Breaking one tons
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
Breaking one tons
As some of you guys know, I have broke a axle shaft in my 10.25, and it split the spindle too. So, a new(used) housing is in order. But here's my dilemma. I have also broke two or three 35 spline outers on my D60, and one inner so far, so spend big $ on CVs for the front, and 300M shafts for the rear, OR, swap to Rocks and build up when I break them..... I'm having a hard time making up my mind.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
Unless you plan on going bigger than what you run for tires now, stick with beefing the tons. You're going to have to jack the truck up a bunch to run rocks, and it is going to get wider too(may be an issue if you run tight trails.) Not to mention that anything other than pinion brakes on them besides the stock drums is stupid expensive,
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
I'm a hair shy of 100 inches wide right now, how much wider do u think it would get? Also, I don't know how much taller I would have to go to get the front to clear, I'd have to do some more measuring, but my front axle is infront of the motor now, so oil pan clearance would only be a issue with the drive shaft. I would do pinion brakes, and chop off the bottom of the pumpkin and make new "low pro" pans. But as of now, 44s are the tallest tire I plan on running. I have seen centers for 15 inch wheels, so I'd just use my current tires and wheels. Idk, one min I think its a good idea, next I think not. I want to do a full hydro steer setup sometime here no matter what too, so that wouldn't be a deciding factor.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
Looks like WMS to WMS on a steering rock with the hubs in is 70", 70 is only .75 wider than a Ford 60, but, I think you need to run a pile of offset to make a 15" wheel work on there. Every rig I've ever seen with rockwells has been stupid wide, mind you hubs out makes the WMS 80".
As for height, just a rough guess, I'd figure on needing to make it at least 8" taller unless you do some serious re-fab on the engine crossmember
As for height, just a rough guess, I'd figure on needing to make it at least 8" taller unless you do some serious re-fab on the engine crossmember
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
Hmmm, cross member refab easy as pie, I have to do that anyways....
I wonder how the 15s would clear with no brakes on the hubs. I have 2.5 inches of back spacing on the wheels right now, so, one would think its doable to keep the same overall width. I just don't like the sounds of having to go up 8 inches. I only have 4 inches of lift right now so I'd lile to keep it low.
I wonder how the 15s would clear with no brakes on the hubs. I have 2.5 inches of back spacing on the wheels right now, so, one would think its doable to keep the same overall width. I just don't like the sounds of having to go up 8 inches. I only have 4 inches of lift right now so I'd lile to keep it low.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
The pinion is going to be the killer for height, looks like the high point of the diff is 9.5" above the axle tubes, so, probably closer to 11" above the axle centerline. Compare that to, what, 3" on a D60?
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
O dam, I didn't think they where that high up there... Guess I'll have to go do some tape work and make a decision. I do have 4.5 inch tall bump stops right now to keep the tires out of the radiator support.. So that might help, but a new cross member would be a must, that's if the pinion would clear the front of the motor and the radiator support....
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
That's the reason I didn't even consider them for my truck, I even had a guy wanting to trade me straight up, his reasoning is wanting to lower his truck... I'm taller than I wanted to be as is, but, it's still low for a street legal truck on 44's.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
What type of stub shafts are you running? From reasearch I thought superiors were suppose to be the strongest but then my 4wheel shop started to deal with chromoly Nitro gear and axles. I got the 35 spline stubs and he tells me they're lifetime warranty for a fair price. Can't say I've beat them to the point yet where I'd swear by them but I have wheeled on them at least 4 different times and so far so good. Like you I run 44's with a79 60 front and warn premium lockouts. How often are you breaking? Quite frequently? Every other trip kinda thing? Only other option is maybe consider a limited slip powr lok in the front for good capability but not as aggressive as a Detroit...
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
Every time I get stuck I brake one, you will almost never have to worry about a stub shaft if you are running lockouts. I broke two sets of warn premiums than put in drive flanges. I have 4340 shafts. Every shaft I have broke has been below 2 grand on the tach. So its not like I'm spinning the tires like mad, than they grab traction. If I get different shafts for the front I'm going CV style with 300M shafts.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
With what's available for a 60 now, unless you are planning on running 54's, there isn't really a point in Rocks, guys are breaking stock rockwell stuff with 47's, and Overson stuff ain't cheap. A 60 front with RCV axles is pretty much bomb proof for a 44" tire app, without needing the truck to be stupid tall.
To me, especially since you want to keep it low and don't plan on increasing tire size it's a no brainer, the 60 is already in there, just need to add some beef to it.
When I break something or lock the front, it's going to be RCV's, no questions asked.
To me, especially since you want to keep it low and don't plan on increasing tire size it's a no brainer, the 60 is already in there, just need to add some beef to it.
When I break something or lock the front, it's going to be RCV's, no questions asked.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
You make it sound like you break axles like I did with a Dana 44 welded and 39.5s. I've had good luck so far and havn't seen the carnage people talk about like blown hubs and shafts. But isn't it easier to swap out a hub over a axle? Why not carry a spare . my shop told me you can buy the inner replacements for the warns like the fused links that is the weak point. But I agree longfields are ideal if you got the coin. Do you wreck more when your doubled down on t cases??