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replacement 2bl carb.

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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:48 PM
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replacement 2bl carb.

whats a good 2bl aftermarket replacement for my stock motorcraft carb on my 390? throttle shaft is shot. they want 230.00 for a rebuilt one. thats a lot for stock, 70s tech. intake is stock, 4x4, standard shift. thanks. or does anyone have a better deal? thanks
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:58 PM
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what engine is it? I might have one or can get a good one. What about a local junkyard or Craigslist...maybe even ebay...if you could find a shop to do it you could get a rebuild kit for next to nothing and will most definately come out cheaper.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 12:10 AM
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If your rig is exempt from emissions testing and visual inspections, I'd go with an Autolite 2100.. OEM on mid-60s Ford cars and trucks. I can find them all day at swap meets from $10 to $20 in useable condition. A rebuild kit has very detailed instruction and is only $15.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 06:28 AM
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$10 to $20 in useable condition?
Damn. Wish we had swap meets here.....

I bought the only motorcraft 2150 i could find in the area, off craigsL. (posted wanting one) for that, but is been sitting soaking in pb blaster and carb cleaner for a month, trying to get the throttle plate shaft un-rusted stuck shut...

I was trying to find one like on my 250, that has the metering rod assembly that opens with acceleration/WOT, it runs a lot more economical at low speeds(because it blocks those passages--the ones I have from broncs that don't have it, they just have open passages there and engine vacuum pulls what it needs through at all times)

is the Autolite 2100 the same basic design/setup as a Motorcraft 2100?

G.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:53 AM
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There haven't been many "technological advances" in 2-barrel carburetors in the past few decades. Some guys do go with a Holley 2300, but a Motorcraft 2100/2150 is an excellent carburetor when set up properly.

The cheapest solution would be to find a used factory 2-barrel with good a throttle shaft and rebuild it yourself. Some machine shops will bore and bush your original throttle body as well.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 09:11 AM
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I'm one of the one's that went with the Holley 2300 500cfm on my truck. I love it!!! My original 2150 cracked where the fuel filter screws in, then I bought the only 2100 I could find locally, rebuilt it and it didn't do any better. I had heard horror stories of people buying remanned units from parts houses saying they had to go through two, three, or four before they got a good one. So I said screw it and bought a brand new Holley from Summit. It bolted right on in place of the stock unit and ran better straight out of the box. I had to do very little tuning to it.
The only issue I've had with it (if you want to call it an issue) is the accelerator pump diaphragm leaking from gas sitting in it from me not driving it everyday. I bought a $20 fast kit with new bowl gaskets and a new diaphragm and it has been good ever since.
I give the Holley 2300 two thumbs up!
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Friesian-Bronco
$10 to $20 in useable condition?
Damn. Wish we had swap meets here.....

I bought the only motorcraft 2150 i could find in the area, off craigsL. (posted wanting one) for that, but is been sitting soaking in pb blaster and carb cleaner for a month, trying to get the throttle plate shaft un-rusted stuck shut...
...........
is the Autolite 2100 the same basic design/setup as a Motorcraft 2100?
When I say "Useable", I mean that it's not all rusted up nor parts missing but really dirty and only needing a thorough soaking and rebuild.

I think they're pretty much the same with the Moto being a more modern version. I think you'll be happily surprised with the Autolite 2V. There were several version so do your homework and then search for one on Ebay.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
If your rig is exempt from emissions testing and visual inspections, I'd go with an Autolite 2100.. OEM on mid-60s Ford cars and trucks. I can find them all day at swap meets from $10 to $20 in useable condition. A rebuild kit has very detailed instruction and is only $15.
Couldn't agree more with HIO on this one.

I just did the rebuild on my carb. Super cheap.

The most expensive part was the carb cleaner... Cost me $42 for a gallon of it, but it's easily reusable on other parts, just gotta strain it and get the crud out before you re-use.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 01:02 PM
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I wouldnt go aftermarket. 2100/2150 Motorcraft is best two barrel ever made and nobody has topped it yet, not even Holley. The engine will continue to run atleast "decent" even when the carb is way past wore out, I aint ever seen a Holley do that.

I bought a reman carb from Advance Auto Parts, I think 140 bucks is what I paid. Who ever they get their carbs from does a good job, of course I had to fine tune all the adjustments though. They have some kick to them when you get on it.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 79FordBlake
I wouldnt go aftermarket. 2100/2150 Motorcraft is best two barrel ever made and nobody has topped it yet, not even Holley. The engine will continue to run atleast "decent" even when the carb is way past wore out, I aint ever seen a Holley do that.
2X this.

I have a 2100 Autolite on my truck. Get this... It was so old and so passed its due date for a rebuild/clean that it had the fuel bowl 1/2 full with rust flakes.

My truck still ran...

My accelerator pump diaphram was COMPLETELY ROASTED. Look like it had been sitting in an oven cause it was so deformed..

The truck STILL RAN.

The valve inside the throat of the carb could barely move from how much soot and garbage gasoline was going down the throat.

And guess what... the truck STILL RAN.

They are ONE TOUGH BITCH to break. I couldn't believe how dirty the carb was once it was all cleaned up.

At first sight, you'de have thought I purposely painted my carb with flat black paint cause it was so dirty.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 02:03 PM
  #11  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Aaron-71
2X this.

I have a 2100 Autolite on my truck. Get this... It was so old and so passed its due date for a rebuild/clean that it had the fuel bowl 1/2 full with rust flakes.

My truck still ran...

My accelerator pump diaphram was COMPLETELY ROASTED. Look like it had been sitting in an oven cause it was so deformed..

The truck STILL RAN.

The valve inside the throat of the carb could barely move from how much soot and garbage gasoline was going down the throat.

And guess what... the truck STILL RAN.

They are ONE TOUGH BITCH to break. I couldn't believe how dirty the carb was once it was all cleaned up.

At first sight, you'de have thought I purposely painted my carb with flat black paint cause it was so dirty.
That's the best testimonial on the Autolites I have ever read!

and the four barrel (Autolite 4100) is just as good too.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 03:15 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
That's the best testimonial on the Autolites I have ever read!

and the four barrel (Autolite 4100) is just as good too.
I'm surprised. Lol, I thought that everyone had issues like this and their carbs still made the truck run.

Looks like I got lucky with mine. At least I know for sure that I don't have a lemon
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 03:18 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71
I'm surprised. Lol, I thought that everyone had issues like this and their carbs still made the truck run.

Looks like I got lucky with mine. At least I know for sure that I don't have a lemon
Hopefully it still runs as good when you get it all put back together.

Just playin' I'm sure it will.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 03:25 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by jsutton
Hopefully it still runs as good when you get it all put back together.

Just playin' I'm sure it will.
Lol, I hope so too. I JUST lost my Choke Piston Lever, so we'll see... I need to get another for the choke housing, but I'm sure it will run without it, or atleast I hope it will...

Otherwise it's sitting in the garage over winter... I don't want to force it to run when it literally can't haha.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71
The most expensive part was the carb cleaner... Cost me $42 for a gallon of it
Ouch, that stuff only costs $20 or so in the states. Which I still consider expensive for what it does, but it costs so much because of "environmental impact fees" or so I am told.
 
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