'96 5.8L Engine cuts-off while driving
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'96 5.8L Engine cuts-off while driving
I have been trying to solve this problem for 3 months, any help from the Gods of Bronco Knowledge would be appreciated.
Engine cuts-out while driving. It is independent of the speed of the engine (rpm), the speed of the Bronco (mph), temperature of the engine, or the amount of gas in the tank. If I am driving fast enough to let the truck coast, it will start running again after about 5 seconds. If I am going slow and need to pull over, it will take about 5 tries to start the engine. No error codes are stored when this happens. Check Engine light does not illuminate. Based on reviewing other threads, I have done the following:
New Air Filter
New coil
New Spark Plugs
New Spark Plug Wires
New Distributor Cap
New Ignition Control Module (first the gray one, now has the black one)
New Crankshaft Position Sensor
No vacuum leaks (checked with starting fluid)
Cleaned all the ground connections
Pushed/Pulled/Twisted all wiring harnesses while the engine is running and it doesn't kill the engine.
HELP!
1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.8L<!-- / message --><!-- edit note -->
Engine cuts-out while driving. It is independent of the speed of the engine (rpm), the speed of the Bronco (mph), temperature of the engine, or the amount of gas in the tank. If I am driving fast enough to let the truck coast, it will start running again after about 5 seconds. If I am going slow and need to pull over, it will take about 5 tries to start the engine. No error codes are stored when this happens. Check Engine light does not illuminate. Based on reviewing other threads, I have done the following:
New Air Filter
New coil
New Spark Plugs
New Spark Plug Wires
New Distributor Cap
New Ignition Control Module (first the gray one, now has the black one)
New Crankshaft Position Sensor
No vacuum leaks (checked with starting fluid)
Cleaned all the ground connections
Pushed/Pulled/Twisted all wiring harnesses while the engine is running and it doesn't kill the engine.
HELP!
1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.8L<!-- / message --><!-- edit note -->
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 259
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From: Great Falls Mt
Check all those little plugs that connect the trucks wiring to the control modual. They can rot and corrode out and cause some issues. Ive seen replacements available somewhere online so I know you can get new ones if thats your issue. Do you have a Tach in your truck? If so does the tach drop to 0 when this happpens? That would be a good indicator if it is ignition or fuel related. Also check the wires under the dash that plug into the top of your column there. If the little rod that slides down and connect all the pins when you turn the key is getting worn, or one of the prongs (in this case the one that keeps it running) is worn or damaged that could cause your problem too.
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Flint, thanks fo rthe reply. I installed a new Ignition Control Module when it first started to happen. BTW, it is on the firewall instead of the distributor. I also experienced the pain of attempting to buy a new ICM at the parts store. The one they sell is wrong (it is gray) for the '96 and gives error codes. The correct one is black. If you ask for an ICM for a '96 F150 with the straight 6 engine they will give you the correct one.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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Hey Cope,
Thanks for the reply. I have tried to wiggle all the wire connections to the ICM, but can't make the engine stall. My tach does go to 0 when the engine stalls, didn't think about that indicating an ignition failure, thanks for that bit of info. I'll try the ignition switch next.
Thanks for the reply. I have tried to wiggle all the wire connections to the ICM, but can't make the engine stall. My tach does go to 0 when the engine stalls, didn't think about that indicating an ignition failure, thanks for that bit of info. I'll try the ignition switch next.
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 639
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From: houston
Try swapping out the distributor with one that you know is good. I had the same problem with my `90 F-150. Found that the PIP sensor would get overheated and shut it down until it cooled off a little. If that is the problem you can get a replacemet sensor for about $20 and swap it out. I had to use a press to get the distributor gear off.I hope this helps because I`ve been their.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
The ICM is NOT on the dist. in a 96. Ford moved the module to the driver's inner fender between the power distro. and the hood spring hinge in late 1991 and it stayed there through the end of production. I only mention it because its good advice but you won't find it on the dist.
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I had this same problem a few months back. Tried replaceing fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and eventually found out it was the PIP sensor. Its cheap but getting it out of the distributor was rough cuz my rotor was stuck. But its an easy fix to a somewhat crazy problem.
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