I was having starting issues. So I took my starter to a guy who I took my modern starters to for rebuilding. He completely tore it apart and cleaned it out and nothing was wrong so we moved to the generator and sure enough because it had been sitting for ten years the brushes were rusted into place. This guy was awesome. He did the starter, generator and soldered my radiator and only wanted 50 bucks, So I of course gave him more because I know it was all worth way more than that to me. But still yet slow cranking. But here we go. He is very knowledgeable and suggested to me to ever so slightly tap the distributor a little more on the advance. And so I did and wow what a difference. Cranks awesome. But, now I here this little low rattle in the motor that was not there before. I tired to move it back and no luck it is now there and I can not seam to get rid of it. Most everyone can not seam to hear it but I most certainly can, and I am very aggravated with it. It is ever so slight that I can not seam to pin point where it is coming from, and it is not consistent. It almost sounds like something loose, but what the heck would come loose just from a little nudge. Any ideas out there, because I am just to angry and probably to close to really maintain my sense about it all.

 

I don't know what engine you have, but is it possible a valve was stuck, and when it finally let go, it bent/broke a little?

 

It is a flat head 8. I was told it might have come out of a 53 merc. It was completely rebuilt ten years ago but had zero miles on it till I got it and now it has about 3 miles on it. It sounded perfect till I did that. Ran smother and quieter than both my 92 and 96 trucks.

 

These flat motors don't crank fast like modern engines, In fact you'd think they are hardly turning fast enough to start. Remember they used to start by hand cranking!

Loosen the clamp bolt on the dizzy and set the timing to what it should be, ball on the pulley aligned with the pointer with vac disconnected and plugged. Timing that's way off can put pressure on the pistons at the wrong time, not good for rod bearings.

What's your oil pressure?

PS it helps us all if you put your location in your profile, and your make/model/year somewhere in your signature

 

As long as it has oil pressure, fulids are not mixing (Oil/water), and the engine is building temp you ned to drive it - A flatmotor needs time to break in - That raises the question - Was it given a "Break in run" after it was rebuilt?

 

Sorry I am new to this and have not sully figured everything out. Not sure how to do the signature part yet. And as far as I know the motor was only ran for about fifteen minutes after rebuild ten years ago, that is why I have been starting it several times a day and driving around the block a couple of times a week. I am trying to take it slow with it because it has been sitting for so long. And I have not gotten the oil pressure gauge to work yet. But I do have a generic one I will try on it later today.

 

My 8BA was the same way. A rebuilt engine with zero miles on it from 15 years ago. It sat in the truck outside all that time in MN, where the Summer humidity, and the snowy Winters, created rust inside the engine. The mice also blocked the water passages with corn kernels and such. So even though an engine is rebuilt, and untouched, over time things still happen that we may not know of. If I hadn't took the heads off of mine, I would've never known it was plugged up.

 

It might be knock from spark advance, but I'm more concerned with the comment that the oil pressure gauge doesn't work.

Do you have oil pressure and how did you determine that if the gauge doesn't work?

If this info was posted earlier I apologize.

 

I am from lakewood, WA. I have a 52 F-3 with the flat head 8, and I know nothing about them. This will be my first build and I am as excited as can be but worried about my lack of knowledge on this motor.

 

Do you have oil pressure and how did you determine that if the gauge doesn't work?


Because the gauge does not move at all.

 

Junky,if you hang around here long enough,you'll absorb all the info you need,by osmosis.I have now learned enough about my era of truck to be dangerous.I'm realizing that what I really want is a 48-52 with a flattie.But ,I'm withholding that from my wife till sometime in the future,when it's sitting in my driveway.

 

Slap a mechanical pressure gauge on it at the pressure switch location near the oil filter. Right away!!!

Rebuilt engines need a break-in as Dick suggests and short drives, idling, etc are BAD for new rings. Read this, set your timing, then follow the procedure:

Break-in Procedure

 

It appears to be running between 80 and 90 PSI at idle. I will have to play with more after I get back from work. But looks to be high.

 

That's REALLY high, sure the gauge is accurate?! Much better than low. I assume that's with a cold engine? I'd move on to timing.

 

Has the oil been changed since you got it - if not do so for a fresh start.