1999 E250 Steering Box Replacement
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1999 E250 Steering Box Replacement
Hi guys...
I've had some problems with my PS for a few months now and just recently changed the PS pump to no avail....There's only the Steering box left that could be causing the problem and I've been procrastinating on that for the last couple of weeks.
The readers digest version of the problem is that now, in warmer weather, my steering is "stiff", the wheel won't return to center without help. A few months ago in colder weather I was intermittently feeling the steering assist drop out completely sometimes when turning.
So here's my questions to those of you that have tackled this before:
1) Do I remove the Pitman Arm while the box is still on the vehicle or remove the drag link and pull the box out with arm attached?
It looks like a puller won't fit while in the vehicle due to a frame member that's in the way. I know I can try heat and a pickle fork too but I'm looking for the easiest way to get it out without lying on my back too much (getting too old, lol).
2) Are the fasteners SAE or Metric? Anyone know what size socket/wrench for the Pitman Arm nut?
3) Any advice on disconnecting the steering shaft coupling would be appreciated also.
Thanks
I've had some problems with my PS for a few months now and just recently changed the PS pump to no avail....There's only the Steering box left that could be causing the problem and I've been procrastinating on that for the last couple of weeks.
The readers digest version of the problem is that now, in warmer weather, my steering is "stiff", the wheel won't return to center without help. A few months ago in colder weather I was intermittently feeling the steering assist drop out completely sometimes when turning.
So here's my questions to those of you that have tackled this before:
1) Do I remove the Pitman Arm while the box is still on the vehicle or remove the drag link and pull the box out with arm attached?
It looks like a puller won't fit while in the vehicle due to a frame member that's in the way. I know I can try heat and a pickle fork too but I'm looking for the easiest way to get it out without lying on my back too much (getting too old, lol).
2) Are the fasteners SAE or Metric? Anyone know what size socket/wrench for the Pitman Arm nut?
3) Any advice on disconnecting the steering shaft coupling would be appreciated also.
Thanks
Cross-Country
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Looks like you have to remove box from truck before removing pitman arm.
(The special tool is a pitman arm puller) You should be able to borrow one from AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts
From service manual for a 2006:
Removal and Installation
NOTE: New O-ring seals must be installed any time the lines are disconnected from the steering gear.
I have a 2006 E150. I'll check the size of the nuts tomorrow. The shaft came off pretty easy. Spray it with PB Blaster a day before if you can. I think the shaft is keyed so you can't put it back wrong as long as the wheels are still facing straight ahead.
(The special tool is a pitman arm puller) You should be able to borrow one from AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts
From service manual for a 2006:
Removal and Installation
NOTE: New O-ring seals must be installed any time the lines are disconnected from the steering gear.
- Place the front wheels in the straight-ahead position and the ignition switch in the OFF position.
- CAUTION: Do not allow the steering column shaft to rotate while the intermediate shaft is disconnected or damage to the clockspring can result. If there is evidence that the shaft has rotated, the clockspring must be removed and recentered.
Remove the bolt and detach the intermediate shaft from the gear.
- Disconnect the power steering line fittings from the steering gear.
- With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
- Remove and discard the drag link cotter pin and nut.
- Using the special tool, separate the drag link.
- Remove the 3 power steering gear bolts and the gear.
- Secure the steering gear in a vise and remove the nut and lockwasher.
- NOTE: When connecting a fitting with an O-ring seal, a new seal must be installed. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
I have a 2006 E150. I'll check the size of the nuts tomorrow. The shaft came off pretty easy. Spray it with PB Blaster a day before if you can. I think the shaft is keyed so you can't put it back wrong as long as the wheels are still facing straight ahead.
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I did this job several years ago on an E-150. The job wasn't that hard. I wanted to test for leaks while the tires were still off the ground . I found the tires turned to the right when I turned the steering wheel to the left! I assumed I made a mistake, but found out the unit was rebuilt incorrectly. You might want to verify the new unit turns in the same direction as the old one before putting it into the truck
I have a 2006 E150. I'll check the size of the nuts tomorrow. The shaft came off pretty easy. Spray it with PB Blaster a day before if you can. I think the shaft is keyed so you can't put it back wrong as long as the wheels are still facing straight ahead.
I have a 2006 E150. I'll check the size of the nuts tomorrow. The shaft came off pretty easy. Spray it with PB Blaster a day before if you can. I think the shaft is keyed so you can't put it back wrong as long as the wheels are still facing straight ahead.
