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I have a 2001 f150 extended cab 4X2 w a 4.6. Seems the driver's side caliper speaking but it goes away when the brakes are applied. Was doing it before I replaced the pads and rotors. Looked at the old pads and it looks like the caliper wasn't relesing completely. I was told to replace the brake line as that's a common problem, but I've never heard of that before and was going to replace the caliper. Anyone else run into this? Thanks in advance.
An internally corroded brake hose usually allows brake fluid to apply the brake but doesn't let the fluid return fast enough or at all which will cause brake drag/pull and wear pads quickly. If one of the driver's caliper pads was worn more than the other, it may indicate the caliper slide pins are dry or seizing. They should be removed cleaned and reinstalled with Ford brake caliper silicone grease.
Note; when pushing caliper pistons back into the caliper to fit new pads, open the caliper's bleed screw and drain off dirty brake fluid until piston bottoms, then tighten bleed screw. You don't want to chance pushing dirty fluid back up the lines into the abs system, especially the RABS valve on some vehicles.
I have a 2001 f150 extended cab 4X2 w a 4.6. Seems the driver's side caliper speaking but it goes away when the brakes are applied. Was doing it before I replaced the pads and rotors. Looked at the old pads and it looks like the caliper wasn't relesing completely. I was told to replace the brake line as that's a common problem, but I've never heard of that before and was going to replace the caliper. Anyone else run into this? Thanks in advance.
When the wear sensor on the pad first starts hitting, the squeak tends to go away when you hit the brakes, this is normal, but it could be something stupid also, you need to check the pads. As far as the caliper not releasing (un-even pad wear), the common problem would be the calipers not sliding properly. (as already stated by Lime1GT), especially if you're in the rust belt. If you're going to do calipers, which I think is always a good idea, I'd recommend getting loaded. They come with new everything, including new pins and brackets. As far as a flex hose being bad internally, that's unlikely unless you have contaminated fluid (in which case you're totally screwed), or the flex line was pinched off at one time (vise grips) and it has an internal break. That being said, if the outside of the hose looks cracked and fatigued, you need to replace it either way. If you think the flex line is bad internally and the outside looks good, open the cap on the master, open the bleeder on the caliper, and it should gravity bleed on it's own. If it doesn't, the flex line may have an internal break that's restricting flow.
An internally corroded brake hose usually allows brake fluid to apply the brake but doesn't let the fluid return fast enough or at all which will cause brake drag/pull and wear pads quickly. If one of the driver's caliper pads was worn more than the other, it may indicate the caliper slide pins are dry or seizing. They should be removed cleaned and reinstalled with Ford brake caliper silicone grease.
Note; when pushing caliper pistons back into the caliper to fit new pads, open the caliper's bleed screw and drain off dirty brake fluid until piston bottoms, then tighten bleed screw. You don't want to chance pushing dirty fluid back up the lines into the abs system, especially the RABS valve on some vehicles.
Originally Posted by Nightmare97
When the wear sensor on the pad first starts hitting, the squeak tends to go away when you hit the brakes, this is normal, but it could be something stupid also, you need to check the pads. As far as the caliper not releasing (un-even pad wear), the common problem would be the calipers not sliding properly. (as already stated by Lime1GT), especially if you're in the rust belt. If you're going to do calipers, which I think is always a good idea, I'd recommend getting loaded. They come with new everything, including new pins and brackets. As far as a flex hose being bad internally, that's unlikely unless you have contaminated fluid (in which case you're totally screwed), or the flex line was pinched off at one time (vise grips) and it has an internal break. That being said, if the outside of the hose looks cracked and fatigued, you need to replace it either way. If you think the flex line is bad internally and the outside looks good, open the cap on the master, open the bleeder on the caliper, and it should gravity bleed on it's own. If it doesn't, the flex line may have an internal break that's restricting flow.
Thanks guys. I'll probably end up doing the caliper and the brakehose just to be safe. Also I'll replace the pins. I'd get the loaded calipers, but I already have new pads on it. May check into that anyways. Thanks again guys.