I recently had a miss that threw a code showing trouble on the RH side (passengers side) and my mechanic said he'd replaced many of these things but never a LH side........My engine runns fine now but I'm worried that the LH side will cause trouble soon.......any thoughts? which side of YOURS went first?

 

My right side went first (Driver Side). Went ahead and changed them both.

 

I have no clue which side went out on mine. When I had the problem and got the code, I just did both sides.

Stewart

 

For me it was the passenger side that came loose. The driver's side was fine but I fixed it anyway. It was an expensive lesson for me too because I had to call two tow trucks. (1 for my truck and another for my fifth wheel trailer)

The other thing I learned is that a 2000 Dodge Cummins can't tow my trailer. It got about 20 miles before we had to pull over and call for another tow truck. The 2006 Duramax that showed up next seemed to have enough power to do the job, but just barely.

 

Anyone else??

 

Drivers side went out first. I did the .50 mod on both sides.

 

Passenger side for me

 

I don't think that there's a side that is more prone to go out over the other. I've helped two people with this problem and one was the passenger side, the other was the driver's side.

 

How long of a job is it to do both sides?

 

I can get to the driver's side harness in about 8-10 minutes. The passenger side in 4-6 minutes. This is because I've done it quite a few times. I plan on helping my neighbor do this very thing this coming weekend. It will probably take about an hour total because we'll be taking some breaks for refreshments.

 

Wow, I was always under the impression you had to move things and use bad words to get this one done. Sounds like it might be something even I can do, with proper hydration of course.

 

Nah, it's pretty simple. Although, some choice words have been spoken.

Start by removing your IC pipes and set them aside. Assuming you have a stock airbox set up... remove the rubber air intake tube, the junction piece for the CCV and then the other air intake tube connected to your turbo. Disconnect the main wire bundle and your driver's side valve cover will be exposed. The very back bolt will be the hardest on this side. I was able to loosen that bolt with a long 13mm socket and short extension on a 3/8" ratchet. Once loose, stick your fingers back there and turn the bolt out by hand. Then pick it up from the garage floor when you drop it. (I drop it about half the time...)

When you re-install the driver's side cover, put that back bolt in first but leave it just a little bit loose. Then start all the other bolts and tighten them in sequence. The bracket that holds the main wiring bundle and CCV adapter slides over a couple of stud/bolts so make sure you put those back in the correct spot. I leave the nuts that secure that bracket a little bit loose until I have the air intake boots all connected up and then tighten them up last. Just works a little easier for me. When re-installing the IC pipe on the driver's side, make sure you orient the tube so it isn't touching the back of your Power steering pump fitting. You can twist it a little bit so it easily clears and then tighten up the IC boots and it will stay in place.

The passenger side is a bit easier. (I think so at least...)
Pull the IC tube and set it aside. Disconnect the electrical connector to your MAP sensor that is mounted on a bracket at your A/C evaporator housing. Then use a torx and unscrew the whole sensor and lay it over on the spider while you work. The heater hoses can just be moved out of the way, you do not have to disconnect them. The two plastic heater hose brackets just pull off the stud/bolts on the valve cover. There is another stud/bolt just behind your A/C compressor. Take care when loosening the top nut because your dipstick tube has a bracket under that nut and if it sticks you could bend the tube. You might want to use a pair of needle nose vise grips to hold the dipstick tube bracket while you loosen the top nut. The two bolts on the lower part of the valve cover at cylinders 5 and 7 are tough to get from the top. Just reach in through the fender well and you can get them easier from there. I normally pull my wheel off on that side so I can reach in there easier but I have also done it with the wheel on as well (4x4 truck).

Reverse order for install and you are done!

Hope this helps.

 

My passenger side went first, replaced both since I was in there. Thanks brotherhood for the help yet again. Knew exactly what the problem was when I explained it.

 

Thanks for the great explanation gchavez! Your tips and hints will sure make it easier for a first-timer in there like myself.

 

No problem Ken, glad to help.
While you are in there, you should take a moment to check the torque on your injectors and rocker arms. Do a search and you'll find some good info from other threads. Mine weren't loose but I hear that lot of other guys did find loose bolts when they checked their bolts.

Might be a great time to change out your glow plugs as well (if you think they might be on their last leg). I have a brand new set of Motorcraft plugs waiting to be installed as soon as it cools off here in the desert. I am still on my original set (254k miles) and they don't work very well. 6 of the 8 ohm within spec but they are tired or otherwise just plain worn out. It's on the 'list'...

Thank you very much for the reps!