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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 06:32 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Fordbronco69
havnt checked it with a timming light...dont have one and need the money for the radiator...should I go stock OEM or alum? saw a few alum ones on fleebay for $219! but im not sure if they would last long in the truck for that price lol
Xenon Timing Light

Edit: The timing light above won't work. You need an adjustable kind. Even then....how do you get the light to trigger? I guess this is only for gas engines????
Is there a way to get the light to strobe to match the RPM? If so, here is the timing light model...

http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-...nce-40963.html

They also are on craigslist for fairly cheap as well. Check the yard sale section. That's where I see them all the time. Here is a post with the testing procedure.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...an-clutch.html
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #17  
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[/URL]
Originally Posted by Fordbronco69
havnt checked it with a timming light...dont have one and need the money for the radiator...should I go stock OEM or alum? saw a few alum ones on fleebay for $219! but im not sure if they would last long in the truck for that price lol
I stock radiator is aluminum, parts guy sells OEM aluminium radiators for about $250 parts guy ED link to radiator

Another benefit of adding a new radiator is you can get one with an oil to water transmission cooler, if I remember right your truck is a 2000, I know mine only came from the factory with an oil to air transmission cooler...then in 02 or 3 ford added to OTW cooler.

if you don't want to wait for shipping( it might be kind of big anyway) autozone has them for $235 NOT OEM linkey you could just swing down to the corner of 10th and veterans memorial and pick one up
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 08:22 PM
  #18  
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i meant all alum steve haha sorry should have said that earlier.....

FORD F-SERIES 2001 2002 7.3L V8 ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR: eBay Motors (item 270560081923 end time Sep-04-10 12:52:57 PDT)

my truck is a 2000 and right now has the tranny cooler line in the bottom of the rad..that would mean oil to water cooling right?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 08:54 PM
  #19  
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Before you spend > 200 on a new radiator, shouldn't you try putting in a new $12 thermostat from napa or autozone. Perhaps (like me) you got a bad 203* stat?

I had very similar symptoms to you, so I swapped back to my original thermostat and all is good. I plan to get a new one when I have time, but putting the old thermostat back in solved the problem - my 203* was bad I guess.

I put the 203* and my stock (195 I guess) in boiling water, and at a full rapid boil of 212*, the 203* stat is barely open at all, while my original one is fully open.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 10:13 PM
  #20  
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hmmmm......gab....i like ur thinking! i did switch out my 203 stat cuz it was bad with a new 203 stat a while ago so this one isnt that old but heh...ya never know it might be bad...ill pik up on at the zone 2morrow its the 190 degree long stem correct?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 10:45 PM
  #21  
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I think "stock" is 195 or 192 deg. But yes, it's the long stem I believe. But they should have the right part by year of your engine too.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 10:57 PM
  #22  
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Here's the test.

Originally Posted by danskool View Post
...This help? found this out of my Service Manual ...Fan Clutch Test

Spin the fan blade (8600) by hand. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows:

Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement
Use a suitable marker to mark the water pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312).
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
Install a throttle adjusting tool.
Connect the Digital Photoelectric Tachometer.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.

Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved.
Operate the strobe light at 4,320 rpm for 5.4L and 6.8L engines and 3600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines, and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the strobe light at the fan blade bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
The fan blade speed must not be greater than 1,900 rpm on 5.4L engines and 2,000 rpm on 6.8L and 7.3L engines.
Turn the engine off.
If the fan blade speed was greater than 1,900 rpm (on 5.4L) (on diesel engines and 6.8L, 2,000 rpm), install a new fan clutch (8A616).

Fan Clutch Test—Maximum Speed Requirement
Perform Steps 1 through 5 of the Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement.
NOTE: The temperature of the air hitting the fan clutch should be above 96°C (205°F) for maximum fan speed.

Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200). This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed.
Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position.
Adjust the strobe to 4,320 rpm for 5.4L and 6.8L engines and 3,600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.

Start the engine and adjust the engine speed until the strobe light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the strobe light at the fan blade retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
If the fan blade speed is less than 3,600 rpm on 5.4L engines and 3,500 rpm on 6.8L engines, 2,850 rpm on 7.3L engines, install a new fan clutch.
 
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