Confused about Rear Blocks
Confused about Rear Blocks
Ok, so I'm about to order a Rough Country leveling spring kit tomorrow, and I was was also thinking about doing the 350 blocks in the rear. I read the tech article on doing this and was looking at his height differences, which seemed normal, but I was thinking it would be less for my truck because for some reason (and I can't remember where I heard this) because I was under the impression that FX4 250's came with 3" blocks in the rear as apposed to 2" blocks on regular 4X4's. However, I measured mine today and it was a regular 2" block. But if that's not the case, then why is it that everyone on here says that if you have a FX4 then you won't need to do add-a-leafs in the rear for the leveling kit but if you have a regular 4X4 then you will because the front will sit slightly higher?
Whenever you see a SRW F350 you can always tell because they have a lot bigger stance about them...looks more beastly. But if they come with a 4" rear block and the same front suspension as the F250's then seems like that would have a lot more noticeable plow to them but they don't, they actually look like they have more ground clearance all together...why is that?
Whenever you see a SRW F350 you can always tell because they have a lot bigger stance about them...looks more beastly. But if they come with a 4" rear block and the same front suspension as the F250's then seems like that would have a lot more noticeable plow to them but they don't, they actually look like they have more ground clearance all together...why is that?
I can't say I've completely figured out the rear block thing either. I can tell you though that the instructions that came with my leveling kits specifically said:
Now, I don't know what truck comes with 2.5" blocks, but obviously 2" blocks would leave it even more nose high.
From all of my research, it appears that a stock truck (with 2" blocks) should have 1.5" of rake. So a 2.5" level kit requires 1" of rear add-a-leafs to reach true level. If you install 4" F350 blocks you are left 1" out of level (1.5 - 2.5 + 2 = 1), so you only gain 1/2" closer to true level. Confused yet?
All I know is I put a 2.5" level kit and 4" blocks on my truck, and it appears to sit perfectly level. But I have a service body that weighs about 800lbs more than a standard truck bed so I figure it must squat an extra inch in the back to make up the difference!
If the vehicle that you are working on has a 2.5” stock rear block, the 2.5” leveling system is not going to level the vehicle. Too much height is going to be gained in the front end. To level the vehicle, new rear add-a-leafs are needed to be installed.
From all of my research, it appears that a stock truck (with 2" blocks) should have 1.5" of rake. So a 2.5" level kit requires 1" of rear add-a-leafs to reach true level. If you install 4" F350 blocks you are left 1" out of level (1.5 - 2.5 + 2 = 1), so you only gain 1/2" closer to true level. Confused yet?

All I know is I put a 2.5" level kit and 4" blocks on my truck, and it appears to sit perfectly level. But I have a service body that weighs about 800lbs more than a standard truck bed so I figure it must squat an extra inch in the back to make up the difference!
I can't say I've completely figured out the rear block thing either. I can tell you though that the instructions that came with my leveling kits specifically said:
Now, I don't know what truck comes with 2.5" blocks, but obviously 2" blocks would leave it even more nose high.
From all of my research, it appears that a stock truck (with 2" blocks) should have 1.5" of rake. So a 2.5" level kit requires 1" of rear add-a-leafs to reach true level. If you install 4" F350 blocks you are left 1" out of level (1.5 - 2.5 + 2 = 1), so you only gain 1/2" closer to true level. Confused yet?
All I know is I put a 2.5" level kit and 4" blocks on my truck, and it appears to sit perfectly level. But I have a service body that weighs about 800lbs more than a standard truck bed so I figure it must squat an extra inch in the back to make up the difference!
Now, I don't know what truck comes with 2.5" blocks, but obviously 2" blocks would leave it even more nose high.
From all of my research, it appears that a stock truck (with 2" blocks) should have 1.5" of rake. So a 2.5" level kit requires 1" of rear add-a-leafs to reach true level. If you install 4" F350 blocks you are left 1" out of level (1.5 - 2.5 + 2 = 1), so you only gain 1/2" closer to true level. Confused yet?

All I know is I put a 2.5" level kit and 4" blocks on my truck, and it appears to sit perfectly level. But I have a service body that weighs about 800lbs more than a standard truck bed so I figure it must squat an extra inch in the back to make up the difference!
There is an option for both the 250 and 350 called a "camper package". It upgrades the springs in the front which actually makes the 250 sit level (without a load in the bed), and on the 350 makes the truck sit with the rear only slightly higher than the front.
When I had a 350 it was a perfect combo. I ordered it on my '08 250 and would like to change the rear over to 350 blocks as when you load anything in the bed or pull a trailer it rides too low in the rear for my taste.
When I had a 350 it was a perfect combo. I ordered it on my '08 250 and would like to change the rear over to 350 blocks as when you load anything in the bed or pull a trailer it rides too low in the rear for my taste.
