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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

inside the CPS hole?

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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 05:31 PM
  #16  
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Good pics! I did a search on google for Power Stroke injection pressure regulator. It turned up all kinds of information and diagrams. The best one showed a step by step photo and text "how to". It was easy but watch out when taking the regulator apart. There are several really small parts inside. Go to Ford and get a O-ring kit for the regulator. Good luck. PK
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 06:18 PM
  #17  
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thanks for posting that pic up for me Rick...
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Kelly MT
I had a similar problem with my 97. No codes, no start. Turned out to be the injection pressure regulator. The plug had bare wires and the regulator had some gunk in it. It was starting hard, idling rough and burning more fuel. Runs like new now.
So did you just put in new o rings or a new IPR or what to fix it? I don't have a scanner and my truck is still down going on 2.5 weeks now.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 07:25 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by redman84
So did you just put in new o rings or a new IPR or what to fix it? I don't have a scanner and my truck is still down going on 2.5 weeks now.
If you are up for it , you can test the HPOP system with a gauge ,& or a meter ...
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
thanks for posting that pic up for me Rick...
You're welcome....
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 07:51 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Action4478
If you are up for it , you can test the HPOP system with a gauge ,& or a meter ...
Honestly I'll try whatever I have to try to get it running. I've got another good PSD at home just waiting for me to figure out what part to pull. My holdup is $$$. I'm a young family guy with a lower middle class job. I've got it at a shop right now who always treats me right. He knows to DIAGNOSE ONLY and although I don't use a shop much he still gives me very fair prices and even lets me work on my truck while it's there. But this time they've had it for two weeks with not much to offer on insight of the problem.
I'm wondering if buying a scanner and diagnosing myself would end up being more cost effective anyway. Between a computer and you guys I'm sure I could do it.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #22  
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If you have a spare , swap IPRs to start out ...
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:18 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Action4478
If you have a spare , swap IPRs to start out ...
Yeah, it's looking like I'm going to try that after a lot of stuff I've read on here and elsewhere. How can I get it out without making the "IPR removal tool"?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:20 PM
  #24  
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Go to Napa and buy a socket from them. Their socket is deep enough you can get the ratchet in there with no need to weld a bar on it.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:22 PM
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If you have a craftsman socket it fits too..
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by redman84
Yeah, it's looking like I'm going to try that after a lot of stuff I've read on here and elsewhere. How can I get it out without making the "IPR removal tool"?
Take the fuel bowl out ....


Or ,..... I used a pair of vice grips on the socket
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:26 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by F350-6
Go to Napa and buy a socket from them. Their socket is deep enough you can get the ratchet in there with no need to weld a bar on it.
SWEET! That will make it so much easier.
[quote=427 fordman]If you have a craftsman socket it fits too..]
I've got Craftsman(wouldn't have any other) but I don't think I've got one that big. Maybe though...
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:44 PM
  #28  
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I found it easier to remove the fuel filter housing. Also might as well replace the blue hoses to the pump at this point. The nut that holds the solenoid on is a light stamped thing and is 3/4" A good deep socket will then fit the IPR. Be ready for oil to flow out into the valley. Disassembly is easy but be careful not to mar the surfaces and watch the orientation of the small pieces inside. I cleaned the insides with a spray of WD-40. When putting the solenoid nut back on don't over tighten it, it will distort it. The O-ring kit comes with a new solenoid nut. Check the plug wires for damage. On mine all the rubber insulation was gone and the wires were touching. I used RTV to repair that problem. PK
 
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