I've been soaking this thing in PB for the past 4 days including the mounting bolts. I sorta thought it had to come off before the Pitman Arm cause there's no room for the puller otherwise. I'm going to try to get the nut off the Pitman Arm shaft first though. I think it'll be easier because the gear's bolted to the van and I can really get some leverage on it without fighting a loose component rolling around on the garage floor. Once it's out (the box) I'll heat the Arm up with a torch and try to break it loose.
Thanks for the response.
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Just an update for those in the future that may have to tackle this job. You absolutely better remove the nut for the pitman arm while the gear's still on the vehicle. It would definetly be a beatch if you tried it on the bench and I don't care how big your vise is.
I used MAPP gas to heat the nut up, a crescent wrench (very large one), and a 3lb hammer to beat on the wrench when hot.
I still need to pull the steering gear with the arm attached but pulling the pitman arm shouldn't be too hard when it's out of the vehicle since you're not trying to loosen a nut requiring torqueing rotationally on a loose part (steering gear) slipping and sliding on the garage floor. The fact is I don't think it possible as I had an 18" pipe on the end of the wrench and it did't budge! Only impact will do and you need the steering gear bolted to the frame to do this....
Pulling should be just a matter of heat and maybe some rapping with a hammer on the arm and of course cranking down on the puller bolt....
Stay tuned....
I used MAPP gas to heat the nut up, a crescent wrench (very large one), and a 3lb hammer to beat on the wrench when hot.
I still need to pull the steering gear with the arm attached but pulling the pitman arm shouldn't be too hard when it's out of the vehicle since you're not trying to loosen a nut requiring torqueing rotationally on a loose part (steering gear) slipping and sliding on the garage floor. The fact is I don't think it possible as I had an 18" pipe on the end of the wrench and it did't budge! Only impact will do and you need the steering gear bolted to the frame to do this....
Pulling should be just a matter of heat and maybe some rapping with a hammer on the arm and of course cranking down on the puller bolt....
Stay tuned....
Last edited by injun_ear; Sep 14, 2010 at 08:54 PM. Reason: spellllleng
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Another update- I pulled the box after removing the PS lines and I had to pop off the drag link and leave the Pitman Arm attached to the Steering Gear.
You cannot (at least in mine) get a Pitman Arm puller on the arm while in the vehicle due to interference from a frame member. Lastly, the three bolts that hold the gear to the frame came out relatively easy using a breaker bar.
Putting the new gear in wasn't near as bad as I thought. I used a piece of rope to tie it up and hoisted into the vehicle from the underside. I then was able to get one bolt (bottom) started and then the others went in fairly easy.
Once the old gear was out of the vehicle I tried to get the Arm off with a Puller that I borrowed from Auto Zone. I used Mapp Gas to heat it, over and over and over........
I could not get the arm off the old gear after beating on it, heating it, beating some more and of course using the puller. If I had my Acetylene torch here (it's in florida and I'm in Illinois) I probably would have gotten it off but this time I could not.
I ordered another Pitman Arm (ouch, $50) and should allow me to put it all back together tomorrow.
Right now the vehicle doesn't have the Pitman or the Drag Link connected but that's a 10 minute job in the morning......
You cannot (at least in mine) get a Pitman Arm puller on the arm while in the vehicle due to interference from a frame member. Lastly, the three bolts that hold the gear to the frame came out relatively easy using a breaker bar.
Putting the new gear in wasn't near as bad as I thought. I used a piece of rope to tie it up and hoisted into the vehicle from the underside. I then was able to get one bolt (bottom) started and then the others went in fairly easy.
Once the old gear was out of the vehicle I tried to get the Arm off with a Puller that I borrowed from Auto Zone. I used Mapp Gas to heat it, over and over and over........
I could not get the arm off the old gear after beating on it, heating it, beating some more and of course using the puller. If I had my Acetylene torch here (it's in florida and I'm in Illinois) I probably would have gotten it off but this time I could not.
I ordered another Pitman Arm (ouch, $50) and should allow me to put it all back together tomorrow.
Right now the vehicle doesn't have the Pitman or the Drag Link connected but that's a 10 minute job in the morning......
Last edited by injun_ear; Sep 17, 2010 at 09:34 PM. Reason: ==
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