1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

F-1 F-2 F-3

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  #1  
Old 09-13-2010, 11:04 PM
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F-1 F-2 F-3

I know a F-1 is a 1/2 ton what are the rest???
 
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:16 PM
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3/4 and 1, the "nominal" terms for that range of trucks. Actual payload capacity was probably higher than the nominal amount even for those years.
 
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:23 PM
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Thanx for the info
Can they be made into an F-1
 
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:54 PM
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Sure, just find an F1 and transfer the running gear over to it....
 
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
3/4 and 1, the "nominal" terms for that range of trucks. Actual payload capacity was probably higher than the nominal amount even for those years.
BZZZT. Wrong! Actually, the F2 was a light 3/4 ton, the F3 a heavy 3/4 ton, and the F4 a tonner. That is why, in 1953, the 3/4 ton was designated an F250, since it spanned the two previous 3/4 tonners, and the tonner was the F350 since it spanned the F3 and F4, or so I've read. The F1 was simply made into the F100 since there was no overlap in this range.

I do st@ 2b corrected!
 
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:55 PM
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I was an embryo at the time....please forgive me.
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
Sure, just find an F1 and transfer the running gear over to it....
Not that easy. First off, the wheelbase is different between the F1 and F2/F3. Second, the beds are different. F1 beds are 6 ft and narrow, while F2/F3 beds are 8 ft and wider. Third, the rear fenders are different on the F2/F3 than on the F1 to accomodate for the wider bed. The running boards are different. The rear ends are different. The front fenders are slightly different. F2/F3 have larger wheel openings than the F1. Plus, wheels are different size, with F2/F3 usually being 17". Needless to say, the bolt patterns are different.

The only parts that are the same are the cab/doors, hood, grille, front axle, and steering box/column.

The F2/F3 to F1 conversions have been attempted by many, but completed by few.

If you want an F1, then I suggest you find yourself one. You'll be miles ahead on your project. Lastly, F1 parts are easier to come by than F2/F3 specific parts. Try finding a good F2/F3 bed....
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 1952
BZZZT. Wrong! Actually, the F2 was a light 3/4 ton, the F3 a heavy 3/4 ton, and the F4 a tonner. That is why, in 1953, the 3/4 ton was designated an F250, since it spanned the two previous 3/4 tonners, and the tonner was the F350 since it spanned the F3 and F4, or so I've read. The F1 was simply made into the F100 since there was no overlap in this range.

I do st@ 2b corrected!
Unless you live in Canada. If I've read correctly, the F-2 wasn't sold in Canada, and the F-3s, M-3s, F-68s and M-68s were sold there as one tons. Like Owen, though, I'll accept being corrected. But I've never heard of there being a F-57 model or M-57 model. And I don't know how the F-4 was sold up there. If it were labeled the same as the F-68s it would be an F-100 to reflect it's 10,000 lb. weight rating. I think we'd have heard of that confusion. I do know that the F-5 was sold there as a F-135. Stu
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:22 AM
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Well I think the part of the whole discussion that may make it confusing is that the vehicles were not ever documented as half ton or one ton, etc. They are rated by their gross vehicle weight rating.

And that's not that easy either. Why, because the GVWR was heavily dependant on tires. For example the F3 had a 1200 pound - that's more than a half ton of GVWR variance (on a "Heavy 3/4" ton or "One ton" truck) - just between different types of tires!

Now logically one would think that you could just subtract the curb weight of each vehicle from the GVWR, and come up with the payload rating, and call it a "half ton" right? Well the math doesn't work. In that case each of the vehicles will carry almost half again as much cargo and the payload rating at "half ton," "one ton," etc, and stay within it's GVWR.

For example, the F1 (1/2 ton truck) is actually 3/4 ton rated. With the 6.50x16 tires and a GVW rating of 4700 pounds the F1 with a V8 has a curb weight of 3260 pounds - for a net cargo weight capacity of 1560 pounds. That's over 3/4 ton - even in Canada.

Here are the GVWR Specifications for the 51s. The other years 48-50, and 52are going to be VERY close I'll let you guys do the math:

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As a final note: US built Ford trucks from 48- (at least) 52 were NEVER refered to as "1/2 ton", "1 ton", etc, in ANY US Ford documentation. They were always classified and refered to by their GVW rating.
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:01 AM
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I'll post a picture later this morning of a couple pages from the 1948 Bonus Built Truck Operator's Manual showing them as F1=1/2, F2=3/4, F3=3/4 HD, F4=1, F5=1.5, F6=2, F7=2.5 and F8=3 ton models. It is a Ford publication....
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:22 AM
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That would be EXCELLENT! And it would be something I've never seen before!

They must have changed it, because it isn't listed that way in the 48 - 51 Operators Manuals, any of the Chassis Catalogs or Shop Manuals I have here!

And this is a US Ford Pub, right? Not Canadian?
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:17 AM
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Julie - Open your '51 handbook to page 3 of the Full Line Summary section. You'll find it there. In the '52 handbook it's on page 14. Stu
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan
The only parts that are the same are the cab/doors, hood, grille, front axle, and steering box/column.

The F2/F3 to F1 conversions have been attempted by many, but completed by few.

Lastly, F1 parts are easier to come by than F2/F3 specific parts. Try finding a good F2/F3 bed....
Guess I'm one of the few.

I think the key to converting an F-2 or F-3 to an F-1 has to do with the parts it comes with. Like Panelman says the only body parts that are the same are the cab, doors, hood, and grille. So if you find an old F-3 that has those good parts and needs everything else then it might be more feasible to convert it than one which has good fenders, bed, and running boards. My F-3 came with a good cab, hood, and doors but no bed or rear fenders. I had to replace the front and rear fenders, running boards, and the bed so it was actually less expensive for me to shorten the frame and buy F-1 parts than try to find good F-3 parts.
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:22 AM
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I think we need a sticky on this, entitled "If you want an F-1, Buy an F-1"

There is one advantage to buying an F-2; the crossmember for the big 4-sp will clear just about any modern tranny whereas the F-1 LD 3-sp crossmember doesn't work for much of anything modern. That is an advantage if you are going darkside, of course.

Another disadvantage is that you'll need to create a complete new e-brake system (assuming it has the drum on the driveshaft).
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:24 AM
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I was at a local swap meet and a fellow had nice F1 rear fenders (4) for $50 apiece; he also had a clean cab he had cut up to take to the scrapper since he couldn't get rid of it. I have his number if someone wants it, providing it is not too late.
 


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