No cool air on the outside will contain more O2.

 

I am referring to the venturi EFFECT here-not to an actual engineered carburetor type venturi. Anyone that has looked at an Autolite 4100 carburetor-knows what venturi s look like! And unfortunately-I am old enough to have seen them!

The venturi EFFECT is the result of anything that constricts air flow and causes that air flow to speed up and resultantly cause lower air pressure.

If a slightly opened throttle plate doesnt cause a venturi effect---then the speed and pressure of the air at the throttle plate would be the same at WOT at low engine speed as it is at idle speed with the throttle plates closed and the IAC opened to some degree! And this isnt true.

And certainly-the area of the two intake tubes compared to the area of the IAC-even when the IAC is full open -should cause some degree of venturi lower air pressure and increase in air speed at a given engine speed and load. Because there is no way that the IAC can flow as much air as the two air intake tubes when the throttle plates are slightly open or closed-- as when the engine is idling .

Basically: the IAC and throttle plates cause the venturi effect of higher air speed and lower air pressure and resultantly-could cause venturi EFFECT related icing-just like the venturi of a carburetor.


Lets not argue we are both saying the same thing basically.

 

So therefore, in regards to intake temps, would it not be correct to tell Lew that the longer intake tube allows for a denser fuel charge to be generated (more O2) and the heated port area allows for better atomization of said fuel charge allowing for more complete (and efficient) burn?

 

Thank you Subford about the info on the heated TB, I stand corrected. Your info is always helpful and well written.
I have never noticed much of a difference either way and only bypassed the system when it was leaking on my 94 and a friends 92. My 95 is still the Ford designed system and it will probably stay that way since I just turned 214k. Seems to work pretty good.
regards
rikard

 

I remember this coming up a while back. Subford is right about what Ford says they are for.

I always thought that those coolant lines served more than one purpose. I also thought that the TB coolant lines were there to help the truck warm up faster in the winter or be less cold blooded like some Fords are known for in the winter.

 

does anyone know what that the coolant line is called i need a new one cant find it

 

which part my rubber hose is just 3/8 fuel line cut to length, or you talking about the metal line that runs across top of radiator?

throttle body coolant line, google is your friend

 

Are you describing the coolant lines to the EGR spacer behind the throttle body? If so, the purpose is to cool the intake charge when the EGR valve is open. If you defeat the cooling lines without defeating the spacer, you may experience a meltdown.

And if you need parts, it helps if you post the vehicle information.

 

Since it's VAPOR that burns...not liquids or solids.

 

I know this thread is a little old but, does anyone know if the running of this coolant line from the radiator neck takes any pressure off the cooling system? My system doesn't utilize the second nipple on the radiator neck, it is plugged off it was like this in the stock configuration. I would be interested in adding this line if it created another path for coolant flow that may relieve pressure off parts of the cooling system. I have had the plug fail and leak on the secondary radiator neck port as well. This last larger radiator I purchased had a plug to install in the box on that secondary part and it lasted about a month, cracked on the end and started shooting antifreeze out one day.

I do have coolant lines on the throttle body, everything is in stock configuration. I am running a 7lb cap, did this on the old motor and have always done it on the new motor. I have never had an over heating issue at any time, 2 radiators in over 30 years and 2 heater cores as well. My hope was maybe running the lines in the new configuration to utilize the second port on the radiator neck might give the system a path for water flow that would reduce pressure as a whole. I purchased my 87 F150 short box 5.0 C6 4x4 brand new and it leaked coolant its entire life. Seeing this line on newer models made me think maybe they put it there to fix an issue with earlier models. At 200K I purchased a new Ford Motorsport mustang cobra short block on clearance, along with the Ford Motorsport speed density to mass air conversion kit that I ended up re-wiring to sequential fuel injection because the kit still utilized the batch fire configuration only providing a set of wires to fire each bank of 4 injectors. So I tore into the $1200 dollar kit and rewired so it had control wiring for each injector, made a new harnes. I did this after driving it for a couple weeks and the only thing it changed was throttle response and a couple miles more per MPG. Throttle response was an enormous change though. With the original batch fire setup as well as the kit installed right out of the box, if you could stab the throttle fast enough to the floor and back it would just kind of stumble the motor, if you could do it fast enough. After the change to the sequential injector wiring no matter how fast you hit the throttle it reved the motor, no more stumble and the throttle response when driving was just much better. Built a very nice motor and installed the mass air kit in 2003 really hoping to never have an antifreeze leak again. I have about 40k miles on that setup now and it has always leaked coolant. I have only every had 3 radiators, stock radiator failed at the tank seam, second radiator same thing and when that one failed a couple years ago I decided to upgrade to the large radiator along with a new fan shroud since I added air conditioning about 20 years ago and always wanted to put the larger radiator in it. Even with the brand new heads, intake, timing cover and careful installation still leaks antifreeze after a few months. I ended up removing the intake, purchased some nice steel core intake gaskets and did a really nice job re-installing and was able to stop the leaking from the intake and timing cover a couple years ago and it is still leaking from somewhere and I can't figure out where now. I have the FMS GT40 turbo swirl alum heads along with the edelbrock truck upper and lower intake. I have to add about a cup or 2 of antifreeze to the overflow tank every month or so, not a bad leak but my next step will be run some dye and try to find it. I know it is leaking because it drips on the floor in my garage, just can not see it anywhere on the motor. I had a 5.0 mustang that was leaking antifreeze when I bought it, put on a new water pump and re-did the timing chain cover gasket as well and never had one leak on that thing the entire time I owned it. Maybe the C6 with no overdrive taking long trips running at 70MPH at 3k rpm's and higher is the issue. The newer trucks and the other 5.0's in vehicles having overdrive doesn't put as much pressure on the cooling system???

 

Have you tried to pressurize the cooling system with the engine off? And either cold or operating temperature? It would be potentially easier to find the source of the leak. If no source of leakage is found--try using an endoscope and make sure it isn't leaking to the cylinders when the coolant sywstem is pressurized using the pressurzation tool mentioned above. Also may consider having a Blackstone test done on the motor oil to see if there is anit-freeze in the oil .

 

From factory, radiator cap was/is 13lb, not the 7lb your using? Pressure in a cooling system is vital for keeping water in contact with the metal surfaces of the cylinder heads and block. Pressure keeps the air compressed and maintains the water-to-metal contact that is vital to prevent localized boiling or steam pockets in the combustion chamber areas of the cylinder heads.