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Autometer Pyro questions...

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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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Autometer Pyro questions...

Hopefully installing my new gauges this week.

Anyone running autometer Z series or similar...

Pyro:
1. The red and yellow wires go to the sender, one ground and one "key on" positive for the bulb, and the last two are a ground and is the actual gauge power wire a constant hot or key-on?
Can't find the wiring info for the pyro...

2. Probe is a 1/8-27 NPT... What size drill bit do I use for the hole in the manifold before I tap it?
Also I think I know someone with a Tap for it, but if not where can I find one that I can rent/borrow?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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The drill bit is a size R... 0.339". Gauge power should be key on source.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 11:26 AM
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Looking at some other gauge installs from Glowshift and Bullydog they show the gauge power as a constant 12v source... just want to be sure.

Size R? Never heard of it... I think the autometer site said 5/16" but I'll have to find it again and check.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:00 PM
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When I installed Autometers in my buddy's SD we wired it to switched +12v and he doesn't have any problems. Why the hell would you want power to the gauges when the key is off??? Makes no sense...
5/16" is 0.3125 FYI... pretty close.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:05 PM
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Autometer Boost Gauge instructions

Autometer pyro instructions

Autometer trans temp instructions
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:08 PM
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Yep, I got autometer ultralites, what Chase said.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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My cobalt has to have a constant 12 v source. Tried with a keyed source and it wouldn't read.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:00 PM
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Thanks Chase. Just wanted to be sure about the wiring.

Originally Posted by bad12jr
My cobalt has to have a constant 12 v source. Tried with a keyed source and it wouldn't read.
I wonder why they need a constant source. You aren't using it when the truck is turned off...
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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Also, what's the best source for the gauge power and for the lighting power?

Any handy place for the grounds also?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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For the ground i used the ebrake bolts. I used fuse taps for my power and lighting. It was much easier and much cleaner than splicing wires.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Brown Falcon
Also, what's the best source for the gauge power and for the lighting power?

Any handy place for the grounds also?
x2 on the e-brake bolt for ground. I don't like fuse taps so I snuck in some T-taps in a location that will remain undisclosed unless you ask really nice
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:46 PM
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I thought the same thing. My buddy told me it needed constant power. I tried it keyed and it wouldnt read anything. Hit a constant power source and it instantly read.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 02:36 PM
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y'all are making me not want Autometers for my F-150!!! Y'alls Autometers are a PITA compared to EV2's from the sounds of it. F-150 is getting 6 guage. The tach will be autometer so I was thinking of getting the others in AM also, but after seeing the $1k price tag they would cost me I have second thoughts. lol
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 03:27 PM
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I've never installed EV2's but I've installed 2 sets of EV's and one set of Autometer Z series (I think) and the Autometers were actually simpler because they don't require the amp boxes like the Isspro EV's have. I put a lot of effort into my OBS gauge install to hide all the wiring and make it appear as factory as possible and I think it turned out nice. You'd be hard pressed to find my amp boxes without cheating by following the wires from the pillar down
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 06:19 PM
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Thanks guys. I THINK I have it figured out where to get power from.

But Chase, would you tell me where you put in your T-splice? Pretty please with a cherry on top?
 
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