why is it twisted off in there? did it twist off just when you were trying to get the head off? is it rusted in the hole? or did you tighten it up too much to make it twist off in there? was the threads dirty and it was so tight going into the hole it twisted off while u were putting it in? and i would try weld a nut on it first, dont get too rough on the welded nut, it will be barely on there, if you ever get it to move even a tad of a tad, then you just need to work it back and forth gently till it comes out. oh, and if you have to use a ez out, make sure to use a square one, not a spiraled one. the spiral ones make the bolt swell in there and it will never ever come out after that!!

 

Yeah it twisted when I was taking the head off. This is the first truck I've worked on and I was really stupid and torqued waaaay to hard and snapped it because i was in a rush for no real reason. Hard Lesson learned but on the bright side I bought the truck to learn and i'm doing that.
I'm glad you mentioned the square out because i had heard that but forgot and bought spirals, hopefully the weld works tho and don't have use outs.

 

its not your fault if you were just taking the heads off and it snapped, that means that the threads are rusted in there so tight that it is going to be very difficult to get it out, generally, a regular head on a bolt is much stronger than a nut welded to it. but theres no way to get oil down in there with the head still on the motor. put lots of pb blaster and other oils in there, deep creep and the best pen oil i have ever used is case pen oil u get from a case tractor dealership. it comes with a funny looking top on it but the stuff works really well. is the motor still in the truck? if so the back bolts can be next to impossible to drill without taking the motor completely out. if you have to drill then get a torch and heat the bolt up well to take the temper out of the bolt so it will be easier to drill. you will probly not get it in the very center of the bolt, but try your best, use bigger and bigger bits till u can barely start to see threads show from the block on the side that u got closest too, and then the square ease out, make sure the corner is not in the threads u can see in the block. and pen oil, and it will come out, just takes time and effort! dont tap the ez out too hard in there either. the ez out honestly sounds like your best option.

 

whenever you get down to threads showing, the bolt will loosen up a lot, and the ez out should take the bolt out easily, if u barely tap it in there, put a crescent on it, shave some metal off the bolt, tap it down in there a little more, shave some more off with the out. tap, shave, each time you will get more surface area to grab onto and it will come out eventually. just be easy, the ez out should be nowhere near the piont of twisting off ever!.

 

yeah thats also something my welder friend brought up and i was think about, that the nut welded on would not be as strong as the head of the bolt.
also right now the part sticking out has a notch cut in it from my attempts with the screwdriver and impact screwdriver. so i would have to find a way to file that down i'm assuming to ensure i drill straight.
what i'm thinking is try the weld method and if that works go to easy out, and the weld would have taken care of the notch so drilling should be easier.
How does that sound with you guys

 

i forgot to mention, the engine is still in the truck and the bolt is on the passenger side pretty much right in the middle of the block. I took the heater core out so clearance shouldn't be an issue

 

I was taught by an old-school guy, use marvel mystery oil (MMO) as a penatrant. also if you can drill a side or diaganal intercept hole to get near the inside of the threaded hole, inject the MMO inside the threaded bore, that gets the oil where its needed. then weld the nut on top, and heat the surounding area......
my busted exhaust bolts almost walked out on their own.

 

thats right, the point is to get the bolt loose in the hole before you put a ez out anywhere near it. even if you get the drill bit off center by a lot, it will still be easier to get out of the hole by the time you get to block threads showing and you can oil it up real good

 

Turbill, I am very curious....How did you come out on this snapped head bolt?

 

Welding the nut on is my choice also...... it is done almost daily at the shop on manifold bolts......on new fords.

My best guess for the reason it snapped is, most likely you did not run a bottoming tap in the block threads to clean them before installing the head bolt(s). Consequently the Hbolt bottoms prematurely on garbage in the bolt hole and it snaps off.

Running a bottoming tap and blowing the hole clean should be part of the manual instructions.

Also new head bolts are required to be used every time on the 6.9 engine...... or ARP studs.

 

umm.... We've been over this hundred times. The IDI Head Bolts are NOT TTY bolts, and ARE reusable.

He snapped the bolt off while removing it.

 

Charleswood i haven't been abole to do it yet i just started an new job and have been real busy, the rain up here hasn't helped either. I'm hoping to get it done this weekend or early next week at the latest, I'll keep you updated.