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Pyro:
1. The red and yellow wires go to the sender, one ground and one "key on" positive for the bulb, and the last two are a ground and is the actual gauge power wire a constant hot or key-on?
Can't find the wiring info for the pyro...
2. Probe is a 1/8-27 NPT... What size drill bit do I use for the hole in the manifold before I tap it?
Also I think I know someone with a Tap for it, but if not where can I find one that I can rent/borrow?
When I installed Autometers in my buddy's SD we wired it to switched +12v and he doesn't have any problems. Why the hell would you want power to the gauges when the key is off??? Makes no sense...
5/16" is 0.3125 FYI... pretty close.
Also, what's the best source for the gauge power and for the lighting power?
Any handy place for the grounds also?
x2 on the e-brake bolt for ground. I don't like fuse taps so I snuck in some T-taps in a location that will remain undisclosed unless you ask really nice
I thought the same thing. My buddy told me it needed constant power. I tried it keyed and it wouldnt read anything. Hit a constant power source and it instantly read.
y'all are making me not want Autometers for my F-150!!! Y'alls Autometers are a PITA compared to EV2's from the sounds of it. F-150 is getting 6 guage. The tach will be autometer so I was thinking of getting the others in AM also, but after seeing the $1k price tag they would cost me I have second thoughts. lol
I've never installed EV2's but I've installed 2 sets of EV's and one set of Autometer Z series (I think) and the Autometers were actually simpler because they don't require the amp boxes like the Isspro EV's have. I put a lot of effort into my OBS gauge install to hide all the wiring and make it appear as factory as possible and I think it turned out nice. You'd be hard pressed to find my amp boxes without cheating by following the wires from the pillar down
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