Where do I tap into power ??
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lacey Wa
Where do I tap into power ??
I am hooking up gauges and some other items, and would like to know where, under the dash, or under the hood, that I can safely tap power of these types. Please I don't need, just hook it to the radio wire, from under the dash I can't even see the radio much less the wires that feed it.
constant power---(under dash)--I tapped into the wire to the power point. 25 amp
Switched power---on/off with key--?
park light power---on/off with headlight switch--?
instrument light power---on/off/dim-able with instrument light dimmer--?
Interior light power---on/off with door switches and headlight switch--?
I know these sound easy but every thing is so tightly packed under the dash and all wires are taped into large bundles almost right to the connector block that it is hard to pick the right wire.
Thank you very much, This is my first day on this forum, looks great
constant power---(under dash)--I tapped into the wire to the power point. 25 amp
Switched power---on/off with key--?
park light power---on/off with headlight switch--?
instrument light power---on/off/dim-able with instrument light dimmer--?
Interior light power---on/off with door switches and headlight switch--?
I know these sound easy but every thing is so tightly packed under the dash and all wires are taped into large bundles almost right to the connector block that it is hard to pick the right wire.
Thank you very much, This is my first day on this forum, looks great
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
Unfortunately in these trucks your options are fairly limited. When I installed my gauges I installed T-taps in the fused side of the appropriate circuits for switched +12v and illumination.
Parking lights- I would pull the dash bezel so you can get to the wires for the headlight switch and figure out which wire is hot with just the park lights on and use it, or run a wire under the hood and tap in there (gonna be a beotch though, not much room up by the headlights w/o pulling a bunch of stuff out first).
Interior lights- door switch is probably your best option.
I'm way over on the east side or I'd be glad to help... good luck with it and keep us posted.
Parking lights- I would pull the dash bezel so you can get to the wires for the headlight switch and figure out which wire is hot with just the park lights on and use it, or run a wire under the hood and tap in there (gonna be a beotch though, not much room up by the headlights w/o pulling a bunch of stuff out first).
Interior lights- door switch is probably your best option.
I'm way over on the east side or I'd be glad to help... good luck with it and keep us posted.
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lacey Wa
I've got the main part of the dash bezel loose, but I spent 20 minutes trying to get the headlight switch **** off, I can see a little clip in the groove but can't get it to release.
I may run to a park light, or back to the trailer connector if I have to, I must get things back together and ready to roll with my trailer tomorrow morning.
I may run to a park light, or back to the trailer connector if I have to, I must get things back together and ready to roll with my trailer tomorrow morning.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
I've got the main part of the dash bezel loose, but I spent 20 minutes trying to get the headlight switch **** off, I can see a little clip in the groove but can't get it to release.
I may run to a park light, or back to the trailer connector if I have to, I must get things back together and ready to roll with my trailer tomorrow morning.
I may run to a park light, or back to the trailer connector if I have to, I must get things back together and ready to roll with my trailer tomorrow morning.
A pain the first time you do it, but once you've done it and see how it works its real simple.
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lacey Wa
Thanks guys,
I did figure out the little clip in the ****, then unplugged the tank switch and warning light wires, and removed bezel.
Then not 60 seconds later, a thought hit me like a 2x4 in the head.
Where is the wires going to the lights in the windshield visor?, that the PO (state of Washington) had installed.
Took me about 30 seconds to find that wire, which is of course the parking light circuit. Guess I was too tired to think about that last night.
Now all I need to find today is switched power, shouldn't be too hard, I hope.
Thanks for your help, I am sure I will need more
I did figure out the little clip in the ****, then unplugged the tank switch and warning light wires, and removed bezel.
Then not 60 seconds later, a thought hit me like a 2x4 in the head.
Where is the wires going to the lights in the windshield visor?, that the PO (state of Washington) had installed.
Took me about 30 seconds to find that wire, which is of course the parking light circuit. Guess I was too tired to think about that last night.
Now all I need to find today is switched power, shouldn't be too hard, I hope.
Thanks for your help, I am sure I will need more
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
Thanks guys,
I did figure out the little clip in the ****, then unplugged the tank switch and warning light wires, and removed bezel.
Then not 60 seconds later, a thought hit me like a 2x4 in the head.
Where is the wires going to the lights in the windshield visor?, that the PO (state of Washington) had installed.
Took me about 30 seconds to find that wire, which is of course the parking light circuit. Guess I was too tired to think about that last night.
Now all I need to find today is switched power, shouldn't be too hard, I hope.
Thanks for your help, I am sure I will need more
I did figure out the little clip in the ****, then unplugged the tank switch and warning light wires, and removed bezel.
Then not 60 seconds later, a thought hit me like a 2x4 in the head.
Where is the wires going to the lights in the windshield visor?, that the PO (state of Washington) had installed.
Took me about 30 seconds to find that wire, which is of course the parking light circuit. Guess I was too tired to think about that last night.
Now all I need to find today is switched power, shouldn't be too hard, I hope.
Thanks for your help, I am sure I will need more
For switched +12v you have a few options. The easiest to find is a small plug clipped to the bottom of the dash pointed toward the passenger side... I'm pretty sure one of those wires is switched. If not the plug for the AIC has a switched +12v wire but it can be harder to find.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Thomasville, GA
[quote=superduty4x4;9360989]For switched +12v you have a few options. The easiest to find is a small plug clipped to the bottom of the dash pointed toward the passenger side... I'm pretty sure one of those wires is switched.quote]
What plug is that?
What plug is that?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
I don't know what its for Evan... if you look at the bottom of your dash there is a rectangular plug pointed toward the drivers side (which is for the trailer brake control) and another one pointed toward the passenger side. Stand by I'll see if I can shake anything out...
Edit- no luck with wiring diagrams... its just labeled C159. It's a 3 wire plug but on my truck only 2 wires are there, gray rectangular connector clipped to the bottom of the dash just below the ash tray.
Edit- no luck with wiring diagrams... its just labeled C159. It's a 3 wire plug but on my truck only 2 wires are there, gray rectangular connector clipped to the bottom of the dash just below the ash tray.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lacey Wa
I got everything hooked up on my truck, I did what I call a power-tap on the 30a fuse to the windshield wipers. It is switched power, and working great.
What I mean by power-tap on a fuse is, --carefully clip the top corner of a fuse removing about 1/8" square cube of plastic, exposing the top of the fuse blade on one end, then quickly but carefully solder a wire to that tip, there you go.
Problem is if you blow the fuse you have to do it over again, that is why I wanted to do it a different way, maybe when I have more time.
I installed a boost pressure gauge and a oil temperature gauge for the transmission, from Harbor Freight, they are nice looking units and are working great, I got them on sale for $16 each and they were complete except for a long piece of wire from gauge to transmission which I had on hand.
Thanks for every ones help, it's nice to have friends who can help.
Dave
What I mean by power-tap on a fuse is, --carefully clip the top corner of a fuse removing about 1/8" square cube of plastic, exposing the top of the fuse blade on one end, then quickly but carefully solder a wire to that tip, there you go.
Problem is if you blow the fuse you have to do it over again, that is why I wanted to do it a different way, maybe when I have more time.
I installed a boost pressure gauge and a oil temperature gauge for the transmission, from Harbor Freight, they are nice looking units and are working great, I got them on sale for $16 each and they were complete except for a long piece of wire from gauge to transmission which I had on hand.
Thanks for every ones help, it's nice to have friends who can help.
Dave
