Really High-End Brakes
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Alaska
Really High-End Brakes
Has anybody seen some really nice brakes on a dent? I'm talking drilled and slotted 2-piece huge diameter rotors, 6 piston calipers.
I've seen lots of guys complain about stopping power, and complain about the price of really nice brakes, but I've never seen the better Wilwood, Baer, etc on one of these trucks. The Pro-Touring crowd doesn't even think twice about $6000 for all new brakes front and rear, but most of us are way too cheap for that. Has anybody done it? Because long-term, I'm sure thinking about it!
Probably have to have some custom brackets, but other than that the obstacle is always price.
anybody got pics?
I've seen lots of guys complain about stopping power, and complain about the price of really nice brakes, but I've never seen the better Wilwood, Baer, etc on one of these trucks. The Pro-Touring crowd doesn't even think twice about $6000 for all new brakes front and rear, but most of us are way too cheap for that. Has anybody done it? Because long-term, I'm sure thinking about it!
Probably have to have some custom brackets, but other than that the obstacle is always price.
anybody got pics?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2010
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I stay away from drilled rotors. If you heat them up then go splashing through cold water they crack there first. If you get a good (not eBay) set of "JUST" slotted rotors, new pads, and new calipers then I think it will be just fine. These trucks weren't meant to stop on a dime.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
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The stock dual piston calipers are pretty good items to start with. Just upgrade your brake lines to braided items for more braking pressure, consider a better master cylinder, and of course do the rear disk swap.
I have the braided front lines, dual chamber brake booster, and the rear disk parts are sitting on the shelf waiting for me to get around to it.
I have the braided front lines, dual chamber brake booster, and the rear disk parts are sitting on the shelf waiting for me to get around to it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Huntington WV
I am needing to replace the brakes on mine this winter. What is a good brand to go with an ones to stay away from? An were did you get a dual chamber brake booster at & what do you change out to go disc brakes on these trucks?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Mississippi
I stay away from drilled rotors. If you heat them up then go splashing through cold water they crack there first. If you get a good (not eBay) set of "JUST" slotted rotors, new pads, and new calipers then I think it will be just fine. These trucks weren't meant to stop on a dime.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Alaska
The stock dual piston calipers are pretty good items to start with. Just upgrade your brake lines to braided items for more braking pressure, consider a better master cylinder, and of course do the rear disk swap.
I have the braided front lines, dual chamber brake booster, and the rear disk parts are sitting on the shelf waiting for me to get around to it.
I have the braided front lines, dual chamber brake booster, and the rear disk parts are sitting on the shelf waiting for me to get around to it.
I stay away from drilled rotors. If you heat them up then go splashing through cold water they crack there first. If you get a good (not eBay) set of "JUST" slotted rotors, new pads, and new calipers then I think it will be just fine. These trucks weren't meant to stop on a dime.
I'd like to have a versatile street truck/4x4. I'm planning a cummins swap to improve gas mileage and torque so it's a more practical work truck. I plan to have sway bars like the newer truck have with detachable mounts so if I want to go off road and need articulation it won't be a problem. On the street I want it to handle better, stop better, and get some attention as my shop truck. I have felt the difference quality brakes make in a car, and it is a huge difference. Also a lot of it is heat. I don't trust those stock components in my town full of hills. the stock brakes are all fresh, and they get pretty warm sometimes, and i don't really hot rod this truck.
cosmetics. when I stick nice rims on it I don't want stock brakes. I don't want painted old brakes either. I want big diameter brakes that make it look more like a pro-touring truck.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Tennessee
Convert to a hydroboost system that works off the power steering pump and is not limited to engine vacuum for boost.
Perry
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: South East Michigan
I'm installing Wilwood 4 piston calipers on the rear and Ihave another set that I was going to try to make work in the front. I may also try a set of sStop Tech 6 piston calipers just not sure on the front rotor size and how it will all come togetther.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Alaska
got pictures? sounds like a winner
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2010
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Yeah ive done it. I have a 4wd so I heat up my rotors then drive through a creek then mud then heat up the rotors again so that's why I said that. You can also do this in the rain.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: South East Michigan
I'm still in the process of installing the rear stuff haven't looked at the front yet to see how I can make it work. I'll take some pics sometime this week and post them up.
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 669
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From: Tennessee
Here is an article from the oilburners.net you may have to register to view it. It goes through the process of converting one. I don't know about on your truck but the big 3/4 and 1 ton trucks have never had very good brakes at least the ones prior to the powerstroke era always had crappy soft brakes that you have to push to the floor to get any brakes at all especially pulling a load. The reason is the booster was not big enough so they would put in a small master cylinder that the booster could handle but it took alot of pedal to get them to stop.
Oilburners.net
Perry
Oilburners.net
Perry
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: in the netherlands
i have done this swap a few months ago on my F250 and its a hell of a difference.
andre