well I certainly don't want to be burning up any engines thanks for the tip next trip out good charged batteries no air filter and no starting fluid

 

Today the truck started, fresh battery and I removed the air filter that was in bad shape. I'm not done yet though the truck starts relatively easy but its not running well. It lacks power under accelaration and I have light gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.
I'm looking for direction for the next step to get this beast back on the road. I would like to be driving this thing soon.

 

I was curious what it should cost to have this truck fully serviced, fluids and filters it has been sitting for a long time

 

With the grey smoke you prolly have one or more clogged injectors and/or a tired injection pump.

Pensacola Fuel Injection | Worlds #1 Diesel Rebuilder - FORD 6.9L - 7.3L :: INJECTORS
Pensacola Fuel Injection | Worlds #1 Diesel Rebuilder - FORD 6.9L - 7.3L :: REBUILT FUEL INJECTION PUMPS
Pensacola Fuel Injection | Worlds #1 Diesel Rebuilder - FORD 6.9L - 7.3L :: INSTALLATION KITS

Try the new injectors and return line kit first. If that doesn't fix it then you will need an IP.

Yeah, don't use that starter fluid in the can (ether). The hot glow plugs will ignite it if you don't get it directly down the intake. I have made this mistake and it is a sickening feeling to see a ball of flame shoot out of your engine bay. It doesn't actually blow up the engine but it will ignite it if not careful. Another thing is that if you use that stuff it causes the engine to knock very violently as you are trying to get it started. What I have started doing is to put a shop towel over the intake and then dribble pure gasoline on the towel while you have someone crank the engine. Just little drops, don't squirt gas down the intake, you are looking to get gas fumes into the intake not liquid gas . The engine will start catching on the fumes and will start. Then pull off the towel. This seems to be a lot easier on the engine than ether is and there is less chance of the blue fireball...

 

Thanks michbol, I'm new to this diesel thing what special tools do i need is there a torque value on the injectors? I want to keep my investment low at this point because I haven't decided whether to keep her or not I have never owned a diesel before

 

A lot of guys say to torque the injectors down to 35 lbs. I ussually just take a 1" crescent and crank the hell out of them to prevent them from leaking or rattling loose. I do think the factory spec is 35 lbs tho. My truck is a non- turbo so injectors, return line and IP all sit on top of the engine and are easy to get to. I think you will need to remove some parts of the Turbo from yours to get to all of them. You can look at the top of the motor and see the IP and the steal lines that go to the injectors and the return line kit. Look around on the forum, I think there are several how-to posts on this job and it is relatively simple and inexpensive for these trucks. Once you start working on these engines and understanding how they/diesels work you will fall in love with them. I love mine and it is my first. (Sounds like we're talking about chicks lol). Anyway you will need a 1" crescent or 1" torque socket to remove/install the injectors and I think it is a 5/8" crescent to get the fuel lines off and that's pretty much it as far as tools. Only take the fuel lines off of the injectors and bend them out of the way. It is not necessary to remove the lines from the IP too. Anyway, there are several tech posts on the full job. Let us know if you run into trouble. Post your results.

 

will do thanks for the help

 

be extremly careful with the ip lines as the can kink easily and they are expensive to replace also dont overtighen the injectors just torque them to 45 ft lbs

 

I was getting ready to order new injectors from Pensacola but noticed there was a choise between New Delphi or Reman with about $45 differance in price do you get more for your money with Delphi?

 

For the differance in price go with the new ones for nthe money, or one step further and get new matched ones from type four or someone that offers them.

 

did you remove the fuel filter and inspect its condition yet?
she may need to be changed,fresh fuel put into the tank,some fuel conditioner added,perhaps some algae killer,and driven for a bit.
all may clear right up for ya.
after i ran it for a tank full or so to see if i liked the diesel(your plans) then id consider a fresh complete diesel tune up.
reman ip and injectors are good,if they fit your budget better.

 

I did do as Festus Hagan suggested earlier in this post. @ Fuel filter head is a Schrader Valve (Tire stem looking thing), Remove the valve core, attach a short hose to it and stick in into a clean soda bottle, crank the engine for 10 seconds, you should get 1/3 pint. I got the proper amount of fuel so I moved on. It runs but not well I figured I would get it running better cause its currently not lisensed and will have to go through emissions then I can drive it long enough to decide weather to keep it but I'm kinda thinking its a keeper already. I realize I'm going to have to puts some real money into it but trying to do as much of the work as I can to offset cost. I don't need a truck this big and heavy duty but thats not really the point is it ha ha ha ha.

 

I finally got some extra time yesterday and put a fresh fuel filter and some diesel kleen in the filter and in the tank. I left to drive it but it was running so badly decided to return no power and smoking badly. I'm worried the turbo may be bad and plan to check that next. anyone know what these things cost?

 

Is it possible to check the turbo without totally taking it off the truck?

 

The first thing would be a visual inspection.

Take the air cleaner lid completely off, which will let you see the turbo intake impeller.

Look for bent fins.
Now try to wobble it around, a very little play is is normal, nothing excessive or not enough to make contact with the turbo housing.
Now give it a spin with your fingers, it should rotate easily.