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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 02:47 PM
  #16  
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Got looking under the dash today and found the bundle of wires for the upfitter switches. Instead of the four wires described in the on-line literature I see a bundle of 12 blunt-cut and shrink-wrapped wires. What's up with that?

I am thinking if using the 25A #1 or #2 upfitter switch to power the 12V outlet under the front middle seat. The challenge will be (a) how to get the wire there and (b) how to get that 12V socket out for re-wiring.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #17  
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Anyone know what the 110 outlet rating is for amps? I have a 110v outlet and wondering what sort of amps does it put out?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by summet20
Anyone know what the 110 outlet rating is for amps? I have a 110v outlet and wondering what sort of amps does it put out?
I may be completely incorrect with my math here but my guess is 1.36 amps since the plug is 110v and is rated for 150 watts.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 02:38 PM
  #19  
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using ohm's law, it's 1.25 max amps on the circuit @ 150w if we assume that the "110v" is actually "120v", which it may or may not be. *usually* AC power is generated at 120v and diminished to 110v by the time it gets to the plug in your house. Inverters are sometimes configured to supply 120v while being labeled 110... it would take a voltmeter to really know... and either way it really won't matter

since amps = watts / volts
1.25 = 150 / 120

it's better to assume 120v and err on the side of caution. whatever you plug in won't really care if it's 110 or 120... I personally wouldn't put more than a 1.1 amp load on it anyway. most things that one might plug into the builtin inverter will be rated at less than 150w and less than 1amp. using a power strip or other multi-plug device there is not recommended.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 03:00 PM
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ok thanks for the info. Was just planning on charging out power drills before we get to the jobsites in the mornings. Maybe just do one battery at a time then.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by summet20
ok thanks for the info. Was just planning on charging out power drills before we get to the jobsites in the mornings. Maybe just do one battery at a time then.
Some devices require pure sine wave and I have no idea if this built in inverter is so keep that in mind.

As djjoshuad said, erroring on the side of caution is always a good rule.

On a side note, I have 119v at the AC plug to my PC according to the volt meter. I've never seen 100v and would actually concern me but voltage all depends on the area.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 08:45 AM
  #22  
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you just made me notice a typo in my post . I meant that it diminishes to 110, not 100v. 100v might be cause for alarm lol

regarding pure sine wave, I would assume that this inverter does not generate pure sine. Not many devices require it, especially not ones that a typical person would bring into the truck, but it is a good thing to check for.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #23  
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Today I connected one line (Aux 3) to a 12v outlet I added under the dash, and I plugged my GPS into that. So now the GPS turns on and off with the ignition, or I can leave the switch off and leave the GPS off.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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I have installed a few inverters and I would suggest using the upfitter switch with a relay to maybe trigger the inverter but not for direct power hook up. Here is some info from a 400 watt SW inverter I'm going to install in the truck.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For the best load starting performance, the DC cables should be as short
and large as possible. See Table 2-1 for minimum recommended cable
size. Using a smaller cable may cause the inverter to shut down under
heavy load. A larger cable may be used.
Table 2-1
Minimum Recommended DC Input Cable (copper) — AWG

Cable Length: Battery to Inverter
(each cable)
Minimum Recommended
Cable Size — AWG
0–10 feet (0–3 meters) No. 6
10–15 feet (3–4.5 meters) No. 4
15–30 feet (4.5–9 meters) No. 2
30–40 feet (9–12 meters) No. 0
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hope this helps.

Rick
 
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 05:40 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by kper05
Some devices require pure sine wave and I have no idea if this built in inverter is so keep that in mind..
Good point! I was very happy to find that this factory inverter does provide clean enough power to charge the Makita Li-ion 18V batts, which requires a nice sine wave. That darn Makita charger is more sensitive than my computer!
 
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 04:45 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by geodude
Got looking under the dash today and found the bundle of wires for the upfitter switches. Instead of the four wires described in the on-line literature I see a bundle of 12 blunt-cut and shrink-wrapped wires. What's up with that?....
That group of wires is for the SEIC/PTO controls. The four wires for the upfitters are closer to the dash and there are only four wires in that bundle. Just so you will know.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 04:27 PM
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Ok, got another one wired up. I took apart the the lower centre storage bin under the front middle seat, removed the 12V outlet that's in the bin, then clipped the always-on wire that leads to the 12V outlet, and tapped in a new wire that I ran from the Aux 1 upfitter switch. It now powers a small inverter and two 12V outlets for the rear seat.

So now if the kids are acting up I can threaten to turn off all their electronic toys. Heh heh heh.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 07:53 PM
  #28  
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HELLO,
I want to have a 110 outlet in my truck dash. Do I have to have an inverter between the battery and the 110 outlet? Any ideas for me?
 
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