Installing power brake booster
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Installing power brake booster
Good morning. My son and I are working on a 1966 Ford F100. We are replacing parts to make it road worthy until we can do a total restoration. We have ordered and received a power brake booster. Can anyone tell me how or where to find any information on how to install the power booster so that it operates correctly. Thanks in advance for your help. I am a newbee to restoring older vehicles.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Since the 66 didn't come with power brakes, what are you doing, just adding a booster to the existing?
I've got power brakes on my 66 but I swapped everything from a 76 to have power disc brakes.
John
I've got power brakes on my 66 but I swapped everything from a 76 to have power disc brakes.
John
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Where are you getting the booster from? I have this same question and just read through 13 pages of old posts still no answer. Is it possible to bolt on a booster to have power drums all around? If so, where do we get the booster from?
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bagpype, I live in Va. and I got my power booster from Auto Krafters, but I also think LMC sells the power boosters. Mine is for a drum/drum set up. I think what I have to do is get a vacuum line from the engine and run another brake line, as the original only has one line leaving the master cylinder. I also have to find out where to put the switch that is on the old master cylinder. I think that is all that I have to do, not really sure.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The booster Ford used (C5TZ2005C) was a Bendix, their number: 2504335 / 6.75" O/D
With P/B, Ford used a different master cylinder (C5TZ2140A) than w/o P/B (C3TZ2140H). The bore (1.00") was the same for both, so...what the difference was, I dunno
The dealer installed kit was C6TZ2A091C, original 1966 price listed in the accessory catalog: $47.00.
ALL 1948/1966 Passenger Cars / Trucks (w/o air brakes) / Bronco's and Econolines:
Ford used the same pressure activated brake light switch (C1AZ13480A) which either threaded directly into the master, or to a brass fitting that threaded into the master.
When Ford went to dual master cylinders in 1967, the switch (no longer pressure) was mounted on the brake pedal.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
John, Power Drum Brakes were an option, either factory or dealer installed on 1966 F100/250 2WD's.
The booster Ford used (C5TZ2005C) was a Bendix, their number: 2504335 / 6.75" O/D
With P/B, Ford used a different master cylinder (C5TZ2140A) than w/o P/B (C3TZ2140H). The bore (1.00") was the same for both, so...what the difference was, I dunno
The dealer installed kit was C6TZ2A091C, original 1966 price listed in the accessory catalog: $47.00.
ALL 1948/1966 Passenger Cars / Trucks (w/o air brakes) / Bronco's and Econolines:
Ford used the same pressure activated brake light switch (C1AZ13480A) which either threaded directly into the master, or to a brass fitting that threaded into the master.
When Ford went to dual master cylinders in 1967, the switch (no longer pressure) was mounted on the brake pedal.
The booster Ford used (C5TZ2005C) was a Bendix, their number: 2504335 / 6.75" O/D
With P/B, Ford used a different master cylinder (C5TZ2140A) than w/o P/B (C3TZ2140H). The bore (1.00") was the same for both, so...what the difference was, I dunno
The dealer installed kit was C6TZ2A091C, original 1966 price listed in the accessory catalog: $47.00.
ALL 1948/1966 Passenger Cars / Trucks (w/o air brakes) / Bronco's and Econolines:
Ford used the same pressure activated brake light switch (C1AZ13480A) which either threaded directly into the master, or to a brass fitting that threaded into the master.
When Ford went to dual master cylinders in 1967, the switch (no longer pressure) was mounted on the brake pedal.
So there were 37 66F100s with the installation, read what the OP sez, DOES NOT APPLY HERE.
John
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Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
66 F100s with the installation, read what the OP sez, DOES NOT APPLY HERE.In an effort to help the OP, I listed the booster diameter and its Bendix part number, which autoparts stores go by.
Dunno where you got the 37 figure from, there were 10's of 1000's of these trucks with P/B's.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
What doesn't apply here? You said P/B were not available, but in fact they were available...either factory or dealer installed.
In an effort to help the OP, I listed the booster diameter and its Bendix part number, which autoparts stores go by.
Dunno where you got the 37 figure from, there were 10's of 1000's of these trucks with P/B's.
In an effort to help the OP, I listed the booster diameter and its Bendix part number, which autoparts stores go by.
Dunno where you got the 37 figure from, there were 10's of 1000's of these trucks with P/B's.
John
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From: Dallas, Texas
webselec,
It should not be too difficult to convert to power assist brakes from manual.
You will need a pair of firewall brackets and vac booster. I was able to change out everything in an afternoon. If you are fine with the single M/C setup, you should be able to make the conversion without even disconnecting any brake lines or having to bleed the brakes.
You will need a source of manifold vacuum to connect to the booster, and you will need two male/female pin type electrical extensions to connect to the original M/C brake pressure switch, that should be it.
Be sure to check to make sure booster push rod adjustment is correctly set - look at the Bendix diagram below and you should be set.
It should not be too difficult to convert to power assist brakes from manual.
You will need a pair of firewall brackets and vac booster. I was able to change out everything in an afternoon. If you are fine with the single M/C setup, you should be able to make the conversion without even disconnecting any brake lines or having to bleed the brakes.
You will need a source of manifold vacuum to connect to the booster, and you will need two male/female pin type electrical extensions to connect to the original M/C brake pressure switch, that should be it.
Be sure to check to make sure booster push rod adjustment is correctly set - look at the Bendix diagram below and you should be set.
