Not working door handle fix
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
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Nah, I did it on the driver-side door of a buddy's truck, but that's as far as my motivation went - his passenger-side door will likely never get converted, same with my passengers-side door as well (I got a '94 door on my bricknose cab, so I got the cable mess with it).
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 205
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Update on the door handle repair
Just a quick note about the repair (see first post). It's been over a year since I did the "cable shortening mod" and I'm happy to say that it's still holding up!
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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There are two other issue with the door mechanic. The sheet metal under the door handle pulls crack and break. They can be repaired by re welding the cracks and adding a reinforcement washer. The other fix for the cable is to bend the cable attachment tab out a little farther and adding a tach weld to keep it from bending again. Just my .02 cents as i've repaired four of these door issues.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
There are two other issue with the door mechanic. The sheet metal under the door handle pulls crack and break. They can be repaired by re welding the cracks and adding a reinforcement washer. The other fix for the cable is to bend the cable attachment tab out a little farther and adding a tach weld to keep it from bending again. Just my .02 cents as i've repaired four of these door issues.
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 65
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From: Northern MS
Great thread!
Wish I'd found before I spent so much time digging into my problem
.
I too finally figured out that the inside door latch control just wasn't pulling the cable release far enough. I noticed on my mechanism that two of the riveted rotation points were worn which adds a fair amount of slop when the lever is pulled. I think this extra play is what caused my problem, but possibly some cable-stretch as well. All I did was to bend the tab (that anchors the plastic outer sheath retainer) away from the mechanism to effectively tighten up the inner cable, and now the door opens easily
. From reading the posts, it looks as though I may be doing this again in the future if that tab bends back towards the mechanism.
96 F150 SC 4x4 5.0 Eddie Bauer
. I too finally figured out that the inside door latch control just wasn't pulling the cable release far enough. I noticed on my mechanism that two of the riveted rotation points were worn which adds a fair amount of slop when the lever is pulled. I think this extra play is what caused my problem, but possibly some cable-stretch as well. All I did was to bend the tab (that anchors the plastic outer sheath retainer) away from the mechanism to effectively tighten up the inner cable, and now the door opens easily
. From reading the posts, it looks as though I may be doing this again in the future if that tab bends back towards the mechanism.96 F150 SC 4x4 5.0 Eddie Bauer
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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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