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Ok about 4 months ago i switch to Rotella ELC coolant and new water pump with a 203* stat, did a good rad and engine block flush and installed a new 203* thermostat. When i drive around on base temp stays at 190...the second I start romping on it, hit the highway speeds of 40+ she'll get to 210-220 and takes it awhile to come back down to 190. This is in STOCK tune with the Texas heat. Im leaning more towards fan clutch, I havnt heard the "roar" in a long time. Last time i heard it was way early in the morning with temps about 70, cold engine...started it up and took off and heard it roar for a second or two but thats it. I just checked the clutch and there is no wobble or movment, and it feels tight. It feels the same wheather I spin it on a cold engine or a hot engine. Whats ya'lls thought before I go changing a radiator?
Your profile says Lake Geneva, WI. What part of Texas are you in and what are the outside temps? What are you using to monitor engine coolant temps? Have you got an aftermarket gauge installed? I can hear my roar in the afternoons when it's over 100 deg. My engine oil temp easily gets up to 208 or so with stock tunes and a stock thermostat in the Texas summer. Add a few degrees up to the 203 stat before it opens and it sounds like you're in the right ballpark to me.
I don't have a water temp gauge yet, but I do have an oil temp gauge and my oil will run in the 210 to 220 degree range if I pull something or romp it pretty good for a distance, otherwise the oil stays below 210 degrees. I need to get a water temp gauge and some other gauges.
Killeen TX, temps today where 94 ish? Ive got aftermarket gauge installed, and once I thought it was gonna meltdown so i pulled over and hit it with a laser temp gun on the pump and it read 219, gauge was dead nuts on the 220 line. I havnt heard my fan clutch so thats prolly it! Also im reading water temp not oil....i dont even want to think what my oil temps are
Water temp readings are too flaky unless you've got an actual sending unit installed. If you're relying on the OBDII port to give you Engine Coolant Temps, I'm not sure I'd trust it. (That's the reason I watch EOT). I'll see what my ECT reads tomorrow afternoon (if I remember) and let you know. Meanwhile, watch your ECT readings in the morning with a cold engine and see if they make any sense. If you've got the ability, also check EOT.
Ok about 4 months ago i switch to Rotella ELC coolant and new water pump with a 203* stat, did a good rad and engine block flush and installed a new 203* thermostat. When i drive around on base temp stays at 190...the second I start romping on it, hit the highway speeds of 40+ she'll get to 210-220 and takes it awhile to come back down to 190. This is in STOCK tune with the Texas heat. Im leaning more towards fan clutch, I havnt heard the "roar" in a long time. Last time i heard it was way early in the morning with temps about 70, cold engine...started it up and took off and heard it roar for a second or two but thats it. I just checked the clutch and there is no wobble or movment, and it feels tight. It feels the same wheather I spin it on a cold engine or a hot engine. Whats ya'lls thought before I go changing a radiator?
I always suggest that people check the cap to see if the system is holding pressure.
If you squeeze the upper radiator hose, you should not hear air purging and then sucking back in at the cap area.
gauge sensor is on the side port of the water pump, ive got the AE for it....ill check oil temps 2morrow and ill check the cap for sure. last i checked the cap(lastweek?) i took the cap off and heard the whooshin sound it makes when you release the psi...but ill def check it the other way. thanks guys! ill be back in here 2morrow
If you do a search you'll find two things that haven't been talked about yet. The first is a common problem and that is a radiator clogged with dirt, debris, bugs, and/or dried up mud. Removing the radiator and pressure washing the outside will clean it up good.
The other is a post showing how to check your fan clutch using a timing light.
Mine overheated on me this July, I wasn't hearing the fan clutch either. I replaced it and now I hear it all the time, so that was my problem. I took a chance that was it since my radiator was clean inside and out. But the OE clutches are kind of expensive and if you can it'd be best to check it before buying something you might not need. I was out of town so I had to give it my best guess.
gauge sensor is on the side port of the water pump, ive got the AE for it....ill check oil temps 2morrow and ill check the cap for sure. last i checked the cap(lastweek?) i took the cap off and heard the whooshin sound it makes when you release the psi...but ill def check it the other way. thanks guys! ill be back in here 2morrow
If you heard the pressure release (whoosing sound) when removing the cap then it's holding pressure fine.
I just wanted to toss that out there as a possible cause because it's happened to me. I would look at what Keith suggested next.
Ok update, checked the radiator for dirt, bugs...ect I didnt see anything that would look like a build up. After a light drive (speeds of 40mph and under) i got out hit the waterpump with a thermal gun and it read 189, looked at my gauge and it was few degrees off. I hooked up the AE and engine coolant temps under the (engine coolant temp input) said 197 with engine oil temp of 192.
Went for a WOT drive, in AE engine coolant temp hit 331<--not a typo just reading what the AE showed and engine oil temp of 221, my coolant temp gauge in the cab was approaching 220 so i backed off, it seems my cooling system cant cool the engine while at 80mph+??? even with a bad fan clutch, it should still cool it plenty at those speeds and it is about 90 degrees out today.
So i took out the radiator and just finished cleaning it, putting it back in 2morrow and will go for another drive....will update with results then.
I recall a few members here having to replace their radiators becasue of similar problems. Radiators would flow a garden hose through them no problem but where actually restricted enough to cause overheating problems.
radiators arnt to bad...lill over $200 I think.
Ft Hood huh? I was in 553 CSB, 13th coscom from 93 to 98....I really miss Texas. What unit you in?
ok got it all back together drove a few HOURs with little to no improvments with washing it. Temps still reach 220 at WOT but have noticed it cools down faster, just driving around town it stays at 190. Its pretty "cool" out today in the killeen TX area today so im sure thats why lol. So what do you suggest I do first...fan clutch or radiator? Thanks guys
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Went for a WOT drive, in AE engine coolant temp hit 331<--not a typo just reading what the AE showed and engine oil temp of 221, my coolant temp gauge in the cab was approaching 220 so i backed off, it seems my cooling system cant cool the engine while at 80mph+??? ....
AE doesn't read Engine Coolant temp accurately so ignore that reading.
Did you check the fan clutch with a timing light like Keith suggested?
I agree, even with a bad clutch fan, the engine should run cool at highway speeds (as long as you aren't towing anything...). It's beginning to sound like your radiator has some internal blockage and isn't flowing correctly.
havnt checked it with a timming light...dont have one and need the money for the radiator...should I go stock OEM or alum? saw a few alum ones on fleebay for $219! but im not sure if they would last long in the truck for that price lol