Re-decking a Utility Trailer
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From: St Louis
Re-decking a Utility Trailer
I have a 16' utility trailer that needs new decking. The original deck is made from 2"x10" 16 footers that fit into a steel pocket at both the front and rear of the trailer frame. No bolts, no hardware...
Okay, how do I replace the 16' footers without resorting to a plasma cutter followed by a welder?
Looking for ideas that won't break the bank or my back...
Thx, PS89
Okay, how do I replace the 16' footers without resorting to a plasma cutter followed by a welder?
Looking for ideas that won't break the bank or my back...
Thx, PS89
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From: St Louis
I'm not worried about getting the old ones out, Mother Nature and Father Time have seen to that.
I can probably get most of them in by inserting them a bit ****-eyed then "adjusting" them with a BFH. The last ones are the ones I'm thinking about.
Would it work to put something under the middle of the plank as a fulcrum, then stand my 260# butt on one end (put the other into the pocket first...) and bend the plank. Have my son-in-law knock out the fulcrum and see if the butt end goes into the pocket. Hmmm... will that work?
This is my firewood hauler, it isn't ever going to win a beauty prize.
I can probably get most of them in by inserting them a bit ****-eyed then "adjusting" them with a BFH. The last ones are the ones I'm thinking about.
Would it work to put something under the middle of the plank as a fulcrum, then stand my 260# butt on one end (put the other into the pocket first...) and bend the plank. Have my son-in-law knock out the fulcrum and see if the butt end goes into the pocket. Hmmm... will that work?
This is my firewood hauler, it isn't ever going to win a beauty prize.
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From: Frederick, MD
seems like that would work, good ole brute force, don't spare the BFH should work.
Since this is not your sunday go to church trailer..my other though was to treat the wood before placement. Soak it in some good lindsead oil or something.
Since this is not your sunday go to church trailer..my other though was to treat the wood before placement. Soak it in some good lindsead oil or something.
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Would it work to put something under the middle of the plank as a fulcrum, then stand my 260# butt on one end (put the other into the pocket first...) and bend the plank. Have my son-in-law knock out the fulcrum and see if the butt end goes into the pocket. Hmmm... will that work?
Had to replace one of mine earlier this this year in middle of trailer and that's how I got mine back in.
Had to replace one of mine earlier this this year in middle of trailer and that's how I got mine back in.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: midland, Ontario
That would need an awful lot of flex depending on how much over hang there is on the steel lip.
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Cargo Master
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Trailering
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From: Drury, MO
I replaced the floors in two trailers. The 12' I removed the inverted angle lip and welded it back. Only 3 or 4 one inch welds held it in place. The 16' I removed about 11" of the lip at the back of the trailer and that allowed me to slide one end of the board in and drop the opposite end end. The I slid the boards to the side. It required a BFh at times. Also used a large pry bar. Then use self drilling tapping deck screws to hold the last board in place. Took me about 4 hours. But then I'm a old man and prone to resting a lot.
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From: St Louis
Well, about 2 1/2 hours, including the trip to the lumber yard, and $140 later the trailer is back in business.
I cut the 2x10s about 1/2" shorter than needed, inserted the forward edge into the front pocket trimming with a chisel when needed, and used a chunk of 6x6 on the front trailer axle as a fulcrum. Three 60# bags of Quickrete bent the back end of the board right down so it would go into the rear pocket. A quick hit with the Craftsman splitting maul against the 6x6 and the board popped right into position.
I had to rip the last one down by about 1 1/4", installed it, and was done.
Already have a load of firewood on it waiting to be unloaded!
I cut the 2x10s about 1/2" shorter than needed, inserted the forward edge into the front pocket trimming with a chisel when needed, and used a chunk of 6x6 on the front trailer axle as a fulcrum. Three 60# bags of Quickrete bent the back end of the board right down so it would go into the rear pocket. A quick hit with the Craftsman splitting maul against the 6x6 and the board popped right into position.
I had to rip the last one down by about 1 1/4", installed it, and was done.
Already have a load of firewood on it waiting to be unloaded!
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From: Tucson
That's an excellent solution. In my 12 foot utility trailer there wasn't enough flex to do what you did. I ended up cutting the new deck boards anywhere from 4 feet to 6 feet, placing the seams onto one of the steel cross members and screwing down both sides of the seam. That way both ends of each board was fully under the steel at each end of the trailer. The deck is just as solid as when new.
Cargo Master
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From: Stillwater, OK
I had an idea for the last board... if anyone ever has to do this again...
use a thin strap on a hoist as the fulcrum. This would allow you to ease the last board in without cutting. If there is not enough room to remove the strap by sliding it between the boards, you could always just cut it.
use a thin strap on a hoist as the fulcrum. This would allow you to ease the last board in without cutting. If there is not enough room to remove the strap by sliding it between the boards, you could always just cut it.
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From: St Louis
I had to rip the last one due to width, I did not shorten it due to length concerns. Evidently, the original boards were a bit narrower in width than my lumberyard 2 X 10s as these are a very snug side-to-side.
It went in just fine as pictured.
It went in just fine as pictured.
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