Gotta get bigger!
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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Well, it looks like I'm in the market for Rocks. And that transmission/transfer I was talking about. Within about 20 minutes of each other, essentially my whole drive-train gave out on me.
Rear axle shaft sheared off all 8 bolts holding it onto the housing, something in the rear diff is gone, and my transfer case broke off the whole front output. Not the driveshaft or the U-joint. The whole output.
I guess that's my "Happy 240k miles!" gift. Or a sign from the God of 4x4.
Rear axle shaft sheared off all 8 bolts holding it onto the housing, something in the rear diff is gone, and my transfer case broke off the whole front output. Not the driveshaft or the U-joint. The whole output.
I guess that's my "Happy 240k miles!" gift. Or a sign from the God of 4x4.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
Hey hav2wheel, do you have any pics/info on the bed on your rig? I like the design of it. Also how do you like your rig on trails? From the pics/vids I've seen it seems to do just fine but everyone up here (mostly Jeep/Toyota guys) say you can't run anything that big because it won't fit (too wide).
I really Dont have many picks of the bed right now, its just a simple frame work made of 2 inch exhaust pipe with the thin dimond plate over it.. As for how I like my rig, on the trails, I love it! its about 99 inches wide at the outside edges of the tires and the wheel base is about 145 inches, but I love it. It crawls up stuff I would never think it would.. Also, Its about 6500 pounds.... so Not too heavy... best abvice I can give, Is get the front and rear overhangs cut down as much as possable.. My rear frame is cut off a inch or so behind the rear spring hangers.
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I can't say I have a specific 'mission statement' for the truck. I just want it to be an off-roader, capable in many different environments. Last night effectively ended my "keep it on the road while improving it" idea, so right now I'm thinking Rocks and 4 link. With the 4 link, I should be able to move the front axle forward a bit without extending the frame, and then in the rear I can hack off even more of the frame. I'll keep the wheelbase fairly close to where it's at right now, but cut off as much excess length as possible beyond that. I also saw a 4-link online that was done with air-bage in the rear. I really like that idea.
I really dig that bed you've got. I'm gonna do a full cage on the truck, but I'd like to build something along those lines.
I really dig that bed you've got. I'm gonna do a full cage on the truck, but I'd like to build something along those lines.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Olympia
I just ask because of the tire size you want to run. Unless you have really big trails, well it would be hard to wheel with it. I do trails in my F350 and Hav24wheel in his truck. But notice we're not on 47's. He even lowered his truck to preform better.
I think there is a good possibility you will flop the truck if your running 47's on a trail. Take it easy would be the best advise.
I think there is a good possibility you will flop the truck if your running 47's on a trail. Take it easy would be the best advise.
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Well, I got a line on a set of Rocks, so I'm just gonna plan on that. Quick question on those (didn't wanna start a thread for a dumb question), but does anyone know if and how the drum brakes that are already on them can be used? Are they usable or just complete junk? Just something to get it rolling while I save up for all the mods I'll be doing... 
Post Fiend
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From: utica il
i asked that recently, and from what i gather some folks down in floridah have ran them on the street with the drums. they were made for way heavier trucks, so you should be good, just don't expect it to stop on a dime, and expect brake fade if you drive it a lot in stop and go traffic, 4 wheel drums suck and retain heat like crazy. the big issues with ditching them are the weight and drums+mud=chitty brakes.
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Yeah that's kinda what my thought was. Not intended for a long term solution, just something to get it rolling and drivable. Will be switching to disc brakes as soon as finances allow. Spendy stuff...
Another idea on brakes... could you run wheel and pinion discs with a proportioning valve? Obviously an argument for overkill, but when it comes to brakes I'm all about over-doing it. I do not like that feeling when you realize you're not the one deciding your vehicle speed.
Anyways, with a 10k rig and 46" tires I'll take as much braking as is available.
Another idea on brakes... could you run wheel and pinion discs with a proportioning valve? Obviously an argument for overkill, but when it comes to brakes I'm all about over-doing it. I do not like that feeling when you realize you're not the one deciding your vehicle speed.
Anyways, with a 10k rig and 46" tires I'll take as much braking as is available.
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Post Fiend
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From: utica il
i'm sure it would work right with a nice aftermarket valve, but it would take a lot of testing to get it dialed in right. but once you go pinion brakes you are done with the street unless you keep the drums with it. pinion brakes would warp ultra quick with street time. just way too much heat to keep them working properly with such a small surface area for the force needed, and illegal for street use by themselves.
if it were my money, i would save up for the front disk's at least, if not 4 wheel disk's. i know it's expensive, but well worth the money if you plan to keep it on the road as well.
if it were my money, i would save up for the front disk's at least, if not 4 wheel disk's. i know it's expensive, but well worth the money if you plan to keep it on the road as well.
hahahaha!
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Olympia
I don't think the welding itself is what breaks them. I think it's the skinny pedal.
You should be fine running drums. Obviously it's better than nothing. I haven't heard of people using both pinion brakes and discs, but it does sound like a good idea. If you get it adjusted right, it would work great. I think the biggest concern with drums are that they massively suck when wet, sometimes fail when packed with mud, and are heavy as hell on a Rockwell.
What are you paying on the rocks?
You should be fine running drums. Obviously it's better than nothing. I haven't heard of people using both pinion brakes and discs, but it does sound like a good idea. If you get it adjusted right, it would work great. I think the biggest concern with drums are that they massively suck when wet, sometimes fail when packed with mud, and are heavy as hell on a Rockwell.
What are you paying on the rocks?
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Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
Drum brakes work great when they are clean.. If they didn't, I really don't think a semi would be running them all around.
Dan, a pinion brake doesn't have to be as big as a brake at the wheel, due to the mechanical advantage of it.
Kirby. It wasn't the welds breaking, it was shafts.
Dan, a pinion brake doesn't have to be as big as a brake at the wheel, due to the mechanical advantage of it.
Kirby. It wasn't the welds breaking, it was shafts.
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Since no one else minds stealing Nicks ideas....
Find quadzjrs build thread (in the tech sticky I think) and look at his brake setup. He built his own and used off the shelf parts to make it work. Seems like I remember him saying he had around $500 in it vs about $1500 for the kits.
Find quadzjrs build thread (in the tech sticky I think) and look at his brake setup. He built his own and used off the shelf parts to make it work. Seems like I remember him saying he had around $500 in it vs about $1500 for the kits.