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I've had very good results with the weld the nut to the broken bolt method. I think the combo of heat and twist really frees it up. Never failed me once.
I have never had such luck with that idea, especially it there is not enough of the bolt to weld to.
Jack up truck, do all the safety stuff, chalk the rear, jack stand ect.... remove tire in the way.
Get a set of REAL GOOD drill bits, I mean real good, makes it all so easy.
Center punch the broken bolt, in the center is real important.
Start drilling with a small bit, go all the way thru, you should have some space behind the bolt. Do not brake the drill bit, another long story. Drill straight and take your time.
Graduate up the sizes till you are almost to the original bolt size. 7/16 or 9 1/6 can't remember. Remove as much old bolt material as possible with getting into the factory threads.
If you try to "easy-out" it, make sure you have a REAL good set, I broke and easy out bit off in one once, another real long story.
An easy out bit will work if you have drilled in the center and have removed alot of the old bolt material.
If you mess up the threads you can re-tap it or use helicoils, up to you, I have had to do both, with no follow on issues. If you re-tap, weld the tap into a socket so you can get some torque on it, and tap it straight.
When it comes time to replace the hdwr, upgrade to grade 8 and use alot of anti-seize compound. Are you putting on headers or changing exhaust manifolds gaskets?
Jeff Bronco Graveyard has some thick gaskets that awesome. Just have no grease on your hands, it will cause you to burn up a new gasket in a heartbeat.
I know its long winded but hope it helps, just an old 101st guy helping an 82nd
A.I.R.B.O.R.N.E. trooper right?
Just removed two broken exhaust manifold bolts from a tractor friday. Successfully! Soaked them down with pb blaster and center punched middle of broken bolt used Left Hand Drill bits to drill out. First bolt drilled with smaller then bigger bit and used an easy out to remove. Second bolt drilled out with the smaller LH bit and before it punched all the way through it backed the broken bolt out. Doest happen every time with the LH bits but when it does it makes u look like u know what ur doing. I think I was just lucky. Maybe the LH bits will work for U?
Just removed two broken exhaust manifold bolts from a tractor friday. Successfully! Soaked them down with pb blaster and center punched middle of broken bolt used Left Hand Drill bits to drill out. First bolt drilled with smaller then bigger bit and used an easy out to remove. Second bolt drilled out with the smaller LH bit and before it punched all the way through it backed the broken bolt out. Doest happen every time with the LH bits but when it does it makes u look like u know what ur doing. I think I was just lucky. Maybe the LH bits will work for U?
I have never had such luck with that idea, especially it there is not enough of the bolt to weld to.
Jack up truck, do all the safety stuff, chalk the rear, jack stand ect.... remove tire in the way.
Get a set of REAL GOOD drill bits, I mean real good, makes it all so easy.
Center punch the broken bolt, in the center is real important.
Start drilling with a small bit, go all the way thru, you should have some space behind the bolt. Do not brake the drill bit, another long story. Drill straight and take your time.
Graduate up the sizes till you are almost to the original bolt size. 7/16 or 9 1/6 can't remember. Remove as much old bolt material as possible with getting into the factory threads.
If you try to "easy-out" it, make sure you have a REAL good set, I broke and easy out bit off in one once, another real long story.
An easy out bit will work if you have drilled in the center and have removed alot of the old bolt material.
If you mess up the threads you can re-tap it or use helicoils, up to you, I have had to do both, with no follow on issues. If you re-tap, weld the tap into a socket so you can get some torque on it, and tap it straight.
When it comes time to replace the hdwr, upgrade to grade 8 and use alot of anti-seize compound. Are you putting on headers or changing exhaust manifolds gaskets?
Jeff Bronco Graveyard has some thick gaskets that awesome. Just have no grease on your hands, it will cause you to burn up a new gasket in a heartbeat.
I know its long winded but hope it helps, just an old 101st guy helping an 82nd
A.I.R.B.O.R.N.E. trooper right?
Yep Yep, they are 3/8 bolts so the biggest drill bit you would want to use is 5/16 before tapping.
I have never had such luck with that idea, especially it there is not enough of the bolt to weld to.
Jack up truck, do all the safety stuff, chalk the rear, jack stand ect.... remove tire in the way.
Get a set of REAL GOOD drill bits, I mean real good, makes it all so easy.
Center punch the broken bolt, in the center is real important.
Start drilling with a small bit, go all the way thru, you should have some space behind the bolt. Do not brake the drill bit, another long story. Drill straight and take your time.
Graduate up the sizes till you are almost to the original bolt size. 7/16 or 9 1/6 can't remember. Remove as much old bolt material as possible with getting into the factory threads.
If you try to "easy-out" it, make sure you have a REAL good set, I broke and easy out bit off in one once, another real long story.
An easy out bit will work if you have drilled in the center and have removed alot of the old bolt material.
If you mess up the threads you can re-tap it or use helicoils, up to you, I have had to do both, with no follow on issues. If you re-tap, weld the tap into a socket so you can get some torque on it, and tap it straight.
When it comes time to replace the hdwr, upgrade to grade 8 and use alot of anti-seize compound. Are you putting on headers or changing exhaust manifolds gaskets?
Jeff Bronco Graveyard has some thick gaskets that awesome. Just have no grease on your hands, it will cause you to burn up a new gasket in a heartbeat.
I know its long winded but hope it helps, just an old 101st guy helping an 82nd
A.I.R.B.O.R.N.E. trooper right?
the best way is to use a 1/16 welding rod called extraction rod. It's builds up real high and then you can use standard 7018 or.6013 to finish welding the nut to it.
Weather you can grip the broken stud with a vise grip or an easy out, I've had great luck heating the surrounding area with a torch then freezing the stud with a can of air duster held upside down or this Welcome to: Loctite® Freeze & Release It has seriously worked every single time I've used it. Amazing.
I've had great luck welding a nut to the stud as well.
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