i have to agree.

and come to think of it, getting that dialed in even with the drums will be next to impossible. two different front to back bias's, one working at normal speed, and the other working at 6.72 times that, plus the fact that on the street it would only be wheel brakes and the rear pinion brake working. i just don't see it as working out good. i see lots of problems getting it all in sync. do one or the other and save yourself the time and hassle.

 

Well, I do appreciate your invaluable advice...

Are your axles in your truck yet? I was following your thread for a while but it kinda died a while ago.

The getting it in sync part is what I could see being the biggest issue. as I understand it though, aren't stock steering Rockwells locked in full time? I could be wrong, but that's what I thought anyways. If they are, then both pinion brakes would work.

Maybe I just get some enjoyment out of doing things that other people think are stupid, then living it up when they work well. If not, I'll take it off. If I wanted a project that was easy I'd buy a Jeep or something.

I guess the thing to do would be to decide if 4 wheel discs are enough to satisfy me. If they are, then I'll scrap the idea.

 

Here's what u do, run the drums, put pinion brakes on too, put a adjustable proportioning valve on for the pinions, drive it, slowly turn up the pressure to the pinionbrakes tell it stops how you like. Who carE what you do for brakes as long as u have them working on both axles *cough cough Dan, cough cough*

 

I thought we wanted Dan to drive around at high speeds on short roads with no brakes???

 

Only Dan would tell someone not to put on more brakes.

Regardless if it gets adjusted right, I'd rather see the truck stop then drive over something.
...unless it was really cool. xD

 

That's different Karl, I was referencing his no rear brakes on a pickup... Just poking fun is all.



Kris, isn't it always cool(looks cool anyways) when a pickup runs over a car? Well as long as your view isn't from inside the car!

 

you don't need rear brakes, they're just for looks :flipoff:
if it makes you feel better dave, i have to go through and put all new lines on teh bronco. i was gonna cap off the rear, but decided maybe i'll do it "the right way" this time, because i'll be hauling the wife and kids in this vehicle.

as to the front rock always being locked in, i think, not sure, that yes they have drive flanges in stock form. maybe i need a little clarification as to where they get their mechanical advantage from. is it more that they stop axle shafts from spinning by stopping r&p movement, or that they stop drive shafts from getting power to the axles thus preventing movement? if it stops the axle shafts htf does that agree with an open differential? idk, maybe i'm missing something here.

 

I'm pretty sure that the MA comes from the fact that for one rotation of the wheel, you would have 6.72 rotations of the pinion brake rotor through the caliper, which would result in more stopping force than a wheel brake.

I'm not 100% sure on this, but to match the amount of friction at one wheel you'd need a rotor at the wheel that has a circumference of 6.72 time that of the pinion brake. Divided between the 2 brakes on an axle, you'd only need 3.36 times, but (just a rough figure) with a 10" rotor on the pinion, you'd need two 33.6" brakes on the wheels.

I believe they work by stopping the R&P movement. Not sure about the open diff thing, but I'd think you'd probably only be able to lock up one wheel per axle. Not sure, just a theory.

 

Brakes work easier the same way the motor turns the tires easier. It takes less force to stop the wheels from turning through a gear set than through the wheel itself. You guys are making this more complicated than it has to be.

 

Hahaha, fizzics iz hard for sum peepel!

 

just to throw my .02 in there.... i was running 42" tsl's on my girl with only 5" spring and 1 1/2" body lift. she did ok off road, couldnt get much flex before it would rub, i haul 12k all the time and the weight rating of those tsl's werent good at all. i did the job but it would wonder a lot. ive got goodyear 46's on my truck now. i had to move up to 9" suspension, 3" body lift to clear them well. having to extend my front driveline, extreme drop pitman arm and new shocks. other then that, its not all that bad. weight rating at 95 psi is 13k per tire. i run at 30psi and its a rough ride. its perfect for hauling but doesnt matter how little air you run, your not getting the tires to come down.

 

id suggest installing rear disc brakes and a hydroboost system. ive also got hydraulic assist steering, but i got that when i swapped to the 42's.

 

Hydroboost is already there. Definitely planning on running the Rocks with wheel discs, the pinion brake was an after thought. I have about 10" of lift right now, so I'm thinking new front spring hanger and shackle should put me at a decent usable height until I can do a 4 link, which probably won't be soon. If not that, I'll just get custom soft springs and some good bump-stops. I'm not planning on towing with it anymore so that's not a concern.

Do you have more pics of your truck with the 46's? I couldn't find any.

 

Im glad youve finally admitted that.