Still running warm
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From: Okie
Still running warm
After new sending unit, new thermostat and new cap, my guage is still showing almost hot all of the time. Once the thermostat opens, the guage rises just as it should, but continues all the way to the H line. It rides right there until I kill it. When I shut it off and raise the hood, the engine doesn't feel too hot, it feels normal. When I start it again, after just a few minutes, it's buried Hot, but gets back to the H line after a few miles.
The gauge used to not climb that high, in fact I thought the guage was broken when it wouldn't even get to a normal op temp. One day it turned loose and started doing what it's doing.
I'm moving water, have burped the lines and can't figure out why it reads so hot all the time.
Does anyone have experience with gauges going wonky or have any ideas for a solution.
The gauge used to not climb that high, in fact I thought the guage was broken when it wouldn't even get to a normal op temp. One day it turned loose and started doing what it's doing.
I'm moving water, have burped the lines and can't figure out why it reads so hot all the time.
Does anyone have experience with gauges going wonky or have any ideas for a solution.
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You'll need to install an aftermarket temp gauge to verify your temps, or at the very least use an IR temp gun to see what temps the engine is running at.
With some factory gauges you can have the needle buried on the H, but only be at 165 degrees.
Josh
With some factory gauges you can have the needle buried on the H, but only be at 165 degrees.
Josh
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From: Okie
Thank you sir. I'd like to keep it looking as original as possible, wanted the gauge solution to be last resort. Probably end up putting them in the glovebox just for reference. Thanks!
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It wouldn't be a big deal to install a gauge for reference then remove it, or as you said hide it somewhere.
I used to run an oil pressure gauge tee'd off the filter adaptor and just mounted it on the driver's side fender apron. Basically once you know the actual temps you can reference the factory gauges somewhat.
A lot of guys knock the OEM gauges as being unreliable, but they work for what they are asked to do, it's just a matter of knowing what it is they are trying to tell you. They each have their own character. The only real problem I see is the oil pressure is slow to respond, so you could lose oil pressure, but the gauge will slowly show the loss.
Josh
I used to run an oil pressure gauge tee'd off the filter adaptor and just mounted it on the driver's side fender apron. Basically once you know the actual temps you can reference the factory gauges somewhat.
A lot of guys knock the OEM gauges as being unreliable, but they work for what they are asked to do, it's just a matter of knowing what it is they are trying to tell you. They each have their own character. The only real problem I see is the oil pressure is slow to respond, so you could lose oil pressure, but the gauge will slowly show the loss.
Josh
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From: arizona
since you have done all that so far might wanna flush the radiator and check the sendin unit could b it has shorted out usually when they do they will read hot or not work at all or like u said just come to life if none of the above sounds like a head has gone bad
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From: Okie
since you have done all that so far might wanna flush the radiator and check the sendin unit could b it has shorted out usually when they do they will read hot or not work at all or like u said just come to life if none of the above sounds like a head has gone bad
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Don't sweat it, bad information.
If a sending unit or wire was shorting out the gauge would instantly go full HOT, not gradually.
And no need to jump to any conclusions until the factory gauge can be sorted out with a secondary means to check the temps.
Josh
If a sending unit or wire was shorting out the gauge would instantly go full HOT, not gradually.
And no need to jump to any conclusions until the factory gauge can be sorted out with a secondary means to check the temps.
Josh
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