It is a 1995, so what is the difference in HPOP??
When you do an electric fuel pump conversion, do you do away with the stock pump?

 

The drainback feature is different on the 94.5-95 pumps than the 96+ pumps, so if you want to run a 17° pump on your truck you either need to swap the front cover (the hard way to do it) or having the 17° internals installed into your 15° housing.
When you convert to electric fuel yes get rid of the stock pump. You'll need to put a freeze plug in the hole where the stock pump goes.

 

What kind of money are we talking for an efp conversion?? How difficult a project?

 

electric fuel runs anywhere from $500-1200 depending on what you get. The CPR system from dieselsite is cheaper (I think) but comes with everything you need. The system from Beans Diesel is more expensive but also comes with everything.

You can also make your own, as several members on here have done.

For the HPOP definately get yourself a 17* pump and then send in your 15* pump with it to Joey and have him mod it for you. That's what I'm going to do when I get to that point.

 

Too steap for me at this time? Where do you put a gauge to check fuel pressure? What is normal for a stocker??

 

There is a shcrader valve to the left of the fuel filter at the FPR. I believe it should be about 40-60psi (someone will be able to give the ezact psi)

 

Once I get my truck back together, I will check the pressure and decide if I need to replace the fuel pump.
Anybody have a radiator core support they would be willing to part with to fit my truck?
1995 PSD with AC.
I probably shouldn't say this but if you have a spare you should hang on to it just in case. Everybody else, check your rad core support where it mounts to the frame and keep it in good condition. I have been looking for 2 weeks, friend at salvage yard has put it on the hotline twice, no luck. The support is unique to the diesel with a/c and apparently is extremely hard to find. I tore mine off thinking it would be easy to find, now my poor truck sits in the drive day after day just waiting on me to put her back together.

 

yeah the bushings for the core support wear out like the cab mount bushings do, but the core support will crack unlike the cab. You can't weld it back up or did it bend it and rust it out and stuff?

 

It is rusted out in an area about 6-8" around the mount area. If I can't find one, I am going to try and get one off a wrecked truck and cut out what I need, if that doesn't happen then I will make the sections I need and weld them in.

Is there a special psi gauge I can buy to check the fuel pressure? What kind of threads does the schrader valve have?

strokin'_tastch, not being nosy, but would you mind telling me approximatey how much $$ it took to make 380hp? That is the range I would like to take my truck to, 350-400.

 

My 86 diesel radiator support is eaten out in the same locations as yours.

Non existant from any source, been that way for several years.

With the support out, you can rebuild the parts that rust devoured, it just takes some time to get everything lined up right.

 

Here is the Radiator support:LMC Truck Parts - Page 23

 

I saw that but it says it wont fit models with super cooling option. what is the super cool option? My buddy at the salvage yard says the diesel w/o ac uses the same as a gasser. so I am wondering if it will actually fit mine with ac. got a buddy at a parts store who has ordered me one, should be in tomorrow, guess i will find out then if it is the right one.

 

All the diesel ones are taller (they go down between the frame further) and the bottom is wider to fit the big radiator.