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IAC cleaning

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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 08:58 PM
  #1  
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IAC cleaning

I know this has been covered a million times, but I never have luck with searches.

Idle jumps up after like 10 min of driving, it's the IAC right?

What's the best way to clean the IAC? I couldn't find carb cleaner at walmart earlier. Anything i can sub in and clean it with?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 10:57 PM
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I would use throttle body cleaner, carb cleaner, or something like berryman chemtool.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 08:57 AM
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Use throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush. Be sure to disconnect the battery while you are cleaning it so the computer will reset.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 06:15 PM
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Good point Jas.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 06:39 AM
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I had the same issue. I tried cleaning and the replacing the IAC. Still had intermittent hight idle. what it turned out to be was the TPS. The old TPS (Ford brand) wasn't even 18 months old but it had developed a symptom of increasing the output voltage from .09 to 1.05 after the engine got hot. I even tired setting the TPS at .085 to compensate but then I got a "TPS out of self test range" code. The high idle was totally annoying and drove me nuts. I finally picked up a Advance Auto TPS and that was that.

To confirm my theory I bench tested the old TPS by using a heat gun with a meat thermometer in the air stream laying next to the TPS and a digital voltmeter. Sure enough as the temperature increased to 200 degrees the resistance in the TPS would go up. When the TPS cooled down the resistance would return to normal.

It only takes a tenth of a volt variation to increase the idle speed. On my 1988 F250 351 the TPS gets rippin hot as it sits on the bottom of the throttle body. Poor design placement - IMO. Would be nice if it had been situated in some cooler location like a refrigerator.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 08:38 AM
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I am impressed with your thorough testing methods, tho.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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I think that's where mine is too. Does anyone have a diagram that shows where it is on a 92 302?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 08:47 AM
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This writeup from another forum might help: Fullsize Bronco IAC Cleaning
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 09:34 AM
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The IAC is a solenoid, not a sensor. Not sure that removal of the battery terminal will accomplish anything.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 03:05 AM
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Thats true it is not a sensor. However, woudln't the computer become used to having it like that and it be better for the computer to relearn with a new one?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 03:28 AM
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To the best of of knowledge the IAC doesn't send any info to the computer. It only receives electrical pulse input from the computer based on the input the computer has received from the various sensors -TPS, ECT, ACT, MAP etc.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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But the engine is going to react differently to inputs to the IAC than it did before the cleaning. Reseting the computer lets it relearn the idle characteristics.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 09:39 AM
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Read this,including how to test:
Ford Fuel Injection Idle Air Bypass (IAB)/(IAC)
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 05:50 PM
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Well, it was the TPS. Just replaced it last night. My truck idles much smoother and even shifts smoother now. I'll see how she does this weekend when I get to do alot of driving.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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Thanks for getting back to us Kentuckyredneck. In HVAC/R we use a lot of solenoid valves. Although very dependable they can fail but many times its because something else is faulty which causes the failure. Anything that restricts the valve from full travel (gunk) or low voltage can shorten its life. Its an actuator that is controlled by the computer but it doesn't give any info back. As pointed out in the links a careful cleaning will help but may not restore a valve that is completely gummed up.
Great info on those links
Thanks to all who posted.
regards
rikard
 
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