'78 Bed Removal
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 547
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'78 Bed Removal
I have a '78 F-250 and it has a leaking gas tank in the rear. I removed the front side tank several years ago due to a line leak that was too difficult to reach. I'm keeping the truck off the road till next summer and I'm thinking about removing the bed to facilitate the rear-tank replacement and also to run all new lines for both tanks, and then re-install the front side tank also.
Does anybody have advice on the bed removal or anything I should do while it's off? I don't really know where to start but I'll get under it and figure it out I suppose.
Thanks for any tips.
Dennis
Does anybody have advice on the bed removal or anything I should do while it's off? I don't really know where to start but I'll get under it and figure it out I suppose.
Thanks for any tips.
Dennis
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 32
From: southwest pa
my sentiments exactly. blast it or wire wheel it, prime and paint it, and replace everything thats hard to access with the bed on. and while your at it, pull the cab and front clib and take care of the front half too.
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 18
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From: wi
took the box off my '76 a couple weeks ago. 4 hour job. we did not use an air impact or it would have been alot sooner-trust me. took the front end off on monday with the impact, what a difference. [8] bolts/nuts is what you got along with dropping the tanks and filler necks ect. one bolt in the left forward part of the bed was like a big phillips head that was connected via a clip on the frame. put on at factory to hold the bed as it went down the line? was a pain though. had to chisel the clip in half. wear safety glasses or goggles like i did. the rust was raining down. mine is nearly done blasting and wire wheeling, will be ready for rust bullet soon. i had a friend help me. he's an animal and could break those nuts loose. spray 'em down with penetrating oil and have at it. good luck to ya.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2009
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Thanks for the advice gentlemen. I cut the heads off of all 8 bolts from the top, the bed is garbage(rust) so I didn't have to worry about preserving it. That front, drivers side clip is a doozy. I was thinking maybe it's a fail-safe method of keeping the bed attached should the other 7 nuts fall off through the years. The bolt has a star head on it on my truck.
Nothing left to do now but get 4 friends over here to pick it up and set it aside so I can get to work on the gas tank removal & replacement. Then I'll get to work looking for a bed in better shape than mine.
I will run all new fuel lines and re-install the front side tank also. Cleaning and painting the frame seems like a good idea also.
Thanks again.
Dennis
Nothing left to do now but get 4 friends over here to pick it up and set it aside so I can get to work on the gas tank removal & replacement. Then I'll get to work looking for a bed in better shape than mine.
I will run all new fuel lines and re-install the front side tank also. Cleaning and painting the frame seems like a good idea also.
Thanks again.
Dennis
Elder User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 927
Likes: 3
From: Lake Point, Utah
That bolt is like that due the the fuel tank being there and not having any access to the frame to remove a nut should the bed need to be removed...so it was put in from the top...unfortunately...when you are dealing with trucks that are over 30 plus years old...bolts have a tendency to NOT want to come out...that is the one I look forward to the least!!!
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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I grinded those bolts off too. When I replaced my bed I went to the hardware store and bought a couple carriage bolts and used two extensions to tighten them down, so I don't ever have that problem again.
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Joined: Sep 2010
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question
I have a 78 that needs a new bed as well. The inner and outer sides are ok, but the floor is toast. How did you go about replacing yours?
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Joined: Jul 2010
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took the box off my '76 a couple weeks ago. 4 hour job. we did not use an air impact or it would have been alot sooner-trust me. took the front end off on monday with the impact, what a difference. [8] bolts/nuts is what you got along with dropping the tanks and filler necks ect. one bolt in the left forward part of the bed was like a big phillips head that was connected via a clip on the frame. put on at factory to hold the bed as it went down the line? was a pain though. had to chisel the clip in half. wear safety glasses or goggles like i did. the rust was raining down. mine is nearly done blasting and wire wheeling, will be ready for rust bullet soon. i had a friend help me. he's an animal and could break those nuts loose. spray 'em down with penetrating oil and have at it. good luck to ya.
Is rust bullet better then por15 ?
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 547
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I didn't replace it yet and was just going to inquire the same thing as you. Is it possible to buy a new bed anywhere or separate parts that can then be assembled (welded up)? My bed floor is toast & the quarters are probably non-repairable for the most part. I don't mind spending the money for something nice for this truck. It's a strong runner (351m) with an engine built by Booth-Arons.
I'm going to take my time and do everything right with it. The cab could use some repair too & I might as well get fenders and door skins.
Does anybody know if beds are available or must they be found used?
P.S. oldblue1978, nice color & year
.Dennis
New User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 19
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took the bed off mine a few years back, painted the frame, replumbed lines, re did elec, and while i was at it i ran frame webbing between the box and the bed. and while i was at it i redid the brakes and put new bushings in the leaf springs. guess what i am trying to say is thats a good time to do everything you can think of while the box is off.
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Joined: Sep 2010
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oldblue1978,
I didn't replace it yet and was just going to inquire the same thing as you. Is it possible to buy a new bed anywhere or separate parts that can then be assembled (welded up)? My bed floor is toast & the quarters are probably non-repairable for the most part. I don't mind spending the money for something nice for this truck. It's a strong runner (351m) with an engine built by Booth-Arons.
I'm going to take my time and do everything right with it. The cab could use some repair too & I might as well get fenders and door skins.
Does anybody know if beds are available or must they be found used?
P.S. oldblue1978, nice color & year.
Dennis
I didn't replace it yet and was just going to inquire the same thing as you. Is it possible to buy a new bed anywhere or separate parts that can then be assembled (welded up)? My bed floor is toast & the quarters are probably non-repairable for the most part. I don't mind spending the money for something nice for this truck. It's a strong runner (351m) with an engine built by Booth-Arons.
I'm going to take my time and do everything right with it. The cab could use some repair too & I might as well get fenders and door skins.
Does anybody know if beds are available or must they be found used?
P.S. oldblue1978, nice color & year
.Dennis
New User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: wi
rust bullet
to be honest i have never used rust bullet. i have used por 15. it has flaked off on a car i did. underneath was not rusty, probably why.
i actually plan on using chassis saver on my truck. silver on the box bottom and black on the frame.
you can find the chassis saver on the same site as monst liner. cool site.
hope this helps.
i actually plan on using chassis saver on my truck. silver on the box bottom and black on the frame.
you can find the chassis saver on the same site as monst liner. cool site.
hope this helps.
