Alternator current output for project
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New User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Calgary, AB. Canada
Alternator current output for project
Hi guys,
I live in saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada. Temperatures can can get as low as -50C in the winter. I inconveniently have to park my 89 f250 7.3IDI on the street with no place to plug it in.
So I had the idea to get two more batteries, hook them in parallel and run a DC to AC inverter off them in the bed of my truck to power my block heater.
I know the two batteries that are in the truck now, are hooked in parallel, so if I was to hook my two additional batteries through a switch to the alternator, I will be doubling the current drawn from the alternator. Does anyone know if the stock alternator will be able to supply the required current to charge all four batteries?
I live in saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada. Temperatures can can get as low as -50C in the winter. I inconveniently have to park my 89 f250 7.3IDI on the street with no place to plug it in.
So I had the idea to get two more batteries, hook them in parallel and run a DC to AC inverter off them in the bed of my truck to power my block heater.
I know the two batteries that are in the truck now, are hooked in parallel, so if I was to hook my two additional batteries through a switch to the alternator, I will be doubling the current drawn from the alternator. Does anyone know if the stock alternator will be able to supply the required current to charge all four batteries?
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New User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Calgary, AB. Canada
I have a little bit of experience with programming microcontrollers, and I thought it would be a cool project if I could have a temp sensor that would kick this apparatus on when the ambient temp drops below -5C. I would have a switch in the cab to disconnect the two additional batteries from the alternator when the truck is off so I won't be pulling from the supply batteries already in the truck. I could then flip the switch to charge the additional batteries when the truck is running.
I could program a PIC microcontroller to read from a temp sensor to supply the needed voltage and current to the DC to AC inverter and power my block heater.
Does this sound like a good idea? Can anyone see anything that i am overlooking, other than the current supplied by the alternator?
Thanks,
-Pete
I could program a PIC microcontroller to read from a temp sensor to supply the needed voltage and current to the DC to AC inverter and power my block heater.
Does this sound like a good idea? Can anyone see anything that i am overlooking, other than the current supplied by the alternator?
Thanks,
-Pete
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 950
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From: West Bend
I think your block heater will kill your 2 heater batteries in very short order. Not to mention you'll need a pretty hefty (and pricey) power inverter. Also, my power inverter has a "self preserve" mode build in that automatically shuts the inverter off when the voltage drops to about 12v. A feature like that is rather counter-productive for your use. Just something to keep in mind when looking at the inverter.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
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From: Higginsville, MO
how far away is the street from your house.... couldnt you just get one hell of an extension cord?
RIDGID 100 Ft. 10/3 SJTW cord - AW62628 at The Home Depot
RIDGID 100 Ft. 10/3 SJTW cord - AW62628 at The Home Depot
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
There are heaters that the semi's use that are diesel fuel, and only use a small amount of current. (Webasto is one make that I know of)
Another option for your situation is to use a battery isolater to seperate the storage/heater batteries from your main batteries. At least then your engine batteries are full to provide full power for starting. Some number crunching on battery output, block heater power ratings and inverter power requirements would give you some ideas of what sort of time frame you might get from this route... I suspect that it might just be enough to get it warmed up, so if you turn it on at the right time it may work.
Of course, at those temps, fuel additives to prevent gelling, tip top glow plugs, battery cables, starter, etc are all essential too.
Another option for your situation is to use a battery isolater to seperate the storage/heater batteries from your main batteries. At least then your engine batteries are full to provide full power for starting. Some number crunching on battery output, block heater power ratings and inverter power requirements would give you some ideas of what sort of time frame you might get from this route... I suspect that it might just be enough to get it warmed up, so if you turn it on at the right time it may work.
Of course, at those temps, fuel additives to prevent gelling, tip top glow plugs, battery cables, starter, etc are all essential too.
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 288
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From: Oregon
depends on which stock alt u have 65/90A, wattage of heater used, and efficiency of inverter.
I'd upgrade to a 130A 3G alt or more in that situation. Also I picked up a 1800W AC inverter for about 60$.
If it were my situation, I have a 600W heater in the radiator hose, dual group 31s with 950cca each and a 130a alt, if I had another pair dedicated to the heater which would need around 50 amps DC plus extra for the inefficiency of inverters.
So in essence it could likely work, just might have to do some upgrades
I'd upgrade to a 130A 3G alt or more in that situation. Also I picked up a 1800W AC inverter for about 60$.
If it were my situation, I have a 600W heater in the radiator hose, dual group 31s with 950cca each and a 130a alt, if I had another pair dedicated to the heater which would need around 50 amps DC plus extra for the inefficiency of inverters.
So in essence it could likely work, just might have to do some upgrades
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From: Calgary, AB. Canada
Thanks guys for the responses.
I have to park my truck across the street and about 250 feet from my condo, so running an extension cord across the driveway and across the road might make my neighbors a little ticked off.
