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So yesterday while out and about started smelling antifreeze. Pulled into the shop and found it was leaking around the upper radiator hose right at the radiator. Loosened the clamp to inspect the hose and the neck had broken off causing the leak. Is there any way to make or replace just the neck or do I have to replace the entire radiator? Also how hard is it to replace the radiator. Thanks
So yesterday while out and about started smelling antifreeze. Pulled into the shop and found it was leaking around the upper radiator hose right at the radiator. Loosened the clamp to inspect the hose and the neck had broken off causing the leak. Is there any way to make or replace just the neck or do I have to replace the entire radiator? Also how hard is it to replace the radiator. Thanks
If the plastic end caps have weakened enough for the flange to break off, just get a new one.
What assurances do you have that the rest of the casing is any good?
Also, I have learned in my 28 years as a repair tech that the plastic end radiators last a LOT longer than the full metal.
Two and a half bills seems like a lot of money to most of us, however.....
You'll be thinking it's chump change if you're on the side of the road out in the middle of West Texas somewhere with steam coming from under the hood and a temp gauge that's pegged.
These engines have huge cooling systems, and are very forgiving, but neglect will bite you when you least expect it.
Think of the new radiator as cheap insurance. It is.
They are easy to change. Just don't forget the tranny cooler lines have to also be removed to do the job.
This might also be a good time to change coolant types.
ALSO, since you have an old radiator that's now useless, would you be willing to tear off the tanks and inspect for core clogging? There have been several cases reported lately.
Yea fortunatly enough there is an OEM on in stock in Woodward for 235 and they are open today!!!! You are right as that is a ton of money to me right now and am trying to come up with the funds (lucky for me I have lots of excess guns) to go get it so I can be back in service tomorrow morning.
Well the coolant is green. Got it all back and installed what a breeze they actually made something easy LOL. I do have a good camera what exactly are you wanting me to do to get it right the first time and I will do it on my lunch break tomorrow. On my old radiator it didnt have any place to screw anything into. Just two place on the bottom passenger side for a large hose and a smaller one then the one up top for the main hose and the one from the reservoir. The new radiator had two places to screw in hoses I plugged those and drove about 100mi tonight with no leaks or problems. Anyway thanks for all the help guys.
Those two additional holes are the goes-in and goes-out ports for the coolant-to-oil transmission cooler. If you have an auto-trans, I HIGHLY suggest you hook it up.
The proper routing is from the transmission to one of the lower-tank ports, out of the other to the air-to-oil cooler, then out of that back to the trans.
Our member Mark Kovalski, who was a Ford factory trans engineer until a couple of years ago, says these are the basis to keeping the trans cool. 99's didn't have them, and they added them in 2000. There must have been a reason, as Ford likes to CUT costs, not add them.
Of course, if yours is a manual, just keep them plugged.
If you decide to do this job, let us know and we'll get you some installation photos for a 2000.
Pop, for the record, my 1999.5 ZF6 has the trans cooler built into the radiator and there are two cooler lines running from just behind the bell housing to those ports.