ford 400
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,107
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From: Spokane, WA
Most bang for your buck with waking up a 400 would be something along the lines of a straight up timing kit, good intake (Edelbrock Performer or Weiand...but I'd stick with the Edelbrock unless you're putting on better heads), 4 barrel carb (I'd think 650cfm would be about right), a good cam (I'd talk to Tim Meyer [TMeyer Inc.] about what grind would be good for a budget build), and a set of headers. That should give the plant a good kick in the butt without completely breaking the bank.
You can then improve upon this later with better heads (like CHI), and a beefier cam if money allows (but you'd have to increase the carb too if you increased airflow).....and then if money allows even further....go to a stroker kit (434), machine 4 bolt mains, complete roller retrofit, new ignition, accessories, etc.
You can then improve upon this later with better heads (like CHI), and a beefier cam if money allows (but you'd have to increase the carb too if you increased airflow).....and then if money allows even further....go to a stroker kit (434), machine 4 bolt mains, complete roller retrofit, new ignition, accessories, etc.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Flat top pistons for 9-9.5 CR are needed too, but the timing set, intake, dual exhaust at a minimum, headers if you like to start as per prior post.
Cam? IMO not until you rebuild.
How many miles on it? If it's high miles, you'll blow it up fast enough with just the 4bbl, then you can rebuild it all proper.
Cam? IMO not until you rebuild.
How many miles on it? If it's high miles, you'll blow it up fast enough with just the 4bbl, then you can rebuild it all proper.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2010
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it has around 74k miles. it has headers i know but i need exhaust. the guy i bought the truck from just ran 3 in flexi tube from the headers straight into some cheap glass packs.... whats a good cheap exauhst system that would sound great and have a little hp increase??
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 186
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From: Tuscaloosa USA
I have a 400 in a 78 thats about to come out for use in a 65 and have similar questions.
It has the factory intake and 2bbl carb. I was thinking of getting a Holley 600 (or 750) with an Edelbrock intake then put on some Hookers that will fit. I figure that should help smoke the tires a bit...what do you think? From what I've read here it sounds like thats the easiest route. Should I swap the timing as well?
If I swap out the intake and carb, what issues may arise by retaining the 2bbl heads? What were you referring to when you said that the engine would blow up with the 4bbl? Did you mean that based on hot rodding or just the added HPs??
It has the factory intake and 2bbl carb. I was thinking of getting a Holley 600 (or 750) with an Edelbrock intake then put on some Hookers that will fit. I figure that should help smoke the tires a bit...what do you think? From what I've read here it sounds like thats the easiest route. Should I swap the timing as well?
If I swap out the intake and carb, what issues may arise by retaining the 2bbl heads? What were you referring to when you said that the engine would blow up with the 4bbl? Did you mean that based on hot rodding or just the added HPs??
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Putting hop up parts on an old, high mile engine can be the end of that motor:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-idea-why.html
Hot Rod mag did the same thing with a Poncho motor a year or two back.
As for grandads 76, imo, I would rebuild any engine you are pulling and putting into a project truck like that.
Stock, the cam timing is retarded. You can fix that with a performance timing set or one for a '71 400. The compression is in the low 8s if at all, and you can't fix that w/o a rebuild.
A 4bbl carb on your heads isn't a problem.
Also regarding the exhaust system, you have headers and if those pipes are big enough, you aren't going to gain anything with a different exhaust system--except if you put on a proper solid pipe, balance tubed, steel can mufflered system that runs out the back or at least behind the tires, you will gain some quiet, and lose the CO seeping up into the cab....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-idea-why.html
Hot Rod mag did the same thing with a Poncho motor a year or two back.
As for grandads 76, imo, I would rebuild any engine you are pulling and putting into a project truck like that.
Stock, the cam timing is retarded. You can fix that with a performance timing set or one for a '71 400. The compression is in the low 8s if at all, and you can't fix that w/o a rebuild.
A 4bbl carb on your heads isn't a problem.
Also regarding the exhaust system, you have headers and if those pipes are big enough, you aren't going to gain anything with a different exhaust system--except if you put on a proper solid pipe, balance tubed, steel can mufflered system that runs out the back or at least behind the tires, you will gain some quiet, and lose the CO seeping up into the cab....
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 186
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From: Tuscaloosa USA
Thanks for the advice. I was told that the engine didnt need a rebuild based on how well it ran, that came from a retired Ford mechanic (my wife's grandad) but he also short cuts things...
It sat up for a year and it runs good once it warms up but when first cranking it, it takes a bit to get it idling without dying and a bit of smoke puffs out (white).
What do you think I should do? How would I check if it would need a bottom end rebuild?
shane
It sat up for a year and it runs good once it warms up but when first cranking it, it takes a bit to get it idling without dying and a bit of smoke puffs out (white).
What do you think I should do? How would I check if it would need a bottom end rebuild?
shane
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Southern NM
Since the engine is in running condition,I would do the basics.Do a compression test,put a test vacuum gauge on it and observe that.The vacuum will give good indications of an engine's health.That should give you a baseline to start from.When you pull the engine for the transplant,it is a simple matter to pull the pan and perform a rod and main bearing inspection.Just some thoughts.
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Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 308
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From: Southern NM
I would say that moderate engine compression numbers would be 140-160 psi.It sounds as if you have studied the test procedure.You want the lowest pressure cylinder to be no lower than 75% of your highest reading cylinder.There is the dry test,and the wet test.Let us know what you found,and what your numbers look like.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 186
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From: Tuscaloosa USA
I found some details online and it seemed really quick and easy but I just read the directions that came with this compression tester and it looks like alot more work than I was expecting so it looks like I'll be working on this on Sunday. The stuff I read earlier today, it sounded like you just replaced a plug with the tester and turned over the engine with the disto unplugged. These instructions involve grounding out the disto, disconnecting all the plugs, etc. Is there more than one way to do it? I dont have a problem going by the instructions but if theres an easier way I'm open to it!
Shane
Shane
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 308
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From: Southern NM
The easy way to do this is to remove all the spark plugs and remove the coil wire from the distributor.I always start at the #1 cylinder and continue to test all the cylinders in that bank,and then move to the #5 cylinder and test all the cylinders in that bank.You need to install the adapter along with the gauge/line in the spark plug hole.Spin the engine over a minimum of four complete revolutions.Observe and record the readings from each cylinder.When you are done then you can compare the cylinder pressures.I also suggest that you check this engine for ignition timing,and that you test it with a vacuum gauge.Here is a link to follow that explains the gauge and the diagnostics you can perform with it.[url]http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm.The reason I pull all the plugs is to give the starter a break.Conduct your test(s)and let us know what you discover.Hope this helps.Also wanted to ask you to look at the condition of the spark plugs as you remove them,as they can tell you about what is going on in the cylinder as well.
Last edited by maskedman; Sep 15, 2010 at 11:50 AM. Reason: added information
