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I hear ya, but if I only take off one wheel at a time, or just fronts at one time - should be fine. The amazon timken is a better price than anywhere else, and I think I would trust it more than the no-name ebay ones that are $80
Either pitch stud should thread into the hub. But assuming you still have the correct lug nuts still laying around, I'd still spring for the correct studs... even if I had to buy 'em from Ford. You may forget to tell your local tire guy about it if you take it in to get new rubber some day. And I'm sure they aren't going to want to pay for stripped nuts/studs on a non-stock setup if they get the nuts mixed up.
But, all this should be moot. Because the Timken units should come with studs. They've got one part number for fine thread and one part number for course thread. Just order the one you need and forget about it. Problem solved.
For a 4wd, SRW, 4-wheel ABS truck, this should be the parts you're looking for:
Of course, you can order them from an Amazon reseller and get them cheaper than the ones shown in the links (look at the right sidebar). I just punched the Timken part numbers into the Amazon search.
I saw those listed but when you do the vehicle check it said they won't work on an 02 Ex - so I was confused.
I'm going to pull it all apart this week and try just swapping out the bearings if things are not blown up in there and see how that goes. If I do have damage I'll order the new hub - thanks
Yeah - read the steps for swapping those out - C6TZ-3123-A and it seemed straight forward enough. tap on the old, press in the new. I'm hoping that is the one that is making the noise currently and not the big one that can't be changed.
yep, that seems to be unique to amazon, most other sites say either will work or to go with the course thread.
I went through the same thought process (replace the needle bearing), but after tearing it down it seems to only act as a race for the front drive shaft, I would think unless you were locked in 4 wheel drive that the running gear is not turning, at least it doesn't have a load on it if it is turning, and therefore would not give any indication there was any thing wrong.
The larger bearing that bears the weight of the vehicle is press fit into the assembly, one side bolts to the vehicle, the other bolts to the wheel unfortunately it is not serviceable.
My truck started groaning and pulling to the left when I would hit the brakes, I had just replaced the brakes so they were not the culprit, also, a key indicator is the ABS light will come on, seems when the bearing starts to go it throws metal off that clogs the magnetic sensor (also part of the sealed assembly) and sends an error code on that wheels ABS sensor.
Just a thought, pain in the rear to tear it all down only to put it back together and not have it fixed.
Actually, the needle bearing spins on the axle (with the hub) when the hubs are unlocked. When locked in, the axle turns with the hub, so the needle bearing doesn't spin.
Yah, kind of what I was getting at, you said it better, in any event it doesn't carry the brunt of the load, seems to keep the shaft in line while working is all.
had a week of down time on the truck last week so I was able to replace the hubs, the brakes and the rotors. something was going out in the driver side hub for sure even though it looked OK from what you can see on the outside. everything rolls smooth again so I'm happy. Only little panic moment was after everything was done the ABS light stayed on the first 5 minutes of driving. happily it went out and I didn't have to tear anything back apart.
the 3 jaw puller does make it easier to get the hub off!
if you guys are buying timkin cause there made in the us you should really look at the boxes closer. half of the timkin line if not more is being outsourced
Likewise, my F250 Hubs were clearly marked "made in USA" as for outsourcing, Timken is an international company with divisions in something like 19 countries including India, Korea and China.
That being said, I replaced the bearings on my wifes car with Timkens and they were marked made in Korea. No reason to believe they were not mfg. in their factory, to their standards.
do what I did to make sure I had the right thread, take a lug nut off your truck and ask at Autozone to see one of the units,
lj
Is there any other way to tell? I ordered them from amazon already and didn't realize that there were two different threads. I have already looked at the ones and autozone and had them ut them back on the shelf. I would hate to go have them pull them out again, but I guess that I would hate to have the wrong ones delivered more.
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