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My 93 f150 with 302 recently started throwing a code 332 and giving a CEL after driving. The light does not come on while idleing. I have removed the EGR and cleaned it and it appears to function properly. I do however hear what sounds like an exhaust leak beneath the upper intake. Does this sound like it could be the EGR Tube causing both problems? Does thsi tube connect to the lower intake or does it route out the back of the engine compartment?
I think the leak you are looking for is the crossover that bolts to the back of the engine ..its the smog cross over that bolts to the cylender heads ..take a look at that
Thanks for the reply. I guess I should have been a little more specific as to what I had done so far in tracing. I have probed the entire engine compartment front to back, side to side with a medical stethoscope and have narrowed the sound to directly beneath the upper intake and along the same line that I loose sight of the egr tube. I have not removed the upper intake as of yet,. I have felt the length of the tube that I can reach and can not feel any obvious cracks. It does still have the cloth wrap on it so can not be completely certain. I have not gotten up the nerve to stick my hand under the upper intake with the engine running, yet though. If I disconnect the tube from the bottom of the egr valve it seems more flexible that I would expect it to be. I think that it has a flexible area that may be allowing the movement. I have no problems with removing the upper intake if need be, yet did not want to if it was not absolutely neccessary. Is there anything else under that location that would sound like an exhaust leak, get louder with acceleration and once the engine warms get less noticeable?
Hey, the egr tube although some what flexible is not reallt that flexible at all. If as you say it feels like it is too flexible it has probably rusted out or somehow else broke. Should be a cheap fix.
The EGR tube is the only thing there that would leak. It's screwed into the lower intake, which gets exhaust from one of the heads. Soak it with Liquid Wrench for 2-4 days before you want to pull it apart and have replacement intake gaskets on hand before you start. I think one of the upper intake (plenum) bolts is a Torx-drive, so look before you start.
I was getting a code 332 that turned out to be a vacuum leak. On my 300, the coffee can was in the EGR circuit and it rusted through. I chased the problem for a while before I checked the vacuum at the solenoid, there was only about 5" hg.
Check the vacuum going into the EGR control solenoid valve, make sure it is between 15-20" hg.
I just bypassed the can and no more codes.
Thanks for all the replies. I am hoping to get the opportunity this week to remove the upper intake to find that the $70 egr tube needs replacing. If I decided to drive it would it cause any internal damage to the engine with this leak?
No damage it is just an emissions item, and an anooyance with the noise. I have seen when they leak too close to wires or other meltables it can melt them.
Originally posted by mikej have probed the entire engine compartment front to back, side to side with a medical stethoscope and have narrowed the sound to directly beneath the upper intake and along the same line that I loose sight of the egr tube.
I have eyeballed everything as well. I am as positive as I can be without physically removing the upper intake and taking the egr tube off that that is the culprit. Would a leaking manifold throw a code 332? Or are you thinking that they could be seperate issues?
I would say you have two problems, an exhaust leak in the egr tube and also a problem with the EGR, a leaking tube would only give a code if the EGR has positive feedback - where it sees if there is pressure at the exhaust side of the valve. Check a haynes to see the difference but I didn't think that year has it.
The EGR position sensor can be checked with an OHM meter, Haynes manual explains how to check and what pins to check.
It should have a consistant ohm reading from about 3500 at no vacuum to 400 at full vacuum if I remember my numbers right.
A code 332 is when there is a difference in what the computer wants for EGR position and what it really is.
Again, also check the vacuum where the line from the manifold hooks onto the EGR solenoid. if there is no vacuum the EGR doesn't move, that's what was wrong with mine, I didn't find out till hours of replacing sensor and screwing with the EGR solenoid.