Timing/Distributor Issue
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Brusly, LA
Timing/Distributor Issue
I was changing my ignition control module and I pulled out my distributor and oh crap... I forgot to mark it. So I put it back in and marked it. Anyways, I attached my new ICM and then put the distributor back in, hoping it was right. I started it up and it was running rough. So I turned the distributor until it sounded right. It seems to be running fine, but I'm in Austin, TX and 8 hours from home. Is this something I should be OK with or should I have the timing reset by a mechanic. And by the way, what would be involved with having a mechanic reset my timing?
Another issue, the two screw holes on the distributor, where the ICM connects to, is stripped out. The ICM doesn't seem to be firmly attached. Should I just get a new distributor? Is there anything else I can do?
Oh yeah, it's a 86 F-150 302 V8 FI
Another issue, the two screw holes on the distributor, where the ICM connects to, is stripped out. The ICM doesn't seem to be firmly attached. Should I just get a new distributor? Is there anything else I can do?
Oh yeah, it's a 86 F-150 302 V8 FI
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 15
To set timing: Warm-up engine, disconnect SPOUT connector, set timing to about 10 degrees BTDC using timing light. Plug SPOUT connector back in.
Unplugging the SPOUT (SerialPulseOUTput) sets it back to base fixed timing, taking the computer out of the equation so the timing can be set manually.
The bad news - The stripped-out screw holes are a big problem. That module sinks its heat to the body of the distributor, that's also why heat transfer grease is used between the module and the body. The distributor body becomes the heatsink for the module. Without a good tight thermal connection between the two, the module will overheat and fail.
I don't remember if there is enough clearance/space inside the distributor to use longer screws, and then put nuts and split-ring lockwashers inside?
Otherwise, I think it means a new distributor.
Unplugging the SPOUT (SerialPulseOUTput) sets it back to base fixed timing, taking the computer out of the equation so the timing can be set manually.
The bad news - The stripped-out screw holes are a big problem. That module sinks its heat to the body of the distributor, that's also why heat transfer grease is used between the module and the body. The distributor body becomes the heatsink for the module. Without a good tight thermal connection between the two, the module will overheat and fail.
I don't remember if there is enough clearance/space inside the distributor to use longer screws, and then put nuts and split-ring lockwashers inside?
Otherwise, I think it means a new distributor.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 207
From: Washington
The bad news - The stripped-out screw holes are a big problem. That module sinks its heat to the body of the distributor, that's also why heat transfer grease is used between the module and the body. The distributor body becomes the heatsink for the module. Without a good tight thermal connection between the two, the module will overheat and fail.
I don't remember if there is enough clearance/space inside the distributor to use longer screws, and then put nuts and split-ring lockwashers inside?
Otherwise, I think it means a new distributor.
I don't remember if there is enough clearance/space inside the distributor to use longer screws, and then put nuts and split-ring lockwashers inside?
Otherwise, I think it means a new distributor.
<O
</OGo to a computer repair shop and buy a used CPU heat sink and some thermal heat sink compound. Apply heat sink compound between the two and clamp them together for the drive home
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease
<O
</OYou can just use a clamp to get home then drill and bolt them together when you get the time later on. Place the heat sink away from engine heat and in the airflow to cool.
<O
</ODon’t attempt the 8 hr drive without a good heat sink on the IGN module.
Good Luck
Jim
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 207
From: Washington
[SIZE="4"]I had a new idea.
Due to the heat issue with mounting the IGN module on the distributor Ford moved the IGN module. On later trucks it is mounted to a heat sink on the left inner fender near the hood hinge attach point. This heat sink is drilled and tapped with the same mounting holes to mount the IGN module. If you can find one of these heat sinks at a junk yard it would be an easy long term fix.
In the photo below I used one of these heat sink to mount a GM 4 pin module. In the end I ending up using a computer heat sink as it had better fins to draw the heat away from the IGN module.
[/SIZE
.
Due to the heat issue with mounting the IGN module on the distributor Ford moved the IGN module. On later trucks it is mounted to a heat sink on the left inner fender near the hood hinge attach point. This heat sink is drilled and tapped with the same mounting holes to mount the IGN module. If you can find one of these heat sinks at a junk yard it would be an easy long term fix.
In the photo below I used one of these heat sink to mount a GM 4 pin module. In the end I ending up using a computer heat sink as it had better fins to draw the heat away from the IGN module.
[/SIZE
.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 53
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From: Brusly, LA
I appreciate all the help.
I put a new distibutor in and set the timing (had to buy a timing light). It seems to be running as good as it was before my Ignitioin Control Module went out.
Since I had to reuse the ICM that I bought yesterday on the new (rebuilt) distributor. I didn't have any of that white paste that you rub on it before attaching it. The parts place said I should use some diaeletric grease, the stuff you put in spark plug boots, on the ICM. Is this cool or am I screwed because I already put it on there?
Also the reason I think the ICM went out is because of the high heat here in Austin, TX plus my truck is overheating at idle or in slow traffic. See my new thread: Fan Clutch - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Thanks again. And to JimsRebel, I will definately consider putting on a heat sink later. You advice came when I was working on my truck and I just got back inside.
I put a new distibutor in and set the timing (had to buy a timing light). It seems to be running as good as it was before my Ignitioin Control Module went out.
Since I had to reuse the ICM that I bought yesterday on the new (rebuilt) distributor. I didn't have any of that white paste that you rub on it before attaching it. The parts place said I should use some diaeletric grease, the stuff you put in spark plug boots, on the ICM. Is this cool or am I screwed because I already put it on there?
Also the reason I think the ICM went out is because of the high heat here in Austin, TX plus my truck is overheating at idle or in slow traffic. See my new thread: Fan Clutch - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Thanks again. And to JimsRebel, I will definately consider putting on a heat sink later. You advice came when I was working on my truck and I just got back inside.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 207
From: Washington
A lot of people think the diaelectric grease is "good enough"... but I would not use it in a hot area like TX.
I moved my IGN module into the air flow and off the hot engine. Plus I have a "ride along spare".
.
I moved my IGN module into the air flow and off the hot engine. Plus I have a "ride along spare".
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 133
Likes: 1
From: TX
diaeletric grease is NOT the same as thermal compund/grease for the heatsink. I think by moving it in the pics you will do a world of good for your truck.
hope you made it home safely!
hope you made it home safely!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
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From: Lost
Nice heatsink Jim! I might have to rig up something similar, but a bit more elaborate, for the custom ignition system in one of my RX7's. It uses 3 of those GM 4 pins and 3 seperate coils. Shortly after I got the car, all 3 modules failed, due to having been packed with dielectric grease, and bolted to 22g sheet metal.......
Currently, I'm using 3/16" stainless plate + artic silver 5, and have them out in the airflow. They still get a bit warmer than I like.......
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