4WD OPPORTUNITY?
Are the 73's different to the point of making it impractical to put the 4x4 parts on my 72? Is it worth it? I know just enough to give me headaches about the 72 and earlier 4x4's having single speed transfer cases and closed knuckle joints on the front axles and the 73 and newer having better? set ups ie open knuckles and 2 speed transfers but I don't have a clue on how they would differ with relation to the frame and mounting set ups.
Basically, if it requires more than just " bolting on " I don't want to make the investment. I haven't even seen the 73 yet so I don't know what shape it is in. My guess is the body is probably very rough assuming it is a North east truck.
If it is an easy swap I was going to go up there with half of what he is asking in hand. If the chassis looks sound I'll offer him that.
Any knowledge is appreciated. Todd.
Are the 73's different to the point of making it impractical to put the 4x4 parts on my 72? Is it worth it? I know just enough to give me headaches about the 72 and earlier 4x4's having single speed transfer cases and closed knuckle joints on the front axles and the 73 and newer having better? set ups ie open knuckles and 2 speed transfers but I don't have a clue on how they would differ with relation to the frame and mounting set ups.
Basically, if it requires more than just " bolting on " I don't want to make the investment. I haven't even seen the 73 yet so I don't know what shape it is in. My guess is the body is probably very rough assuming it is a North east truck.
If it is an easy swap I was going to go up there with half of what he is asking in hand. If the chassis looks sound I'll offer him that.
Any knowledge is appreciated. Todd.
I know the easy thing is to swap sheet metal but my 72 is essentially rust free all over
I believe that your '72 sheet metal would bolt up to the '73 frame relatively easily. Gotcha's might include the steering box and transmission linkage. I believe that the '73 frame is 2 inches longer and is wider in some areas.
That sound like a reasonable price and might be worth it just for the axles.
Good luck.
Not to mention, I would have to pull the 428 out of my 72. Again not sure but I think the 73 has a 360 in it. If I got it, it wouldn't stay a 360 for long.
What was the point of the 360 anyway? Never did understand Ford having the 360 and 390?
John
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1967/76 F250 4WD's and 1977 F250 4WD's before serial number Y20,001 are called High Boys by enthusiasts.
The 8' Cab & Chassis and pickups wheelbase 1973/79: 133" / 1967/72: 131"
All High Boys have rear frame rails that are 33 1 /2" apart, as do F100/350's prior to 1973.
1973/79 F100 2WD/4WD / 1975/79 F150 2WD/4WD / 1973/79 F250 2WD / 1977 (from serial number Y20,001) & 1978/79 F250 4WD's have rear frame rails 37 1/2" apart, as do 1973/79 F350's...except...on the 140" wheelbase.
Disc brakes were not available with 4WD until 1976, no P/S was available on 4WD's until 1973. 1973/77 4WD's offered Power Assist P/S only.
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There were no federal government EPA emission standards in 1968, because there was no such thing as the EPA. The EPA was Nixon's claim to fame, began in December 1970.
For years, Ford offered multiple engine choices that made very little sense to some people.
1968/76 F100/350 engine choices: 240 I-6 (1968/74) / 300 I-6 / 302 2V (1969/76 F100 & 1975/76 F150) / 360 2V / 390 2V / 390 4V (1974/76) / 460 4V (1973/76).
1977/79 F100/350 engine choices: 300 I-6 / 302 2V (1977/79 F100/150) / 351M 2V / 400 2V / 460 4V.
If you think this is insanity, the Passenger Car engine choices are mindboggling. For example, there were 3 different 351 engines. 351W (1969/79) / 351C (1970/74) / 351M (1975/79).
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