2000 4.2 towing
I am looking at putting a tow package onto it, but would it be worth it since It cannot pull much?
Also what all would I need other than just the tow package and brake wiring?
The specs are found at the top of this page for your year and model.
Be sure you interpet the charts correctly.
The allowed trailer weight hardly is heavey enough to warrent getting an electric brake controller and it's wiring.
The weight is about inline for small to medium size pop-up camper or utility trailer
In many states the limit for trailer weight before trailer brakes are required by law is about 3500 lbs.
Good luck
The ones I will be pulling is either an 8ft or 12ft utility. Only 50-100 miles at a time at most. Im just to scared to just be using the hitch on my bumper for anything other than just moving the empty tailer.
The brakes were one thing I knew I prolly wouldnt need since the trucks towing is rated so low.
I dont have the window sticker or anything so I would I find the gear ratio?
If you are only using a smaller utility trailer and don't load beyond 2000 lbs, the bumper would be ok for limited use.
Otherwise get a class 2 receiver hitch mounted if you will be towing often.
Brake condition is important and to keep the best pads on because the truck has to stop the gross combined weight .
Tire condition for traction is also important. On a wet road, coming to a stop from enough speed and load could result in pushing right through an intersection.
So bottom line is you have to be awhere of these operating issues and equip the truck for reasonable use and drive accordingly.
I just got a small flat bed trailer in the 2000 lb class and hauled the normal size Hay Bricks at somewhere in to 800 to 900 lb weight range.
Otherwise I usually tow a 22' enclosed trailer with a Sprint car racer, tools and parts. It's gross combined weight is in the 12,000 lb range.
So see both ends of towing for weight and size.
Make sure the lighting on the trailer is solid and test it everytime you hook up.
You need a min. of a 4 pin outlet to power the utility trailer for left, right, stop and running lights.
If there is no harness for this, you may be able to find a "slave" unit that relays all the signals to the trailer instead of connecting directly into the truck harness.
It will require some install and isolates any problem with the trailer from taking out the trucks lighting functions.
One effect of direct connection is the turn signal flash rate would change when the trailer is connected. The slave unit is powered seperatly and would prevent this from happening.
It will work out for you by taking it all one step at a time as you get the feel and experience.
Good luck.
I've towed other F150s and a Z71 Chevy with mine, and the limiting factor is the crippled (but economical!) engine. I just accept not going anywhere quickly if I'm not on flat ground.
The factory bumper hitch is safe within its ratings. I prefer Reese hitches so I don't smash my license plate with trailer tongues, and of course for the extra capacity.








