4.10 gearing
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4.10 gearing
01 F-350, 4x4, Bullydog programmer (set at 100hp).
Hey guys, I need some advice. My truck currently has 3.73 gears, I am running 33" tires and plan on putting on 35" when these wear out. I am looking at replacing the gears with 4.10 to help with the performance, and I can get them (installed) for a decent price at a reputable shop (roughly around 1500 bucks for both axles, if I don't need bearings). One thing that has always killed me is that "dead zone" between 45 mph and 55 mph when the truck is in overdrive. I am hoping that this will get my rpm's up enough to give me some power. I don't tow anything anymore (wife made me sell my sandrail, should have sold her instead
). Any thoughts on doing this.
Thanks for the input,
Ron W.
Hey guys, I need some advice. My truck currently has 3.73 gears, I am running 33" tires and plan on putting on 35" when these wear out. I am looking at replacing the gears with 4.10 to help with the performance, and I can get them (installed) for a decent price at a reputable shop (roughly around 1500 bucks for both axles, if I don't need bearings). One thing that has always killed me is that "dead zone" between 45 mph and 55 mph when the truck is in overdrive. I am hoping that this will get my rpm's up enough to give me some power. I don't tow anything anymore (wife made me sell my sandrail, should have sold her instead
). Any thoughts on doing this.Thanks for the input,
Ron W.
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From: Albemarle, NC
I'd go with 4.30 instead. too close of a ratio difference to make it worthwhile IMHO. The local 4WD shop told me to stay with 3.73 until going bigger than 35" (what I have now) and at that point to swap in the 4.30's. I'd like to do this, but can't justify the cost until I go bigger. just my 0.02.
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I didn't know 4.30 were available. I don't plan on going bigger than 35" tires, so I don't know if 4.30 would put my rpm's too high at highway speeds, but on the other hand I don't want to blow my money on 4.10 if it isn't going to make much of a difference.
Ron
Ron
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From: Rochdale MA
Maybe this will help you out with your decision.
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...G5YpxQcA#gid=0
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...G5YpxQcA#gid=0
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From: San Antonio
4.30 gears
Here is a post I was just reading this morning. It is for a 2wd Excursion lift, but had some good points on regearing.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...lly-caved.html
The owner orginally got 4.30's with his 35"s, then switched to the 4.10's as he felt the gearing was not correct.
Hopefully it helps in your decision.
Sorry new to posting, skip to page 4!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...lly-caved.html
The owner orginally got 4.30's with his 35"s, then switched to the 4.10's as he felt the gearing was not correct.
Hopefully it helps in your decision.
Sorry new to posting, skip to page 4!!
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That shop is right, you don't need a gear change with 35's because if you go measure a 35 on the truck it is only 33.5 inch's tall, a 33 is 31.5 tall get a tape measure and go see if you don't believe it. Or mark tire at bottom, mark pavement, roll for one revolution, measure distant between the two mark's and divide by 3.1416 that give's true tire height.
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Probably not worth it unless you go larger than 35". I am running 4.30's with my 37's, actual height 36.6" and I really like them. On the freeway at 70 mph I run 2050 rpms and at 75 mph more like 2350 rpms. IMO, I would always change out all the bearings when you do a gear swap, since nothing worse than going another 8k-10k and find out you need them after spending all that money. $1500 is a ok price, but not all that great if they aren't even replacing all the bearings. It also depends on what brand gears they are putting in, you don't want cheap ones that whine and don't have a long life expectancy.
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From: New Baden IL
I seriously thought about swapping gears (I have 3:73) when I put 315/75/16's on. However, once I had the speedometer ratio changed, the truck drove almost as good as the original configuration (shifting characteristics). Then I added the DP Tuner with live tuning and never looked back.
I do a mix of town & highway driving so the 3:73's give me the best of both worlds. I also tow a 31ft TT ( over 7500 lbs) with NO problems. Did I mention I like to drive fast (when applied properly).
I do a mix of town & highway driving so the 3:73's give me the best of both worlds. I also tow a 31ft TT ( over 7500 lbs) with NO problems. Did I mention I like to drive fast (when applied properly).
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From: Mountain House, CA
USAF CCM do you tow in OD? Could you tell a difference in live tuning? I have similar mods and only tow a 5500 lb TT. T keep my EGT's in check I have to be out of OD under 65mph. I have 3:73 gears. Do you have similar issues?
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thanks for the input guys. while reading the posts on the Excursion I was about ready to go with 4.30's. Good thing I kept reading. The only thing though, he really didn't mention if the 4.10's were worth it. I do not plan on going any larger than 35" tires, so the 4.30's are out. I have thinking about injectors as well (Stage 2). One or the other, can't do both. But I do alot of 4 wheeling, so I don't want to sacrifice that. Bottom line is I really want to feel the difference with any modification I am doing. If I don't feel a decent increase in performance, then I don't want to waste my money. On the other hand, I don't want to be stranded offroad either.
USAF, how did you have your speedometer ratio changed? Was that just a matter of recalibrating the pcm or something else?
USAF, how did you have your speedometer ratio changed? Was that just a matter of recalibrating the pcm or something else?
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From: UT
Probably not worth it unless you go larger than 35". I am running 4.30's with my 37's, actual height 36.6" and I really like them. On the freeway at 70 mph I run 2050 rpms and at 75 mph more like 2350 rpms. IMO, I would always change out all the bearings when you do a gear swap, since nothing worse than going another 8k-10k and find out you need them after spending all that money. $1500 is a ok price, but not all that great if they aren't even replacing all the bearings. It also depends on what brand gears they are putting in, you don't want cheap ones that whine and don't have a long life expectancy.
Do you have a brand you prefer that don't whine and break?
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Well, I haven't tried them all but I have access to many of them and I personally settled on G/2 since they are made by the OEM manufacturer. No detectable whine like some, but then again with the 7.3L noise I don't know if I could hear them anyway. I pulled them after 10k to change fluid and the wear patterns looked good and normal.
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From: UT
Thanks Clay. I see G2 offers two version Performance & OEM. I assume you went with the OEM? They show two rear axles being offered for the SD 10.5 & Dana 60. Upfront just the Dana 50.
The 10.5" has one "long"(Performance) and one "short(OEM)" available, and just one version for the Dana 60. The performance "long" must use the 10.5" Master Kit.
I thought all SD's came with the 10.5" except for the dually, maybe it has the Dana 60??
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
The 10.5" has one "long"(Performance) and one "short(OEM)" available, and just one version for the Dana 60. The performance "long" must use the 10.5" Master Kit.
I thought all SD's came with the 10.5" except for the dually, maybe it has the Dana 60??
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
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You should have a Dana 50 up front and the Sterling in the rear. Here are the part numbers you will need.
D/S660319-5
G/22-2046-430L
G/235-2046
G/235-2054
D/S660319-5
G/22-2046-430L
G/235-2046
G/235-2054
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From: UT
Clay,
Does G2 make a 4.10 for the Dana 50 front?
By the comparison chart, a 4.10 ratio should put me back to the same ratio w/315's as stock tires w/3.73's.
I wonder if a 4.30 would be better since I drive short distance, but with a lot of hills?
Does G2 make a 4.10 for the Dana 50 front?
By the comparison chart, a 4.10 ratio should put me back to the same ratio w/315's as stock tires w/3.73's.
I wonder if a 4.30 would be better since I drive short distance, but with a lot of hills?