does anyone know what the book time is to replace the oil pan gasket on 1991 5.8 is or about how much this job cost to have done. thanks everyone

 

On all V-8s, you have to pull the engine to change the pan gasket.

 

It's about a 2 - 3 hour job with the proper tools! Most shops will cahrge $150!! I found a shop in my town that did it for $45!!! Now that was a deal!!

 

no you don't need to pull the engine or pan to replace the pan gasket. the pan is simply dropped down, (which isn't much by the way) the old gasket is pulled out. the silicone is removed from rear cap, and the block is wipped clean, as well as the pan. i personaly us 3m spray adhesive to tack the new gasket which is slipped up and around the pan, and into position. (note-replace silicone on rear cap) and slip gasket into place. the only time i replace pull the pan is when i'm replacing it. (mostly because the powder coating has caused the pan to rot out.). can't remember what the time standard is, but i get a few hours anyway. sincerely scott

 

You might consider the one peice rubber gasket made by Fel-pro. It's higher in cost but is an excellent product. Re-usable if you ever need to drop the pan again too.

Randy

 

hey marshall0351

i like what you said about not haveing to remove the engine to replace the oil pan gasket. do you have your own shop and have done this repair yourself? i wonder why steve 83 says you have to remove the engine to do this repair he is usually correct at what he says. so you think this job is worth 200.00 dollars or am i a little high on my price?

 

I have replaced the oil pump and pan gasket without removing the engine. It just takes a little patience.

 

yup i've replaced many oil pans, and pumps, and just gaskets without yanking the engine, no i don't have my own shop. but i've been a FORD tech for 14 yrs. now. and 200.00 don't sound bad. i can't recall what flat rate pays, but i would charge say 2.5-3.0 hrs to do the job (replace pan gasket, and change the oil and filter while there) and at 70.00/hr. 200.00 again don't sound bad. the only engine i've ever pulled for a bad pan gasket were the rangers a few years back with the aluminum pans would suck the gasket into the oil pump pickup tube (after it rotted from the pan). then under warrenty it was just easier to pull the engine. (i believe it was the 2.3L ). anyway ford has a revised pan gasket which is rigid along the sides which makes even easier to install. just make sure you get all the silicone from rear main cap out, use 3m spray adheisive (napa) to hold gasket up while you put the pan up into place. nothin to it. good luck sincerely scott

 

You don't have to pull the motor to drop the pan. If you just drop the pan, get the multi-piece gasket. The one piece is awfully hard to do without taking out the motor. Also, make sure your lady friend is around when your done because you'll have one hell of a sore neck.

 

Ford says 6.1 hours to do the pan gasket. Most decent techs could do this in less than half that time. It can be done without pulling the engine. IMHO, if you have room, you might want to replace the oil pickup. They have a tendency to partially clog over the years.

 

Do I have a choice to use either the 1 or multi piece gasket? I was at autozone and the guy told me I need to use the same kinds that I had currently.

Also I am going to swap out the pump because it is only $30 for a high flow from summit. Anyone have any recommendations on brands to get or stay away from?

Anything else I should do while I have the pan off? I was thinking about cleaning it up and painting it. Anything else?

1990 302

Thanks,
Tim

 

I did this myself a few months back.
I was quoted $275-450 (Ford called out 6+hrs) from different shops. Had some free time so I did it myself.
No the engine doesn't have to come all the way out, but it does have to be lifted for clearance of the front axle crossmember on a 4x4 any way.
EFI manifold needs to be removed for clearance @ firewall , unbolt motor mounts and the radiator shroud has to come off. The exhaust also needs to be disconnected @ manifolds.
It took me about 4 hours, but not having the correct tools will add considerable time (cherrypicker).

Used two piece pan gasket, because even with all the engine lifting, the pan still did not come all the way out!

Pay lots of attention and care re assembling so you don't have to tear down again because of a leak. You only want to teardown once.

Use RTV sealant where the gaskets meet the rubber seals.
For most people, I would say take to shop. It's a messy job and may be worth the price paid, especially if it still leaks when done.

 

both gaskets will work, just depends where ya get one. Just pull the pan clean it up and throw the new one back on 2-3 hr job depending on yer mech style. Just make sure you dont over tighten the pan bolts, they are only torqued to 15 lbs

 

Just thought I’d offer my experience on replacing this gasket per the instructions posted by marshall0351 above. It wasn’t bad at all. The worst part was cleaning everything up with so little space to work. The Fel-Pro gasket (pn OS 34508 R) was easy to work with and seems to have sealed well. I think this would be difficult for those with the older trucks and cork gaskets. I don’t see how you could clean the mating surfaces without removing the pan.
Thanks Mr. Marshall, you saved me a lot of money.
Mikes 95 XLT 302 E40D.

 

I picked up a multi piece gasket at auto zone the other day and was supprised to find that it is made of cork! Is this "normal"? Is there a better one?

Thanks,
Tim