Impossible?
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From: Long Island, NY
Impossible?
I just put a 12 inch lift springs in the rear of my truck and would like to know if there is any way I could run it with u joints and not switch over to a CV and still get a smooth ride. The back drive shaft is at about 15*.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
No!
Well not impossible, but it would burn out the ujoint in no time at that angle
Run a cv rotate up rear diff as needed and read this and you'll understand
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...e-shaft-2.html
And the while your at it put in one of these
Well not impossible, but it would burn out the ujoint in no time at that angle
Run a cv rotate up rear diff as needed and read this and you'll understand
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...e-shaft-2.html
And the while your at it put in one of these
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
No!
Well not impossible, but it would burn out the ujoint in no time at that angle
Run a cv rotate up rear diff as needed and read this and you'll understand
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...e-shaft-2.html
And the while your at it put in one of these
Well not impossible, but it would burn out the ujoint in no time at that angle
Run a cv rotate up rear diff as needed and read this and you'll understand
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...e-shaft-2.html
And the while your at it put in one of these
I do plan on setting things up the way you say but I need to get this done so I can use the truck now with it RWD. When I get the transfer case in I will get all the drive shafts done.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,014
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From: Long Island, NY
Easy people. I need the truck now. Cant wait to get the transfer case. I am going to have to set it up the way it is now so I can use the truck then set it up again when I get the TC and the funds for the drive shafts. A lazy person would not do this twice and a dumb person would not be able to figure a way around the problem.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Ok I'll help you one more time...
My driveshaft ran me around $800 including shaft,cv, diff yoke and mounting flange on t case. All parts were new and a combination of sealed spicer 1350's in cv and greaseable 1350 on diff to be able to push dirt and mud out. Not cheap buts it's exactly what I needed.
Now I was in a wrecker one day having mainly new superdutys and dodge stuff
when I found a mint 1350 cv driveshaft with a 1410 slip yoke laying on the ground. I ended up buying it for my bro who needed one for his truck on 49 iroks. Ended up getting for 100$ and it turned out to be a front shaft on a 99- early 2000ish superduty. Shaft was too long and had to be cut down but no big deal. I think this is probably your best bet. You'll have to figure out a mounting flange that works for your application unless the superduty one works for you
My driveshaft ran me around $800 including shaft,cv, diff yoke and mounting flange on t case. All parts were new and a combination of sealed spicer 1350's in cv and greaseable 1350 on diff to be able to push dirt and mud out. Not cheap buts it's exactly what I needed.
Now I was in a wrecker one day having mainly new superdutys and dodge stuff
when I found a mint 1350 cv driveshaft with a 1410 slip yoke laying on the ground. I ended up buying it for my bro who needed one for his truck on 49 iroks. Ended up getting for 100$ and it turned out to be a front shaft on a 99- early 2000ish superduty. Shaft was too long and had to be cut down but no big deal. I think this is probably your best bet. You'll have to figure out a mounting flange that works for your application unless the superduty one works for you
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