally get the 3 screwed bolts heads ground off and the header pulled away from the head BUT the EGR tube is rusted fast to the nut where it attaches to the header(but i figure i can sneak it out the bottom. As i am trying to pull the header out the bottom i realize there is another air tube on the header running over to the passenger side. I cant get to the nut on the drivers header, not really sure how i am going to get the passenger side one either. When i put the headers on i used chased all the threads and antiseazed EVERYTHING but it is all still rusted together

Tomorrow i am either going to pull the engine or the trans. I am leaning towards the engine due to the truck is lifted 8" w 35" tires and i dont think my floor jack will go high enough to hold the trans.

Ok. Now. Anyone have any other ideas of what to do? I am also going to pull the passenger header while i am in this far to change out the bolts with stainless 6 point ones from here. Totally Stainless
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 09:41 PM
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I think you should get a Ford's Workshop Manual, that would make the procedure less traumatic. Regarding the bolts... that sucks man!.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Encho
I think you should get a Ford's Workshop Manual, that would make the procedure less traumatic. Regarding the bolts... that sucks man!.
Less traumatic? How so?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 08:05 AM
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well it may be too late for this suggestion but why couldn't you increase the size of the oil drain back diameter?Also if you pull the motor you will still need to support the tranny. it might be easier to slide the tranny and cross-member back in the frame.It's a trick we do at the shop I can give you detailed instructions on the procedure if you want.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 10:49 AM
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Maybe there is something you could do in a different way that will make things easier for you, i can't be specific as i've never done what you're trying right now. Maybe the Shop Manual will show a better/easier procedure.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 12:50 PM
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There are only 2 ways to get pan out. One pull the engine. Two pull the trans and lift the engine.


Well I ended up pulling the trans and t-case to give me room to pull the pan. I also had to lift the motor about 2 inches. I am actually glad i pulled the pan. There were a couple of rust blisters i never saw. I sand blasted the pan and repainted it.

Today i am going to paint the water pump and bolts. While they are drying i am goint to pull the passenger header to change out those bolts.

Wish me luck
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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Finally, something went my way. I changed out one header bolt at a time. All the old ones came out pretty good but the heads were real close to rounding. Made sure a slathered up the new Stainless 6 sided blots real good with antiseeze again


Also got the H2O pump and bolts painted, bolted to the timing cover and back on the truck.

Hopefully tomorrow, the rear main seal, oil pump and pan back on
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 09:50 PM
  #8  
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I used the Grade 8 locking stainless bolts on my headers. There are very nice bolts, but hopefully I never have the problems you had with yours. My headers also came with 12pt non stainless bolts.

Fordyduty, he already had a pretty large line on the drain so increasing line size wouldn't have helped much. It either needed to run downhill more or use a small pump to help pull the oil out and to the valve cover..
 
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