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Jumping AC Compressor

Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:05 PM
  #1  
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Jumping AC Compressor

Tried to recharge my R12 system this weekend with Freeze12. Purged the system for 45 minutes, the system held vacuum so than I started to recharge. Started the truck, put ac to max, the low side read 35 psi, high side 50psi but the compressor never turned on. I read that jumping the compressor will draw the Freeze12 into the system but am unsure how to do this. There is a single plug on the front of the compressor with two posts, do I simply connect one of these posts to the batteries positive side? If so which post. Thanks
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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pressure is too low unless its really cold out, low pressure cutoff switch stops you from doing it.

If you heat the bottle it helps push the coolant in, if your hooked into the low side it can pull coolant in if its operating too.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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On the dryer (round cylinder about 3x8 inches) there is a switch ... Unplug that and jumper the two wires together.

That is the High/Low pressure switch.

If that fails, Test for 12v+ at the compressors two wires, one wire comes from the High/Low pressure switch, the other is ground.

Basically, 12v+ comes from interior controls to the High/Low switch then to the compressor clutch.

Or, You can just apply 12v+ to one of the compressor clutch terminals and ground the other, but that does not indicate the problem as the above mention method does.

DO NOT LEAVE IT JUMPERED or HOT WIRED very long!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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I think your best bet is to jump the low pressure switch plug. Should be near the receiver/dryer, two pin plug on it. Pull the plug and jump the two pins in the plug and the compressor should engage. Remove jumper and replace plug when you have enough freon in.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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Guys thank you very much! I will try the jumper etc.. tonight. I am keeping my fingers crossed the compressor is still good as the truck is new to me. Thanks again.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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if your gonna use the compressor to pull coolant then make usre your charging from the low side or else your gonna be FILLING the coolant bottle rather than draining it.

The kits hook up to low side, but the gauges can do both...
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rhkcommander959
if your gonna use the compressor to pull coolant then make usre your charging from the low side or else your gonna be FILLING the coolant bottle rather than draining it.

The kits hook up to low side, but the gauges can do both...
NOT coolant! Refrigerant. If I had a penny...

If you have 35psi on the low side, and the compressor did not turn on, you have problems. The cut out pressure should be set at around 25psi. There is a screw in the bottom of the switch that can be adjusted for the new refrigerant if needed.

Can you manually rotate the compressor? If not, the comp could be locked up. Jumping directly to the clutch (engine off), you should hear and see the clutch engage. If there is no engagement, the clutch may be bad.

Let us know.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by eraser5
NOT coolant! Refrigerant. If I had a penny...
Obviously not Antifreeze coolant... Gaseous coolants aka refrigerants as they are more commonly referred to . Thought it was obvious what I was referring to personally guess I'll be more careful posting

On another note, I am not sure if freeze12 canisters come with lubricants or not, also was the system not working for long?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by eraser5
NOT coolant! Refrigerant. If I had a penny...

If you have 35psi on the low side, and the compressor did not turn on, you have problems. The cut out pressure should be set at around 25psi. There is a screw in the bottom of the switch that can be adjusted for the new refrigerant if needed.

Can you manually rotate the compressor? If not, the comp could be locked up. Jumping directly to the clutch (engine off), you should hear and see the clutch engage. If there is no engagement, the clutch may be bad.

Let us know.
Originally Posted by rhkcommander959
Obviously not Antifreeze coolant... Gaseous coolants aka refrigerants as they are more commonly referred to . Thought it was obvious what I was referring to personally guess I'll be more careful posting

On another note, I am not sure if freeze12 canisters come with lubricants or not, also was the system not working for long?

Either term is exceptable. We all knew what you meant.
Coolant - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 10:22 PM
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I did not intend to offend, but loose terms just tend to confuse people that are learning. It also comes from too many years working a Ford engineering lab developing and testing compressors and AC systems. And previous experience with customers wanting me to pour a gallon of coolant into the AC. When the terms are loose, you can never be sure.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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Jumpered the low/high pressure switch, clutch worked!! The Freeze12 sells the oil separately and the previous owner told me he had recharged the system in the past with Freeze12. System has not worked since I bought the truck in Feb 2010.

I purchased a nice AC manifold set which is used for both R12 and R134a. It has readings for both PSI, R12, R134a but I am just reading the PSI readings Correct???

I will try again to charge the system by jumpering the compressor and hopefully the low side pressure drops down and the high side increases. Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 08:17 AM
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You can jumper the low pressure cutoff switch on the dryer to get compressor to run.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2024 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Lazy K
I think your best bet is to jump the low pressure switch plug. Should be near the receiver/dryer, two pin plug on it. Pull the plug and jump the two pins in the plug and the compressor should engage. Remove jumper and replace plug when you have enough freon in.
This was easy and worked immediately! Thank u! I left the pin in there just a few minutes. Then took it out and plugged it in. Compressor is staying on as the Freon is getting in. Initially compressor was on and off now after two cans it’s staying on. I used a paper clip. Bent it in a ‘u’ shape and put each end into the two holes on the plug from the switch. My switch is attached to the black, or can be silver, round cylinder which is called an accumulator (on this truck 93 F-150 5.0)


Switch location on the accumulator. Unplug that plug
 
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Old Mar 21, 2024 | 09:12 AM
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Outside of this discussion, but I couldn't help but notice the valve in your heater hose. Great idea, but it should be a 4-port bypass valve so coolant flows properly in system. Many reasons why on different vehicles, t-stat warm up, localized heating of cylinder head, etc, etc.
But cutting off the hot water to the HVAC is definitely a plus. Especially with the older systems and even more in a hot climate.

 
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Old Mar 21, 2024 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gespeter
Outside of this discussion, but I couldn't help but notice the valve in your heater hose. Great idea, but it should be a 4-port bypass valve so coolant flows properly in system. Many reasons why on different vehicles, t-stat warm up, localized heating of cylinder head, etc, etc.
But cutting off the hot water to the HVAC is definitely a plus. Especially with the older systems and even more in a hot climate.
I had heard about it but wasn’t sure how to do it properly. Was just desperate to hv cool ac as I leave the truck running w the ac on for my dogs. Can u explain to me how to do it correctly ? Or send me a pic of what I need to put on it instead? Appreciate ur response! Thanks 😊
 
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