I was unaware that the block heaters are such pigs... I read somewhere that a truck should be plugged in for about 4 hours before it is started to ensure minimal wear and tear on the engine. Is this a must? Or can I get away with running my heater for about 2 hours before starting? Will the engine/oil/coolant be warm enough to start in very cold temps?
It is sounding that this won't be the cheapest of projects, but i do need to be using my truck in the winter...
I have to park my truck across the street and about 250 feet from my condo, so running an extension cord across the driveway and across the road might make my neighbors a little ticked off.
I was unaware that the block heaters are such pigs... I read somewhere that a truck should be plugged in for about 4 hours before it is started to ensure minimal wear and tear on the engine. Is this a must? Or can I get away with running my heater for about 2 hours before starting? Will the engine/oil/coolant be warm enough to start in very cold temps?
It is sounding that this won't be the cheapest of projects, but i do need to be using my truck in the winter...
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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What I would do in this situation, is run a pair of extra batteries in parallel to those in the truck already - this will give you total of four batteries, so double the power output capabilities as far as glow time and crank time are concerned. My truck fires up at -20C on just plugs with two glow cycles and 5 seconds of cranking, I'm thinking of adding a grid heater with two extra batteries to help it start ever faster when it gets evil cold...
About the heater, I used to wake up about three hours before I have to leave and run outside to plug the truck in and then go back to bed for two more hours of sleep, truck ran shorter glow times and fired almost instantly this way, plus there was heat coming out the vents on the dash right away. However, I have noticed that even one hour is enough to make the coolant noticeably warm, which is essentially what you want for an easy start.
About the heater, I used to wake up about three hours before I have to leave and run outside to plug the truck in and then go back to bed for two more hours of sleep, truck ran shorter glow times and fired almost instantly this way, plus there was heat coming out the vents on the dash right away. However, I have noticed that even one hour is enough to make the coolant noticeably warm, which is essentially what you want for an easy start.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
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From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Recommendations are 2 hours prior ...
4 batteries in parallel will result in 4 dead batteries when you want to start your truck!
They need to be isolated so the heater can only draw from the two additional batteries!
A motorhome isolator is all thats needed to do the whole setup properly!
I designed a system about 40 years ago that uses two standard Ford Starter relays to isolate a standby battery in case the mains die, I have never written it up, maybe while I'm laying here I will if I can remember how I did it, it's been a long time!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
4 batteries in parallel will result in 4 dead batteries when you want to start your truck!
They need to be isolated so the heater can only draw from the two additional batteries!
A motorhome isolator is all thats needed to do the whole setup properly!
I designed a system about 40 years ago that uses two standard Ford Starter relays to isolate a standby battery in case the mains die, I have never written it up, maybe while I'm laying here I will if I can remember how I did it, it's been a long time!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 26,337
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From: Paradise Found!
I have 4 batteries and a marine battery switch in my service truck. I run a 5,000 watt inverter off 1 set, and use the other set for my 7.3. The nice thing is if one set gets low (the inverter set usually) I can start the engine, switch the fresh bats over to the inverter, and charge the other set.
Last winter I got stuck on a job site that had no power. The next morning (-20f) I used the inverter to warm up the engine for about an hour and fired it right up.
I used a system like this: How to Wire a Marine Battery Switch | eHow.com
Last winter I got stuck on a job site that had no power. The next morning (-20f) I used the inverter to warm up the engine for about an hour and fired it right up.
I used a system like this: How to Wire a Marine Battery Switch | eHow.com
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 26,337
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From: Paradise Found!
Sorry, theres a battery isolator between the 200amp alt and the batteries........
It has another nice feature also. There is a female 120vac plug in the side, and when you plug it in in the winter it has a battery charger to keep the batteries charged, a block heater, a 120v waterpump (to circulate the water) and a 120v blower! It keeps the cab and servicebox toasty, no ice on the windows.......
And when you start the truck it "kicks-out" the 120v plug from the side!
It has another nice feature also. There is a female 120vac plug in the side, and when you plug it in in the winter it has a battery charger to keep the batteries charged, a block heater, a 120v waterpump (to circulate the water) and a 120v blower! It keeps the cab and servicebox toasty, no ice on the windows.......
And when you start the truck it "kicks-out" the 120v plug from the side!
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Oregon
Sorry, theres a battery isolator between the 200amp alt and the batteries........
It has another nice feature also. There is a female 120vac plug in the side, and when you plug it in in the winter it has a battery charger to keep the batteries charged, a block heater, a 120v waterpump (to circulate the water) and a 120v blower! It keeps the cab and servicebox toasty, no ice on the windows.......
And when you start the truck it "kicks-out" the 120v plug from the side!
It has another nice feature also. There is a female 120vac plug in the side, and when you plug it in in the winter it has a battery charger to keep the batteries charged, a block heater, a 120v waterpump (to circulate the water) and a 120v blower! It keeps the cab and servicebox toasty, no ice on the windows.......
And when you start the truck it "kicks-out" the 120v plug from the side!
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LipschitzWrath
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