Hopefully Brandon or someone shows up to clarify this.
But from what I remember, the 250 comes with 2 1/2" or so rear blocks and the 350 comes with around a 3 1/2" block. On a 350, the 2" leveling kit seems to sit alright unless you're loaded down heavy. On a 250, I believe a 2 1/2" leveling kit and sticking a 4" block in the rear will give you a slight rear high rake to the truck, but it looks almost level.
But from what I remember, the 250 comes with 2 1/2" or so rear blocks and the 350 comes with around a 3 1/2" block. On a 350, the 2" leveling kit seems to sit alright unless you're loaded down heavy. On a 250, I believe a 2 1/2" leveling kit and sticking a 4" block in the rear will give you a slight rear high rake to the truck, but it looks almost level.
You have to look at how your truck currently sits and how much front leveling you plan on.
Most 250's typically sit level but may be a little low in the front depending on your OEM front spring rate and engine.
For arguments sake ALL 250's come with a 2" block, FX4 or otherwise and all 350's come with the 4" block. No, their not exactly 2" (~1 7/8) and 4" (~3 5/8) but you wont see the difference either way anyway.
Most 250's typically sit level but may be a little low in the front depending on your OEM front spring rate and engine.
For arguments sake ALL 250's come with a 2" block, FX4 or otherwise and all 350's come with the 4" block. No, their not exactly 2" (~1 7/8) and 4" (~3 5/8) but you wont see the difference either way anyway.
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Look at it this way for example:
My 250 stock (w/2" block) was pretty level but a tad higher in the rear.
I added a 2.5" front level kit (closer to 3") bringing the front now about 1.5-2" higher than the rear.
Now adding the 4" block (~2" higher than the 2" block) i now sit perfectly level.
My 250 stock (w/2" block) was pretty level but a tad higher in the rear.
I added a 2.5" front level kit (closer to 3") bringing the front now about 1.5-2" higher than the rear.
Now adding the 4" block (~2" higher than the 2" block) i now sit perfectly level.
Well I guess I'll determine it for everybody. Probably what I will do is order my leveling kit tomorrow, I'll take some pictures before the leveling kit, after the leveling kit, and then if I decide I want to do the blocks (which I'm pretty sure I will), I'll take some pictures after that and we can see the difference at all three stages. Maybe it can be added into the tech folder with the other 350 block guy's post.
Well I guess I'll determine it for everybody.
It is simply a matter of measurements.
With your truck on level ground, measure from the ground to wheel well opening front and rear. write down the results.
If your adding for example a front 2" kit or whatever, add that number to your stock front measurement.
With those measurements you will see how much higher the front will be from the rear, give or take. If your 1" to 1.5" higher in the front than the rear than the 350 block should put you pretty close to level.
Well I guess I'll determine it for everybody. Probably what I will do is order my leveling kit tomorrow, I'll take some pictures before the leveling kit, after the leveling kit, and then if I decide I want to do the blocks (which I'm pretty sure I will), I'll take some pictures after that and we can see the difference at all three stages. Maybe it can be added into the tech folder with the other 350 block guy's post.
This brings me to a similar question. My 03 F-250 4X4 with a 5.4 stands pretty good, but when I pull up to another SD, weather it be a 250 or 350, mine looks like it sits lower. Any ideas?
Not quite sure what you mean. It isn't rocket science.
It is simply a matter of measurements.
With your truck on level ground, measure from the ground to wheel well opening front and rear. write down the results.
If your adding for example a front 2" kit or whatever, add that number to your stock front measurement.
With those measurements you will see how much higher the front will be from the rear, give or take. If your 1" to 1.5" higher in the front than the rear than the 350 block should put you pretty close to level.
It is simply a matter of measurements.
With your truck on level ground, measure from the ground to wheel well opening front and rear. write down the results.
If your adding for example a front 2" kit or whatever, add that number to your stock front measurement.
With those measurements you will see how much higher the front will be from the rear, give or take. If your 1" to 1.5" higher in the front than the rear than the 350 block should put you pretty close to level.
Yes, I agree
So with every truck there are always variables when it comes to spring heights, being spring rates, options, engines, vehicle age etc.. Thus having actual measurements of "your" truck and not pictures of someone elses with unknown variables is a better guess IMO.
My calculations put my truck less than 1/2" level all the way around. Although i do have coils and not leafs the idea is the same.
So with every truck there are always variables when it comes to spring heights, being spring rates, options, engines, vehicle age etc.. Thus having actual measurements of "your" truck and not pictures of someone elses with unknown variables is a better guess IMO.
My calculations put my truck less than 1/2" level all the way around. Although i do have coils and not leafs the idea is the same.




